OK how did you drill the square hole's for the hand rail's?
Dave
PS have four ready the ship
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Ray Dunakin In this photo you can see the "cabinets" that form the raised part of the deck, behind the cab:
In this photo you can see the "cabinets" that form the raised part of the deck, behind the cab:
Isn't that in front of the cab?
dwbeckett OK how did you drill the square hole's for the hand rail's?
Dave, I drilled round holes, then filled them with "Kwik Plastic", a type of epoxy putty available from Home Depot. While the putty was still soft, I used a homemade tool to press a short length of rectangular rod into the putty. The rod was smeared with a bit of vasoline so I could pull it out cleanly. I posted pics of this a little bit back in the thread.
IRB Souther Engineer Isn't that in front of the cab?
Depends on which way you're running it. When they first were put into use, most railroads ran them with the long hood forward. That's how my RR does it too.
Ray I was poking fun at you, I have been following this post since day one.
I got the superstructure (cab and hoods) painted. Still have to add lettering, then weather it. Once that's done, I can install the "glass" in the windows:
The main color is Rustoleum Gloss Enamel burgandy. The handrails and pilots will be "school bus yellow", using Rustoleum's "inverted marking paint".
The steps and deck are gloss black:
I used 1/24th scale diamond treadplate for the steps and deck. The only current source for this is Don Mills Models, which specializes in custom model trucks. Here's a link in case anyone's interested:
http://www.donmillsmodels.com/main/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_new.tpl&product_id=183&category_id=25&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=73
That's all for now.
You read my febel thoughts on my paint combiation, now I will have to go with a darker red.
Here's another brief update...
On the real RS-3, there are chains connecting the brake wheel with the brake cylinders on the rear truck. The chains pass through a couple of guides that hang down from the underside of the deck. I added these details to my model. I had to make sure that the truck would still be able to turn enough to handle my 6.5' minimum diameter curves. Here's how it looks prior to painting:
I'm getting closer to the finish line!
I got the handrails done for the front pilot. I just need to make a couple of minor adjustments, then duplicate it for the rear pilot. The straight uprights were made same as the ones along the side, using carbon fiber rod with a thin styrene strip laminated to it. The angled uprights were a challenge. I couldn't get any brass strips in the correct size, so I ended up using 3/32" aluminum tube, and flattened it with a hammer:
I also need to adapt some couplers.
I haven't had a lot of time to work on this project lately, due to getting ready for Christmas, etc. But I have made a little progress...
First off, I got everything painted. The deck and underframe is painted Rustoleum gloss black. The pilots and the sides of the deck are painted "school bus yellow", and the cab and hoods are burgandy. I added the herald, engine number and some "high voltage" signs, all of which were printed out on self-adhesive vinyl.
Then I started on the weathering. Here's a shot of how it looks so far. (The handrails along the sides have been left off at this time, and the cab/hoods are not yet weathered.)
I'm using flat Apple Barrel craft acrylics for the weathering except where noted. I applied a thin, blotchy wash of dark brown to the deck, with a few blotches of lighter, rustier brown, mostly down the middle of the walkways where there would be more wear.
I began weathering the pilot and steps by brushing on some dark brown "rust" areas to represent places where the paint has been scratched or worn off -- mostly along edges, and on the handrails. When this had dried, I dry-brushed some highlights to represent bare metal, using a mix of Model Master "gun metal" and "steel" non-buffing metalizer.
Then I went over the whole thing with a thin wash of dirty, rusty brown. This wash had some clear acrylic matte medium mixed in, and a tiny dab of liquid detergent to prevent beading on the glossy surface. When applying the wash to the front of the pilot, I held the model so that the front would be almost level, preventing the paint from running off. However, I did allow some of the paint to build up along the bottom edge. It still needs some more work, but here's how it looks now:
I did the same thing along the side of the deck, adding some extra rust color to certain areas and allowing it to run down in streaks. This too, still needs more work.
The trucks had been weathered already, but I decided they needed something more. I wanted to add some caked on dust and dirt, which would be typical on an engine that runs in the desert and works around mines and mills. To do this, I used some ashes from our barbecue. First I applied a mix of grimy colored paint and matte medium, with a dab of detergent. Then I sprinkled on the ashes, and blew off the excess. I went over it again with some more of the grimy paint mix to wet the ashes thoroughly.
I gave this same treatment to the back of the pilot as well as the fuel and air tanks, keeping in mind the way these features would most likely accumulate such dust and grime.
On the fuel tank, I added several successive layers of thin, dusty washes to represent build up of spilled fuel and dirt. Then I topped it off with a narrow "dribble" of muddy black paint mixed with gloss medium, to look like a recent spill:
The fuel cap was painted with Model Master "brass" metalizer, then given a wash of grimy black. I may give it another layer or two of grime.
That's all for now, more later. Merry Christmas!
Ray,
Excellent work. Keep the updates coming, although I would consider it done already, once the handrails are on.
Mick
Chief Operating Officer
Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak
This evening I finished wiring up the Revolution receiver, Phoenix sound board, new lights, etc, tested it, and EVERYTHING WORKS!!! Whoohooo!
Of course, then I realized that I forgot to put the engineer in the cab, so now I have to open it all up again. :P
Right now I can only run it back and forth on a 5' section of track in the garage. I'll have to wait a couple days for our latest batch of rain to stop, before I can clean up the layout and get it running out there. I haven't been able to run anything on the layout since mid-October, due to the frequent rain this year.
Anyway, I still have a few things I need to do on the exterior of the loco before it's officially finished.
The project is finished but here's a construction pic that I hadn't gotten around to posting before. It shows the windshield wipers I made for the loco, out of bits of brass wire:
In case anyone was following this thread and missed it, the finished photos and video were posted in a separate thread. You can see them here:
http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/185237.aspx
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