Elevated Railways

[Anonymous]

I am nor sure if I have used the right term here I think it should be suspended railways.

I am thinking or running a suspended railway backover my main straight and creating a new loop, it will be 26 m (86') long. Most of it will be along my fence (wood) but some will be across a concrete block wall, which is a feature behind my pool. In any case it will pass through or near several tropical plants What is the best way to support it. I will also have three obstacles to overcome as well.

1) I will have a double decker tunnel 2.2m (8') long.
2) I will have to blow a hole in a 200 mm (8") thick concrete block wall.
3) Last but not least, i will have to enter an LGB MTS reversing loop in about its middle and I am concerned regarding any electrical problems ?

Any ideas.


Rgs


Ian Kawana Island etc.

[Anonymous]

Well no one seems interested in this subject except me that has never stopped me in the past and itr won't stop me now.

I havbe made some headway, I have found some Aluminium (Alluminum) "U" section,
100 mm X 25 mm (4" X1") that is ideal for the job about A$10 per metre, comes in 5.6 m (18.3') sections. What if I partially fill it with ballast and set my track into it. Then prior I will paint it to suit the back ground. I might use the same stuff ro make a few bridges as well.

Does any know how to bend it horizontally ?


Regards


Ian kawana

[Anonymous]

Hi Ian,

Tall order bending that I think. I suspect that the way to do this would be to saw through one 1" lip and most of the 4" base to a point were you can bend the strut. Use some ali sheet to cover the gaps, bolt or glue it. Don't think it will be a perfect bend but if it's cut every 2" or so you should be able to follow the track fairly well. Trial and error me thinks!
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[bman36]

Hi Ian,
Bending will only cause it to "bulge" at that point. Cutting will definately be in order. Filling any gaps will be necessary. I like the idea of going "fencetop". Getting through the concrete will take some doing. To do it cleanly will require a "flute" or long masonry bit in a 1/2" hammer drill. Drill all along the perimeter of the hole you want and then knock it out with a big hammer. The drilling is exhausting. You may want to find someone for the right fee to do this for you. I had to make holes in my basement wall for hydro to my garage. Never again. Keep us posted on your progress. Later eh...Brian.[:D]

[Anonymous]

Hello Ian,
I think we are both thinking of the same idea for the elevated sections of our railways,using metal sections.I am trying to get some some pictures on my website to explain what I am going to do.If it's alright with you I can send you an E-mail with my ideas and diagrams.It is so annoying not to be able to post pictures here!
We use this stuff at work all the time to hold our electrical cables.If it can hold heavy cables,it can hold a train.It has a thin profile(unlike wood) and can be painted to match the garden.
Troy

[Anonymous]

Thanks Troy I would love that, I have not solved the problem in Alumunium and am thinking of going to wood. The aluminium can be bent and I can get it done by roll forming down in Brisbane, but it is pretty exxy, so i probably won't do it.

My email is [e-mail]

Actually I have jumped around too much here, if iuse it in my area 3, I will have too bend it but if I use it in my elevated railway I wont have too. The elevated railway will be on much more public display than area 3, so i will probably use marine ply for area 3 and aluminum section for the elevated section. This will join area 3 up to area 1 and run right across my feature wall behind the pool in area 2. I think Doreen has her reservations about this, she is pretty keen on that feature wall.


Rgs ian

[Anonymous]

I'm a little tardy for joining in, sorry. My G gauge mainline is braced off a privacy fence 40" above ground level. This is as about as unorthidox as I've ever gone. The only "gardening" possible is using planters between the fence and the right-of-way. Painted panels effect background scenery. The 20' diameter reverse loop just "hangs" there suspended in space. I will effect under surface "arched" support between 4" X 4" posts as per a viaduct illusion under the "loop." Lots of post hole digging and braces off the fence which, so far, have supported my "light rail" rolling stock securely.

This approach is truly far more railroad oriented than organic. But, it modifies the ugliness of my privacy fence and makes for much easier access and "eyeballing" the trains is also improved. Hope everyone is into a lot of action this Spring. Looking forward to even more great Topics very soon. Happy rails.

[tmcc man]

I am in the process of designing my garden railway, and I am using Mainline Enterprise's PVC roadbed. The web site is getting updated right now, and here is the site www.gardenrailwayproducts.com. See if that is any help.[:D]