It happen again. I have two sets of Aristo Craft switches in my over head layout. They have been up there for just over a year. I just completed motorizing them.They are in the form of cross over and cross back NOT "X" style.
The cross over have been used many times.
The motors are external controlling both switches in the same track path via linkage.
A couple of months ago I started having dead spot when I crossed over. I removed the switch and found the inter-connecting wire burnt. I replaced it. I checked for problems, where a short could happen.
Found nothing.
The cross over have been operational and used several times.
Today I was placing a passenger car up onto the inside track of the double loop "power off". The car was on the rails correctly and I was attempting to couple the car to the next car *power restored*. It was some distance from the switch.
I seen a lot of smoke. I removed the second switch in the same cross over. The inter-connecting wire was burnt to a crisp. The short was not enough to dim the lights in the cars or blow the 15 amp fuse.
Any GOOD suggestion?
I am going to place micro switches that open the sliding rails power feeds until the rail is set to its new direction. Then only that directions power lead will have power to center section.
10 ft diameter
Some have plastic frogs other have brass rail frogs. It happen to both.
Aristo makes 3 different switches, an extremely sharp one, the "wide radius" with the plastic frog (10' diameter) and the #6 with the all metal frog about 5 inches long, the total switch is 32" long.
I can give you suggestions on each, but how about we narrow it down to which one you have?
Otherwise it might take several pages!
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
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two question's: Are you using one or two power supply's and are you using insulted track jointers ?
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Been there, done that, even had a switch catch fire after cleaning with WD-40.
The Aristo "Wide Switch" has a plastic "frog". Aristo is replacing them with a new version for the cost of postage. The long #6 switch uses a brass "frog" whos polarity is changed by a micro switch under the track. Problems, problems. You have a good chance that one of the micros did not switch and the metal wheel made a "dead short". Heavier, water proof, micro switches can be ordered from Aristo.
Your real problem is the 15 amps! I can run twin, twin motored, diesels with radio control and sound and draw only 3.5 amps. The output of my 13 amp power supply is fused down with an automotive type fuse to ether 7 amp or even 5 amps. I want to protect the internal wiring of the locomotives and the lightweight wiring connections under the switches.
Don U. TCA 73-5735
Just a teeny correction: the Aristo #6 frog is plated pot metal, very soft. The frog on the #6 USAT switch is solid cast brass.
A corroded and "stuck" microswitch is the typical electrical failure in Aristo #6.
Still waiting to hear the answers from the OP, and a bit confused, it sounded like these switches are on a passing siding, so no insulated joiners should be necessary, unless you want to turn the power in the passing track.
15 amps 100 amps. 7 amps no difference.
The wire burned. There are no micro switched in any (about 30) my switches. I just added micro switches after the second switch wire burned up.
The micro switch keeps power (directionally) from the moving rails until they are about to close.
My first test run was today.
The first switch to burn up the plastic moving tie between the moving rails melted.
I still do not see any reason the wire should burn up. The gap between the rails is comparatively large. I think it is something in the composition of the plastic the turns conductive.
Sorry, see you stated the Wide Radius (10 foot diameter switches) in your first post.
My experiences are that high current can cause severe heating of the small jumper wires, and the connection where the wire goes under the head of the screw.
Overall, it's a poor arrangement, many of mine have melted from high current (not a short, but just 5-7 amps of train). The wire is too thin a gauge, and also the connection between the wire and the screw head and the rail is not great.
Most of what I have seen is the power going THROUGH the switch from one end to the other, i.e. the power source is on one side of the switch and the train on the other.
I make jumpers from 14 gauge solid copper wire and use rail clamps and jumper the 2 short rails at the frog to the outside rails... I have not had to do anything for the "moving rails" because the train is only on them a short time. I have not had problems with the power arrangement there.
Hope that helps.
p.s. I agree, 7, 15, 100, makes no difference, normal running should not have this problem.
A picture of both sides of the switch would help. I have never had a switch or switch motor burn-up like you have discribed. Is power being applied to both sides Power WILL pass thorugh a lighted car/engine. Have you checked to see if you are powering both sides of the switch-over the same direction of travel ? Could it be a BAD control switch for the turnout? By the way I use A 15 Amp power supply and use the AC output to control my switch's
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