What is the best weed killer?? After spending a lot of time removing all of my PT wood base and replacing it with concret bricks I GOT WEEDS. Although only in a few areas inbetween the bricks. So what weed killer can i use that will NOT kill my wife's rose's.
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
I use roundup and with a small pattern on weeds... you have to get it on the leaves to kill stuff.
I can spray pretty close to other plants with no harm (not in the wind).
If you are in a very sensitive area, you can find stuff that kills seeds so they won't germinate, like pre-emergent weed killers.
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
To kill: Roundup in a quart spray bottle. It works quickly by destroying the weed from the leaves down. No problems from ground/root absorption, unless you spill a bottle on a plant. Do not use if the area drains into a nearby fish pond.
To prevent: Preen; spread every three months will prevent seed germination. It will not prevent growth from rhizomes (self generating root segments). You will want to spread the granules so that five or six cover a square inch. Do not use in areas where chickens graze. It will not damage any new seedling trees or small potted plants put in later.
If you have a problem with rhizomes, do as I did. I dug everything up and removed the top six inches (rhizomes can penetrate and survive 18 or more inches down), put down a double layer of overlapping cardboard boxes, a layer of newspaper about six pages thick, backfilled with new compost. The paper barrier lasts about 4~5 years before completely decomposing, but it only takes 2 ½ ~ 3 years to suffocate the rhizomes. I did this about 8~9 years ago for the front half of my front yard and have not had a problem since.
Tom Trigg
Thanks for the info, But the weeds have to grow for now since I'm not allowed to play in the rain ( forcast for NEXT 7 days is RAIN )
dwbeckett Thanks for the info, But the weeds have to grow for now since I'm not allowed to play in the rain ( forcast for NEXT 7 days is RAIN ) Dave
Looks like the weeds got a seven day repreve. Leaves need to be dry for a couple of days for Roundup to work at it's best. Preen can go down wet or dry.
You can use a brush and paint the roundup on the plant, that way you are not using too much that will spread to the nearby plants. I use Preen also and have found it very beneficial, get it on early in the spring is the key. It won't do anything about grasses though.
Jerry
web site:
http://thescrr.com/
Update:
I Konw there is track someware But more rain in the forcast, Had 3+ in the last week or so........
Rhizomes yes i think thats what I have, lots of roots even under rocks. So If pull them, then cover with plastic bags, then cover with rock that should work.
Dave before yanking the weeds spray them with roundup. Then leave it sit over night and yank in the morning, that way if any roots stay behind they will be poisoned on top of the requirement to re-generate. Then put down your barrier and rocks.
Glenn
Steam on the Bel Del Dave before yanking the weeds spray them with roundup. Then leave it sit over night and yank in the morning, that way if any roots stay behind they will be poisoned on top of the requirement to re-generate. Then put down your barrier and rocks. Glenn
I Think it would do more good to pull the weeds, spray with weed killer, then cover and rock?
The way roundup works it goes into the plant and kills it, if you yank the weeds first there is no plant part showing to spray the roundup on. Spraying roundup on the ground doesn't kill weeds, it must be on the weed. when you yank out a weed part of the root stays behind and will regenerate another weed. This will grow under the barrier and maybe find a way through to the surface.
What I didn't say is, we get this type of weed in different areas of the yard that have been dug up and leveled. last year it was all delta grass after the rains stopped. This year's crop has a ton of roots all within a 1/2 to one inch of the serface and when pulled they come out like mat. Since I am going to bag and rock this area anyway. I Shoud only get few that have blow-over the fence next year in a totaly differant area of the yard. Last year I only had delta grass to content with...........
BTY I have even pulled some out of two potted trees that only have potting soil in the pots.
Extract all the weeds, spray the area with vinegar, and then I lay down a minimum 3 layer thick newsprint barrier wetting down the newsprint with vinegar to keep it from lifting up from any breeze and adding to the 'weed' barrier concept.
doug c
It's been a while since I've been on the forum, but I do have a couple of suggestions.
