Hello to everyone, this will be my first post..
Have spent the last few weeks reading past and watching allot of videos. So if this question has been asked a million times before, i apologize, i must have missed it.
Ive decided to run Aristocraft track, and have, for now, A Bauchman starter kit engine I bought from a fellow that didn't want it any more.
My plans for now are to run my track overhead in my game room and then outside into a covered bar area and then back inside..That part is easy.Eventually I would like to take the train out the back and drop down too a raised garden area. This would be about 6 ft. Ive only got 80 ft to get this done.
Trying to leave room and think ahead. Is there any way to circle my way up and down? Im sure there is a name for it. If so, could i do it with a 4 ft radious?
Any pics would be nice. And thanks in advanced.
Now i'll get back to reading and learning.
well, if you had 60 feet to drop 6 feet the math would be easty -- 10%,
DON'T DO I!!!!
re-do the math so that the slope is 3%. that wold suck less.
if you want a low-maintenance bar/restaurant 'G' train, keep it level.. very level.
If you want to explore slopes on curves, be prepared for significant frustration.
So.
With regard to your original question: focus on the 'easy' stuff. make it work. maybe save place for a turnout (switch) to/from the extension. THEN deal with the complicated stuff.
and deal with advice in the manner that you paid for it.
6 feet of rise will require a little more than 300 feet of track to keep your grade down to a reasonable 2%. The 4' radius is the killer. If you're considering a helix I can tell you from experience that you need at least 10" between levels which works out to a minimum radius of 6.64'. I wish I had better news for you. I guess you could push it to 3+% to make the radius constraint but you wouldn't be able to pull very many cars.
Rex
Well, I pretty much had a feeling, from what ive read, that I was probably asking to much.
Helix is the term I was looking for. I suppose to get things up and running, I can have 2 trains on 2 seperate tracks, starting with the level elevated track first. I've allready purchase about 200 ft. of track, so as soon as I am done with the sheet rock in the game room, i'll be gettn' after it.
One other option I would have is some sort of draw bridge. One of the main reasons I need to have such a drop is there is a walkway that I need to get over/through and would be okay to block during the time when i'm running the train, and then raise/remove while not in use.
Wow, this is going to be fun. I can see how you can get carried away with ideas. Sometimes with these projects you can have almost as much fun planing, designing and bulding as you do with the final product.
As my wife rolls her eyes at me everytime I add more work. With a smile of course.
After all, she's the one with the green thumb. I'm just a tinker'er.
Thanks for the quick replies.
First and foremost, before even worrying about the track, have you tested the locomotive to see if it runs?
Bachmann locomotives, especially their "Big Hauler" and even Spectrum steam models, are notorious for developing a cracked nylon axle drive gear which makes them inoperative.
The steeper the grade the less a locomotive can pull and the more risk of causing that drive gear to crack.
If it does run okay, never, ever push it. That's a sure-fire way to cause the gear to strip loose from the axle.
Yep, the engine runs fine. Ive been running it for a few months now. Just ready to take it to the next level. I just purchasd the MRC 6200 power supply and eventually I will be buying a new Engine (once I go outside), the bauchman is OK, just not what im geering toward, and at that point will probably go big on the power supply and maybe keep the 6200 for the small track aprox. 150ft. inside.
lew1970 WellOne other option I would have is some sort of draw bridge. One of the main reasons I need to have such a drop is there is a walkway that I need to get over/through and would be okay to block during the time when i'm running the train, and then raise/remove while not in use.
WellOne other option I would have is some sort of draw bridge. One of the main reasons I need to have such a drop is there is a walkway that I need to get over/through and would be okay to block during the time when i'm running the train, and then raise/remove while not in use.
I use two removable bridge's on my RR, the newest is a 35 inch's long. my oldest is just under 4ft long and 12 years old it has taken a beating over the years. But still looks/works fine it's LGB brand and can be seen it the picture of my new bridge post. I would recommend a bridge that spans a distance wider then your walkway for the biggest thing that will use the walkway ----like lawn mower/tractor.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
There was an article in Model railroader or Narrow Gauge & Short Line Gazette about a guy who built a whole train elevator using a garage opener to raise and lower his train from one level to another.
Draw or removable bridges are a great idea. Rail clamps make removing and replacing easy without tearing up the rest of your track. Both of my removable bradges are 5 footers. If you're going over a walk-way then the advice given to plan on the largest ever thing that needs to pass through it is essential. That's rule number 1 (according to Tom) - "Always leave room for expansion."
Thanks everyone, I might be getting ahead of myself a little with the bridge talk, but I just want to make sure that what I do now will work out for what I will be wanting to do in the future..
I truly think that i'm going to run 2 seperate tracks. One for indoor, and one for indoor outdoor.
I haven't tried uploading pics on this site yet, but when I get my sheet rock in and can get a good picture of my layout, ill start taking pics and maybe get some input as I continue through this project.
One thing I have found with this project at the house (unlike other projects), everyone that has stopped by and seen what i'm doing actually wants to get involved and help. Of course, talk is cheap, but theyve definataly got plenty of opinions on how i'm doing it all wrong!
Rex in Pinetop Draw or removable bridges are a great idea. …. That's rule number 1 (according to Tom) - "Always leave room for expansion." Rex
Draw or removable bridges are a great idea. …. That's rule number 1 (according to Tom) - "Always leave room for expansion." Rex
Yes, Rex, I do recommend leaving room for expansion, I think most of us have experienced that problem. OK guys, we’ve been talking about drawbridge and removable bridges, but no one has mentioned an "elevator". In this case I would suggest seriously thinking about an 8 or 12 foot long elevator section to get the trains outside at ground level. Of course doing so would limit operations to two separate sections, one indoors and one outdoors. If continuous operation across both sections is the goal, then I would start tapping Rex’s brain matter for the experience and lessons of building the helix.
Tom Trigg
Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month