Trains.com

Hobo Speeder CLOWN CAR concept car.

6239 views
15 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Hobo Speeder CLOWN CAR concept car.
Posted by ttrigg on Sunday, January 31, 2010 12:55 AM

I found this goodie over on the ultimate “bashers site” http://thereifixedit.com/ .  I’m thinking this might make for a “scratch-bashed” hobo speeder.

I’m thinking to power it with a small can motor powered by one or two AA batteries as there is not much room to hide much mechanisms and it not go very fast. If I do build this it will be my first scratch build “rail equipment.” As this is still in my “concept phase” and am not ready to start building it I’m looking for comments and ideas on how to drive this contraption. Any thoughts out there as how to link the can motor to a drive axle?  I’m thinking of actually using wooden (maybe plastic to look like wood) wheels. Any ideas where a small dummy engine can be found? Are there any supply shops where I could get a set of functioning gears and drive chain (scale bicycle chain)?  I guess what I'm saying is, "guys, I need some helping guidance from some of you Master Bashers."

 

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Peak District UK
  • 809 posts
Posted by cabbage on Sunday, January 31, 2010 2:37 AM

 Well -I will see what I can do!

Cambrian Models make parts for "Lister" and "Simplex" type locomotives.

http://www.cambrianmodels.co.uk/

 IP engineering make parts that could be used as well.

http://www.ipengineering.co.uk/

Have a look at their "Home Builder Parts" and  "Diesel and Petrol Loco Kit Range" sections.

regards

ralph

The Home of Articulated Ugliness

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 45 posts
Posted by GaryR on Sunday, January 31, 2010 8:04 AM

 ttrigg,

   I'm thinking gear box from electric  model air craft and O ring drive belts. HobbyPeople might be a place to start.  Hmmmm, wood around the can motor with a few old Cox engine cylinders glued to it. Smile

My 2 ¢

GaryR

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: The English Riviera, South Devon, England
  • 475 posts
Posted by Great Western on Sunday, January 31, 2010 2:59 PM

 What an interesting contraption.  I wonder how the transfer of power was achieved. 

The small petrol (gas) engine looks very similar to a small Honda one that I have seen used as a portable pump,  It was carried on some UK fire trucks for a while but as it was of fixed output i.e. 35psi (2.41 Bars) it  was not very versatile.

Alan, Oliver & North Fork Railroad

https://www.buckfast.org.uk/

If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there. Lewis Carroll English author & recreational mathematician (1832 - 1898)

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Smoggy L.A.
  • 10,743 posts
Posted by vsmith on Monday, February 1, 2010 12:32 AM
This looks like it will be fun to watch Yeah!!

   Have fun with your trains

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Monday, February 1, 2010 6:50 PM

Vic: I’m kinda leery about scratch building a drive mechanism for this puppy. I’m starting to think about using a B’man handcar as a base. If I do that then I’ll loose the wooden wheels, which would detract from the overall looks. You got any ideas?

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Peak District UK
  • 809 posts
Posted by cabbage on Tuesday, February 2, 2010 10:21 PM

 Why do you have to start off with something already built? Start with the basics (which is something HE obviously did) of two sides and 2 axles. The wheels can be made from stacks of washers covered with strips from lollipop sticks. The power drive is a simple spur gear and worm wheel. You then have to "tack" on the drive from the axle to the washing mangle and then the chain to the "motor" to complete the visual effect.

 Any model is as hard as you want to make it -me I prefer the easy way!

regards

ralph

The Home of Articulated Ugliness

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, February 3, 2010 1:23 AM

Let the fun begin!

 

For this project I was not too keen about constructing a power train to drive the contraption.  So I selected a ’39 Chevy Coup Radio Controlled car from Wal-Mart for $6 as the basis to build upon.

Things got complicated when I got this “GFI” when I saw this picture at one of my favorite comedy sites.

So now my Hobo Speeder is going to have a trailer for the “tail gunner”.  DA BOSS said that this should be a clown car to precede the circus coming to town.  So instead of being called “hobo car” we are now calling it a “clown car.”

The body lifts off with 4 screws.  The motor/battery box cover comes off.

