The Home of Articulated Ugliness
For US narrow gauge, figure on ties between 8" and 10" wide, and between 6' 6" and 7' long. Depth would be between 6" and 7". There was no real standard for narrow gauge ties, in fact many railroads used different sizes on different parts of the line, or changed sizes over the years. There was an article on narrow gauge tie sizes years ago in the Narrow Gauge Gazette. The only consistent thing in all the data they presented was that there was no consistency. Recall that narrow gauge railroads were built "on the cheap," so uniformity took a back seat to whatever the local sawyers felt like supplying at a good price. Quite frankly, you could probably go with what looks good to your eyes, and find a prototype narrow gauge RR tie to match. (Some even used standard-gauge ties!)
Tie spacing was much more uniform, though, usually between 20 - 24" on center, the same as the standard gauge (though standard gauge seldom exceeds 22" on center).
Later,
K
Guy,
I take it you are from the land down under, as I am. I have experimented with jarrah lawn edging for sleepers (ties) and found they are long living if you first pre drill them to take brass screws or brass brads. Anything else rusts really quick outside and pulls out. I cut the long lengths into strips lengthwise, along the grain. The thickness is good enough for sleeper thickness, and I cut them about half inch, (12mm) wide and about four inches (100 mm) long. One four metre length will easily give you enough sleepers for about 100 feet (30 metres) of track, if you are modelling narrow guage.
For indoors (my layout is part in the garage and part outside) I use old, weathered hardwood fence palings. I cut them the same way and they look great, being already weathered. They do not last outdoors, as they are prerotted and will fall apart quickly.
To set the guage, I nailed a piece of LGB track to a board and slip the hardwood sleepers under the gaps and predrill either side of each rail with a dremel or similar using the appropriate size drill, (for your brads or screws) When I go to assemble the track the guage is already set. When setting the track I fix the inside nail or screw first, then the outside, so the guage is never too tight. This is most important on curves.
Good luck. P.S. LGB sleeper bases look just as good when they are properly ballasted and the camera is moving. Here is a video of my layout. You will notice that it is hard to pick the hand laid track from the LGB based stuff.
Mick
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHdB_Lgv9yg
Chief Operating Officer
Northern Timber Company - Mt Beenak
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