what to do with track

[18fisher]

should i soder the pcs of track together or do the jumper wire,or any other ideas,im new to this first rail road out side set it up last year ran great but looking to make more permanent tired of dead spots.all track is lgb brass,thanks for the help,sorry not good with computer will try to get pics thanks again 18fisher

[ttrigg]

18fisher: Soldering rails together or soldering jumper wires or sturdy mechanical/electrical fasteners is a personal preference issue. There is NO best method here.

See the discussions here:

http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/173236.aspx and elsewhere on these pages.

My preference is as follows. I use LGB "flex" (5-ft) brass rails. I bend the curves I want and need as opposed to set manufacturer standards. I solder 2 of the 5-ft pieces into 10-ft sections and use Split Jaw Rail Clamps (that’s what my local hobby shop carried) to join the 10-ft sections. All switches (turnouts) are SJ rail clamped. Aristo has produced a cheaper rail clamp since I made my "mass purchases" and I’ve not heard anything bad about them, all comments have been very positive.

[18fisher]

thank you for the fast reply i just thought if i do jumper wire i could change track if needed not have one big section what size wire should i use thks 18 fisher

[kstrong]

I went to a club clinic the other day, and the gentleman putting on the talk said his first railroad, he soldered jumper wires to all his track. On his second one, he decided he didn't want to go through all the bother, so he used Hillman's rail clamps instead. I forget exactly how long his recent railroad has been done, but it's been at least 7 or 8 years if I recall. He says he has had no electrical problems at all just using the Hillman clamps on the joints.

Clamps aren't the cheapest, but they are certainly easier to deal with than soldering. And this example I heard the other day is not unique.

Later,

K

[ttrigg]

I concur with Kevin’s comments and need to amend my previous post here. My "empire" has been in place for 8 years now. As I said above, I use Split Jaw rail clamps to join the 10-ft soldered sections. I have one run where the rail feeder wires are 141 feet apart. The rail clamps and soldered joints provide both positive mechanical connections as well as positive electrical connection. I my humble opinion, if you have good solid joints, the need for electrical feeder wires is greatly reduced. The main reason I solder the 5-ft sections into 10-ft sections is to reduce the use and cost of the rail clamps. The 141-foot run has never posed a physical connection problem or an electrical problem. Just for the giggles of it, I went out this evening I applied a random power setting to the rails and tested with a meter. At the point where feeders are attached, I had 16.26 volts, half way along the run (farthest point from each feeder) I measured 16.19 volts. Again boldly proclaim that good solid connections is of paramount importance.

[18fisher]

thanks guys for the good advice talk to ya soon lots more ? 18fishe

[two tone]

Hi  I hope this will help I put a link of wire each end of the rail joiner, I just ease it in behind the joiner and after 5 years ive never had a break in power

[Camaro1967]

 I too can echo what others have said. I have two 300 ft  Aristo stainless steel loops, All the joints are connected with Hillman clamps.  I have not had any conductivity issues for six years now. I go away every winter, this year for two months. There was two ft of snow on the layout once  I came home after all the snow was gone, swept all the leaves, twigs, etc off the track, and was running trains. I am totally happy with my set up.

Paul

[mgilger]

One thing to consider is the time aspect. Soldering will take a long time. If time is not issue then soldering is a cheap and excellent method. Since your using LBG track, you probably want to either solder or use rail clamps or you will continue having problems.

 Good luck

Mark

http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/

[Rex in Pinetop]

Another thing to consider is the use of a rail bender.  Mine did not like my previous solder lumps near the head of the rails.  (I reused track from a previous layout that I did spend considerable time soldering in solid connector wires.)  I tried using a cutting wheel on my dremel to remove some solder at the rail heads.  That worked but it took way too long.  I ended up removing the solder completely and used rail clamps.

Rex

[Greg Elmassian]

Any soldering should be in the web or the foot of the rail, nowhere near the head.

Clamps vs. soldering jumpers is simple, time vs. money (brass track)

Regards, Greg

 

[Rex in Pinetop]

My soldering was in the web although perhaps too much solder was used so it affected the rail bender trying to grip under the head of the rail.  Note too if you get too much solder near the foot of the rail it presents problems getting the ties back on.  Not enough solder and the wire breaks off when you apply the twist to the wires to make the joint connection. 

All in all I did not have a good experience with soldering jumper wires.  Go for the clamps.  You'll be a lot happier down the road.

Rex

[Greg Elmassian]

Ahh... I solder with the rails in the ties. Big hot iron and very clean rail and flux makes it doable.

My club down here in Sandy Eggo has a resistance solderer, basically a way to "spot weld" a wire to the rail, no heating anywhere else, fast, etc.

A very good way to do it, and even worth the investment for an individual on a large layout.

More than one way to skin a cat.

 

Regards, Greg