Revealing the drive motor and “electronics panel”.  The motor just pops out intact without any problems, along with the “on/off” switch.

Tomorrow I will be cutting out the battery box.  I left the steering servo intact as that just might have possibilities for something, but what I don’t know.  You guys got any ideas?

I found the perfect wooden wheels in DA Boss's sewing room, wooded thread spools, one large and one small, just got to talk her into putting that thread somewhere else.  I’ve got a bunch of “craft sticks” for dimensional lumber, for the logs (rough cut lumber) I’ll be trimming back the rose bushes this weekend.

For the trailer, I’m thinking a single axle shorty “flat car”.  I’m thinking that the steering servo could be used for some kind of animation on the trailer.  You guys got any ideas?

For our brothers overseas, "GFI" = "Great Freak'n Idea". 

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, February 3, 2010 1:31 AM

cabbage
Any model is as hard as you want to make it -me I prefer the easy way!

Ralph:  When I step off into stupidity, I go for the gusto. I’ve never had any luck keeping gears in alignment when I build the item.  If this thing is to work, I need to start with a solid drive system.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Arizona (high country 7k ft) USA
  • 676 posts
Posted by Rex in Pinetop on Wednesday, February 3, 2010 10:00 AM

Tom,

I like your RC car concept.  That way you already have the controls and battery which are way more than $6.  How long does the car run on a battery charge?

Rex

  • Member since
    June 2006
  • From: Oakley Ca
  • 1,407 posts
Posted by dwbeckett on Wednesday, February 3, 2010 11:38 AM

And I thought I didn't have any gas money.......LaughSmile,Wink, & Grin

The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Wednesday, February 3, 2010 6:37 PM

Rex in Pinetop
Tom, I like your RC car concept.  That way you already have the controls and battery which are way more than $6.  How long does the car run on a battery charge? Rex

Batteries not included.  Takes 2 AA for the controller and 3 AA for the car.  I mean "what you expect for six bucks anyway?"  I could have gone with a $30~$50 car that had all the "good stuff", but I elected to go the cheap route, especially since I don't plan on running this "Rube Goldberg" that much.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Arizona (high country 7k ft) USA
  • 676 posts
Posted by Rex in Pinetop on Friday, February 5, 2010 12:59 AM

Hey even better.  You don't have to mess with battery chargers or all the extra stuff that goes with that headache.  I like it!

Rex

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, February 18, 2010 12:26 AM

OK guys, need an idea or two here.  I’m having a bit of trouble getting the wheels aligned correctly to the axles.  I’ve got a couple of sewing thread spools cut down as wheels and they seem to want to work.  The problem is getting them centered on the axles.  I’ve tried “heat shrink tubing”, wood putty filing and jamming the axles in.  Using my test frame to run test the wheels, the wheels work well for about 20ft, then they start to seriously wobble so bad that they throw the test car completely off the rails.  I’ve crushed three different attempts at the body of the car as they look entirely to “uniform” and not a “bash up”.  Son in law gave an idea this weekend that will try later.  Going to switch from craft sticks to rose bush branches and twigs.

Tom Trigg

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Peak District UK
  • 809 posts
Posted by cabbage on Thursday, February 18, 2010 1:34 AM
The problem is not getting them centred -but rather them wanting to move from centre... Try this: Wrap fine fabric round your axles until the fabric windings are larger than your axle hole in your wheel. Jam the assembly together. This "should" self centre. Next step is to apply thing CA to the fabric "bush". This sets in the fabric leaving you with a solid hub axle combination. This technique was used by my late father when he had to move and "modify" glider dropped equipment in Burma except he used hot melt wood glue and sacking!!! regards ralph

The Home of Articulated Ugliness

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: North, San Diego Co., CA
  • 3,092 posts
Posted by ttrigg on Thursday, February 18, 2010 8:43 PM

Thanks Ralph, sounds like that just might do the trick.  I will give it a try next week, when I get a chanch to continue the project.

Tom Trigg

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month

By signing up you may also receive occasional reader surveys and special offers from Garden Railways magazine. Please view our privacy policy