Raised roadbed construction suggestions?

[wa1lbk]

After a couple of years of indoor G-gauge operation, finally got "negotiations" through with the rest of the family for outdoor right-of-way! [:D] Main prompting for this was acquiring one of the Accucraft 3-cylinder Shays (which I've already steamed up a few times on temporary track). In addition to the Accucraft being a live-steam engine, another incentive for raised right-of-way was a freak accident nearly a year ago which laid me up 11 weeks with a broken right kneecap. [xx(] Thankfully, it healed pretty well, although I still have a bit of stiffness in the right knee; and absolutely NO ambition to kneel down if I can avoid it! (I also plan to set the Accucraft Shay up for RC operation). A good portion of the "right-of-way" is going to be running over the top of an existing hedge (which will be trimmed as necessary), parallel to an existing chain-link fence. I'm planning to use the vertical posts of the fence as at least part of my roadbed support; the main thing i'm debating at the moment is exactly what to use for track support. As presently conceived, my basic trackplan will be an extended (very narrow) "dogbone" oval; two parallel tracks supported just atop the hedge, with turnaround loops at each end. I will probably install a 2nd (short) piece of fence pipe, solid rod, or something similar to support the side of the track support(s) towards the inside of the yard. I will leave a small gap between the two parallel tracks; since I'll be running some of my Bachmann geared engines up there as well, I'm going to allow the hedge to grow up and around the track a bit (trimming it as necessary for rolling stock clearances) to provide a least a suggestion of "forest!" [;)] I'd like to know if anyone has done any construction along these lines, as well as suggestions for roadbed and/or track support material? The trackage will be approximately 2 feet above ground level. I'd also like to know what experiences people have had with Aristo-Craft stainless steel track vs. Aristo or LGB brass track; any input or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks! [:)] Tom Lapointe

[Anonymous]

Tom, Sounds to me like you might be a goog canidate for Old Dads spline roadbed. You can get a hold of him by e-mail, just go to his helpful F.Y.I. thread in general discussion and click on his name and then his e-mail. He has some good pics of it. His system has been in operation for some time with no problems, and thats with I believe Minnasota winters! With his system you might be able to make the span from fence post to fence post with out any additional supports.
As for the track stainless vs. brass do a search, I know it's been touched on several times and I myself cannot give you the hands on answer you require.

Good luck

[Anonymous]

Check out the pictures on the main discussion under "mainline"
I'm doing just what you want to.
Troy

[wa1lbk]

Thanks for the prompt replies, guys! I am going to check out the spline roadbed method; one of the more interesting aspects is that he claims that it's temperature expansion / contraction pretty well matches most commercially available track. One question I have is how tight can I make curves with it? Accucraft specs the 3-cylinder Shay as being 48" min. radius; the couple of steamup tests I've done so far seem to verify this, so 48" will probably be my minimum radius (all my Bachmann locos negotiate LGB 24" radius without any problem); in fact, the limiting factor on the Accucraft Shay seem to be the sliding spline joints in the Shay driveline; I've sat it on some of the 24" curves on my indoor layout just for a couple of still photos of it, so truck swivel isn't a problem. We did turn it loose on a friend's existing outdoor layout (I THOUGHT his curves were 48" radius!); it tracked OK, but coming out of one curve I saw that the rear spline had separated, the loose joints spinning merrily away as the Shay rolled along with only it's front truck doing all the work! (We had the engine running light at the time). I'll also have to check on the local availability of TREX; if Hope Depot or Lowe's carry it, that might be the way to go. Still debating on what "flavor" of track to buy yet, I want to try to get at least a startup quantity ordered this week. Thanks again. Tom Lapointe

[Anonymous]

Hi Tom,
On the track question I have only used brass, LGB some years ago and currently Aristo. I have to say that LGB is solid, the elephant standing on it is no joke, but it's (at least in the UK) european flavour. Aristo is not as solid but their american ties look good and I like the fact that there is mechanical bonding built in. They also have a superb selection of radii for their curves, definately worth a look.
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[markperr]

I'm assuming that you plan on running electricity to the rails since you're pondering the difference between brass and stainless. Although I don't own any stainless, it's my understanding that it maintains much better conductivity than brass because it doesn't skin over like brass (non-conductive film). The trade off of course is cost. SS is far more expensive than brass. If you're only going to be running live steam, then it seams logical to go with the cheaper rail which you can then paint to give the impression of a steel rail.

As for the support, whatever you use, keep in mind whether it'll warp being left out in the elements. Trex is a good thought. Cedar or redwood would probably work well also. I'd stay away from PT lumber unless you're going to secure it well in many directions. you usually end up buying the stuff wet and it has a tendency to warp as it's drying. Marine grade plywood is also worth considering. You can cut that stuff to whatever curvature you're going to use.

Mark

[cacole]

I'm doing exactly that right now, and am using a version of the spline roadbed idea. My layout is on a hillside with a 15 inch drop from back to front. The back part is on the ground, and the front part is being elevated 15 inches.

I'm using cedar fence pickets that are 6 feet long, 5/8 inch thick, and 4 inches wide. I cut them lengthwise into 1.5 inch wide strips. Two strips are turned up on edge and ladder rung style cross bracing cut out of the same material, 2-3/8 inches long, is glued between them every 12 inches, using Gorilla Glue. The wood is then given a good coat of polyurethane to seal it.

I'm using a 7 foot long piece of 4-inch diameter ABS water pipe to soak pickets that need to be formed into a curve. The pickets are soaked in ammonia for a few days, and are then held in place at the desired degree of curvature until the ammonia evaporates. Once dry, the pickets will retain their curvature, and can then be fabricated into roadbed.

I'm using cedar only because it's very plentiful here in Arizona as fencing material. After being sealed with the polyurethane spar varnish, they should last beyond my lifetime.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by cacole

I'm doing exactly that right now, and am using a version of the spline roadbed idea. My layout is on a hillside with a 15 inch drop from back to front. The back part is on the ground, and the front part is being elevated 15 inches.

I'm using cedar fence pickets that are 6 feet long, 5/8 inch thick, and 4 inches wide. I cut them lengthwise into 1.5 inch wide strips. Two strips are turned up on edge and ladder rung style cross bracing cut out of the same material, 2-3/8 inches long, is glued between them every 12 inches, using Gorilla Glue. The wood is then given a good coat of polyurethane to seal it.

I'm using a 7 foot long piece of 4-inch diameter ABS water pipe to soak pickets that need to be formed into a curve. The pickets are soaked in ammonia for a few days, and are then held in place at the desired degree of curvature until the ammonia evaporates. Once dry, the pickets will retain their curvature, and can then be fabricated into roadbed.

I'm using cedar only because it's very plentiful here in Arizona as fencing material. After being sealed with the polyurethane spar varnish, they should last beyond my lifetime.

I'm interested in the ammonia thing, never heard of it before. I built a steamer for bending wood out of PVC and an old galvinized gas can on top of a propane burner, it works fair, although you have to bend it quickly and attach it. It has the tendency to diplace the moisture quickly and lose its flexibilty.