I hope to be starting a garden layout this year. I decided to go with equipment from Hartland Locomotive Works. They're close to me (over in Indiana), and I like the scale (1/24) since a lot of doll house furnishings and the like are scaled as such.
I don't have have a power system picked out yet, but one of the requirements for it, will be that it be able to run possibly up to four locos at once. So I'm looking to get recomendations from some of you that have large power requirements like this. The longest run on the layout I am planning, will be about 30- 40 feet (a point to point operation).
Hi I would go with massoth if you are planning on running more than one loco on the same track, it will give you full control of locos and keep them from catching up with one another.
Hope this helps
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
If you are going with track power I would recommend any of the Bridgwerk's power supplys. I have had my 15 amp unit for over 10 years with no problems.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
You need to determine how you will control your locos.
Are you just going to run a single train on the track at one time or multiple trains?
Are you going to speed-match the locos with diodes or resistors if they are not all the same model?
maybe you can run straight DC, maybe you want some kind of multi train control.
The massoth system suggested is DCC.
The Bridgeworks is a massive analog power supply/throttle.
Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
I'm going to go a bit contrary, and suggest that if you're just starting out--knowing the trains you're going to be running--that you could probably get off "cheap" to get your feet wet. When I started out in the 70s, we didn't have the luxury of all these high-power supplies we have today. We ran our trains with "beefy" HO-scale power supplies. In my case, it was an MRC Tech 2 "Locomotion 2500" (which is currently on ebay for $16). This was fine for running one loco with 8 or 9 cars on our railroad. We weren't running "express" speeds, so the fact that it didn't go "all the way" to 24 volts (common for large scale controllers) wasn't an issue. At that point, we were running 250' of track. I'd expect that with the Hartland trains you're looking to run, you'd be in a very similar boat.
Personally, I'd recommend to start get yourself some low-to-middle-of-the-road power supplies off ebay or from swap meets, and hook one to each track you want to run. That gets you running inexpensively without any fuss or electronic surgery to the locomotives for the "higher end" on-board control systems. Run with that, get involved with a local club (assuming there's one in your area) and see what others are using to run their trains. Then you can plunk down a much larger chunk of change for a control system that's most suited to how you want to run your trains (which is something you really can't know until you have trains running and can interact with them).
Don't get me wrong--any of the suggestions above would be great. The Bridgewerks power supplies are some of the best made. But if you want to walk around and control your trains, you'd be wasting your money. DCC is a great way to control your trains, too, but if you're not up to doing electronic surgery on your locos (which you'll have to do with Hartland's stuff), again, you're wasting your money. The "right" way to do things isn't cheap, and rather than throw away money on the wrong "right" way, start small with what at least works with minimal investment, then go (grow) from there.
Later,
K
Bridgeworks does not recommend their power supplies for DCC, this is direct from the owner.
And DCC has no more electronic surgery than any other remote control system.
What I don't see in Kevin's suggestion is how to run 4 trains on one track with DC only.
Block control is ridiculous outside.
Greg Elmassian Block control is ridiculous outside. Greg
I beg to differ with Greg, only because I have been doing just that with my trains since I rebuilt mine with two passing sidings It's nice to run three different trains when I fell like it. I am also planning on extending my mainline so the station will sit between tracks and i can move/add a service area. Having block control will allow me to keep running at least two trains durring the realighment.
...What I don't see in Kevin's suggestion is how to run 4 trains on one track with DC only.
That's because I don't think that's what TrainBrain is looking to do. He states his longest run is 30 - 40 feet (point to point). Based on that, I'm making the assumption that he's looking to do individual tracks for each of his four locomotives, where each track can have its own dedicated throttle. A track that has four locos--it's an entirely different kind of running, altogether. (Airplane! fans feel free to chime in.)
A hospital? What's that?
A big building with lots of people with white coats, but that's not important now!
(big Airplane! fan)
Yeah Kevin, did not consider that he would have 4 separate loops/lines in 30-40 feet. Could be!
On the block control, I'll temper my statement, if you have a lot of track out doors, all the wiring to do block control will be problematic. Just wiring a passing siding is not what I meant by block control, I was thinking in the vein of 4 trains running.
Regards, Greg
Dear Train Brain,
Do yourself and big, big favor and go battery power.
In the long run it's probably cheaper....and you are going to enjoy it a lot more than track power.
Just the opinion of someone who stubbornly fought battery power for a long time and wish now I had given in sooner!!
p.s. the 1:24 scale is wonderful and if your ingenious you can make it work!
The St. Francis Consolidated Railroad of the Colorado Rockies
Denver, Colorado
It's been endlessly debated, but if you work the numbers 4 battery equipped locos with r/c gear is right about where dcc is cheaper... We've calculated it ad nauseum on MLS and even the staunchest battery proponents admit it.
Remember, 4 locos at the same time, not one battery car running one loco at a time.
4 battery packs, 4 receivers, and a few chargers... the cost per loco is higher.
I seem to be spending about $175 per loco....I don't know the measurement of how "expensive" or "cheap" that is because to me the time and labor and skill-set savings are priceless, as well as the running freedom.
I saw somewhere that DCC allows you to run your trains not your layout. I'd say the same about battery power now that I got it. That's worth a lot to me as the enjoyment increases considerably.
But as you say, the cost comparisons have been endlessly debated.
If the man chooses track power over battery, if I were him I would follow Kevin's advice...advice which I wish I had had, or listened to, when I started.
Dear Train Brain.....go to RR concepts they have a great system for block control, station stops as well as reversing...i ve been using them for awhile...they are also more cost effective then some of the other systems mentioned.
I'd agree - Massoth should be high on your list to investigate.
Regards
Geoff - Canberra, Australia
There are many DCC systems available.
I have the ZIMO system and work with Train-Li.
I also have the LGB MTS serial and a parallel system.
There is MRC, NEC, and many others.
Big difference in prices and you get more features when you pay more in general.
I would look at the specs of each and then decide if DCC and track power is your choice.
Ask questions on the forums to better understand the benefits of each way to run trains. I still use the Aristocraft 27 mhz train engineer (remote controlled DC) as well as the Zimo and MTS digital systems.
TB,
I would recommend researching all of the various power systems available, and then make a punch list of the pors and cons of each of the systems based upon how you intend to run your trains. Each system has it's advantages and dis-advantages relative to an operating style.
I would also not rule out block control, if that suits your operating style. Yes, it will be a bit of extra work to install and maintain, but done properly it will minimize maintenance. Properly installed feeders and insulators will last a long time. Keep in mind that power system and track choice to hand in hand. Although Greg above commented on the cost of battery power/radio control, he left out the reality that battery power does not require power to the rails, allowing convenient use of aluminum track, which is about half the cost of brass, and even less compared to stainless steel.
When all is said and done, it is your rail road. Research, learn, listen to those who have already been there and done that, but make the decision based on your circumstances.
Good luck, and welcome to Garden Railroading.
Bob C.
Track power does not preclude using aluminum track. Aluminum is the best conductor of electricity after copper (not brass or stainless steel). I've used it for over ten years with track power. It's not perfect, but nothing is.
For the price, it can't be beat for any kind of train operation outdoors. IMHO of course.
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