While Glyphosphates such as Roundup/Erasure kill weeds and grasses with non-woody stems they have little or no residual killing capability. In fact Roundup becomes inert when it contacts the soil. The Glyphosphates must contact and dry on the plant leaves to be absorbed.
Second leave the glyphosphate on the weeds for several days before pulling the weeds out. the effect of pulling in only a day does not allow the chemical to work into the root system effectively, and therefore you get regrowth from broken tap roots.
To get a longer residual effect Preen has a good weed/grass germination retarding effect but will wash out of the soil with irrigation/rain. To get a longer term effect weed killer like Pramitol or Ortho Groundclear can be sprayed very narrowly on the ballasted area of your railway. Both are general purpose weed killers that can be used on path ways, road edges and parking lots to eliminate all growth for up to a year.They are very good at the job, but with heavy watering and rain may leach on/in to areas that you want to have plants and that ain't good.
Other selective weed killers like Ornamec, Milestone, Remedy, MSMA, atrazine and 2,4,D can kill broadleaf weeds and grasses while not harming many of the turf and flowering species. But application at recommended rates and managing wind drift are key.
I'm about to kill out broadleafs and all existing noxious grasses on two tracts of approximately 16 and 8 acres for some clients, then plow and seed in improved pasture and native grasses. I'll hit them with the glyphosphate about the 1st of the month plow a week later, and seed the same day or next day depending on daylight and weather. I leave the glyphosphate a week to ensure a good root kill since on of the weeds is Johnson grass.
Between the chemical and a plow I should get about 85% kill, but just disturbing the soil will bring dormant seeds up for germination and once the planted grasses are established (roughly 120-150 days) we'll go back in and spray Milestone/MSMA to kill out the weeds and grasses that come back from seed.
Good luck with your project
Mark
Dave, Consider making a weed control car. I fill mine up with Roundup and run it over the mainline every other week or so. Keeps my rails free and clear. As far as the rest, I agree with the rest that spraying roundup several days before pulling the weeds, seems to work satisfactory.
Regards,
M. Gilger - President and Chief Engineer MM&G web
Web Site: http://mmg-garden-rr.webs.com/
Mark: Like the conept, make the train do the "weed control" work! Is it just a drip system? or is it a spray?
On Roundup, it kills by traveling to the root tip. If you pull the weeds before this has happened (and it's longer than 2 days!) you have just wasted your time.
The new stuff with the "24 hour kill" burns the top foliage off, but that is not indicative that roundup has done the job.
If you use roundup, wait the up to 2 weeks for it to completely kill and desiccate the weeds.
It's just a drip system. Could not presurize the tank car. So multiple passes are required. I can just about make 1 loop around the minline before filling. So 2-3 refills do the trick. I do have to admit that when I'm lazy, which seems to be more and more, a spray bottle works good also.
Now if I could just figure out how to do the same thing with Preen dispenser. I also use this. Heck if I can tell if it's working, or not, but it's supposed to help.
Maybe strong sunshine has something to do with it, but I have found bleach to be a good weed killer here in Arizona, especially on a bright, sunny day. The cheaper it is the better it seems to work. I get a no-brand name jug from one of the dollar stores and apply with a garden sprayer.
My wife uses white vinegar right from the bottle, seems to control most weeds that start in between the patio bricks, walks, etc.
Walt
The Home of Articulated Ugliness
Does anyone know how long you have to wait, after spraying Roundup, before you can plant anything in the same area? I have an area I just cleared out, but have a pesky plant that keeps coming back. Before I plant something else in the area, I was thinking about applying some roundup to make sure it's all killed off before replanting. Should I wait, say 1 week, maybe 2? I would hate to replant to early and have my new plants start absorbing it and then die off.
Thanks,
The application instructions on Roundup say it takes 1 to 2 weeks for a complete kill of the undesirable plant, so it seems to me that you would have to wait at least 2 weeks before replanting something in the same area.
Mark: If you've got a weed that keeps coming up, try waiting longer next time you "kill" it before pulling it up. I spray on Sunday, dig it up on Saturday, plant on Sunday. Not necessarily in adjacent weeks.
As to your question, Roundup attacks living vegetation, is inert in the dirt.
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