Modeling the Pennsylvania Railroad in N Scale.
www.prr-nscale.blogspot.com
QUOTE: Originally posted by GP-9_Man11786 For a conveyer belt on my sawmill, I used an old sanding belt. To make a raught-iron fence, you can take paper clips and solder them together side by side and either paint them balck or let them rust. I also took a few of those palstic "cell packs" that seedlings are sold in and made "Hazmat" containers out of them. This was largly based off a Lionel car.
Celotex Drop ceiling tiles cut into strips & broke up into smaller pieces for mountain strata, rock faces in hills, etc.
Found objects; tower fans from Walmart for skyscrapers (average price-$17 to $37 in working condition). That's a lot cheaper than a skyscraper in kit form. I leave the fan part in operating condition. Plastic sign material from Walmarts dumpsters to make buildings from scratch.
Carpet fibers for foliage. Buy a deep pile rug from the Dollar store & cut out clumps w/sharp scissors for foliage. Prefer dark greens. Paint brushes from the Dollar store for reeds in your lakes & streams. I use sharp scissors to cut off clumps of the brush & imbed them in a wet lake when making the water or you can use E6000 to glue the reeds on or some fast setting glue. Make awnings from PVC 90 degree elbows cut at a certain spot on a bandsaw. All kinds of rock from the garden dept. in lg. bags or the pet dept.(for fish aquariums) in small bags at Walmart. I use a lot of Lava rock & then add coloring. Pringle canisters for silo's. Paint them w/latex paint. I get scrap sign boards(wafer board) from my local sign shops & scratch build a lot of buildings w/it.(free). Real dirt & sand for rough roads. Sheetrock mudd for roads & RR crossings. When it dries, it cracks like real old time roads. If the cracks are too big, fill them w/caulk. If you have a section of your layout that you have ripped up & you don't want to sand it down the rest of your life, cover it w/thin construction cardboard. Like the display boards you find in the stationery dept. at Walmart.Paint it w/asphalt grey latex.
I've used plaster for mountains, foam for mountains, pine bark & a bunch of other stuff, but, I like plaster the best over aluminum screen. It doesn't crack & is super strong. But, now I've got completely away from that & only use Celotex tiles now.
I've been in the Model RR'ing hobby for over 45 years & I learn something new everyday. You just gotta get out there in those craft stores, Walmart craft depts. & other places & look. Your mind will see things that will work on that special RR project.
Have a GREAT Day!!
GAP RR (Gulf-Atlantic-Pacific)
Ok, this one may blow you away.
I worked at my second career as a granite countertop fabricator/installer. After becoming "disabled", due to the obvious... bad back. I have been just working on keeping my sanity, (that's going OK) by staying busy in some way... any way. My injuries do limit my mobility but not my desire to create.
I used a few pieces of stone leftover from a large kitchen job, to fabricate a polished granite arch bridge. The bridge is located in a prominent spot on my cousin's garden railroad in Pottstown, Pa. (it was a gift)
Stone cutting is moderately dangerous but it's really not too difficult and if you can find a source locally, I reccomend trying it. (hint... Local stone shops have a whole lot of leftovers from prior jobs, and they would love to see someone come and pick thru it... Most of it will never "move", so I'll bet you the price will be extremely low, and you will be doing them a favor by getting it out of their way. They are probably way too busy making kitchens, to ever take the time to go thru what's in their yard. It's old stuff too them. All they are thinking about is keeping up with the demand for kitchens)
It usually comes polished on one side and 3cm thick. (1 1/4") If you would like your bridge to be "polished" (like a mirror) then you will need to either spend a lot to have one made, or to buy the diamond polishing pads yourself and hope you can master that skill without screwing up a lot of stone in the process. It might be one of those, "don't try this at home" type of things. In that case you can just e-mail me and I'll help you thru the process.
I was actually going to start to design and build them for folks as an "artist/contractor" but since I came up with that idea, my back and hip have gotten worse. I do still want to see more of my bridges out there in the real world, and I would love to see all of the garden railroading community enjoy them too. So if this sounds like something which you would like to hear more about, or if you have dimensions for a hole you want to span, run it past me and we'll see what happens. I'm willing to "train", so don't be shy. You can learn a new trade, too.
E-mail address: GraniteDude@comcast.net
I am glade to see this thread is still alive and active! I to am disabled but I think I have lost my sanity.
For high wheel or mow truck use lower guage wheels. Makes it to scale and if your anal as I am placing a motor on the high rail truck it will wiz around the track with your workers!
William
Note: true value in the front wheels on truck needs to be off the rail and back tires need to be on the rail. All the strobes and flashers are online.
Wow...I totally forgot I had started this thread. Thanks everyone for all your contributions! Talk about excellent ideas for scratch building. Keep it up. Later eh...Brian.
Hi
Has any one mentioned El Cheapo thin self stick vinyl floor tiles for roofing slates.
A real painful job it will be to cut the individual tiles, but if you have the time and the patience worth it.
We really should pay more attention to roofs as we spend a lot of time looking down at them.
regards John
Sorry guys I have not the money just yet to get this kitbash off the ground yet but you can use a 12v cpu cooling fan (under $8.00, non bearing) to cool a engine and so far my test shows it reduces heat by 56% which keeps the motor and me happy. I hope.
I am making my own SF M.O.W. sweeper and I did not skimp on anything. Just need bearings???!!!
Did not know where to place this, so here it is....enjoy. Need me to get closer I could.
ghelman wrote:Wow, what great ideas. Not much to add. I did build a water tower. I banded it with copper wire. I strpped off the coating and stretched it out. Then layed it around the tower. To keep it in place I drove copper tacks into the tower around the perimeter. and soldered the wire at each tack. Not sure how real this is but it looks nice. I also made the roof from brass sheet and angle brass. Again probably not what was ever used on the real ones but looks good in the garden.
Chuck
http://www.chuckcondron.com/CCLayout/index.html
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