Experiences with Code 250 track and switches using track power

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I am looking for experiences -- both good and bad -- with code 250 track and
switches from Llagas or Sunset Valley on outdoor layouts with track power.

This summer I plan to finally get started with my garden railroad. So far I couldn't
make up my mind on what kind of track to use. The main reason I am interested
in Llagas and Sunset Valley is their large selection of turnouts. More common
brands such as LGB and Aristo have a very limited selection of switches if one
is not interested in small radius toy train like turnouts, like I am.

So, my main questions are:

- Long term reliability of track and turnouts, i.e. are turnouts still working after,
say, 5 or more years of outdoor use in a climate with temperatures from -15
degrees to +35 degrees celsius ? Does the track hold up, ie. are the rails
still firmly attached to the ties ? Do the plastic fins that hold the rails on the ties
tend to become brittle and break ?

- Electrical conductivity of nickle silver rail. Code 250 has a smaller cross
section than code 332 rail, so the electrical resistance is higher. Is this
noticable for practical purposes ? I expect my layout (eventually) to be
about 300 meters long (point-to-point, no closed loop), with power fed
in the middle.

As for the roadbed, I plan to build it from cast concrete. Track will be fixated
loosely every 3 meters, such that it can move a few millimeters as the rails
expand or contract with changes in temparature.

I'm grateful for any hints.

Kind Regards

Michael Hirsch
Berg am Irchel, Switzerland

[RhB_HJ]

Grüezi Michael,


Llagas Creek is very good both mfg tolerances and how well it will stand up.

There are mixed reports on Sunset Valley regarding the UV resistance but the Swiss sun intensity isn't quite the same as Arizona's [;)][;)]

LC's track has a better tie pattern for NorthAmerican narrow gauge

Hope that helps.

BTW there was a write up in the June 2001 GR on track from different mfgs.

Oops forgot, the crossection of Code250 is still more than twice as much (checked on ME Code250 rail) as AWG#10 wire which is recommended for heavy duty bus wire on GRRs, what you have to watch out for is good connections at the joints, best with railclamps.

[RhB_HJ]

Oooooops once more.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

[#welcome][#welcome]

[bman36]

Hi Michael,
Just wanted to welcome you to the forum! Sorry I can't help on your track questions since I do not have any experience with these lines. Enjoy the forum. Keep asking questions and we'll try to answer! Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

Michael I cant help you I don't use 250 and never will, 332 is what i will always use but too each his own. Unless you have a very good reason for using anything but brass track don't, poor conductivity, hard to join, more expensive just to name a few, don't try and reinvent the wheel.

I have visited Switzerland and I lived in Sydney at the time, which in many peoples opinion is the most beautiful city on Earth, however if that is so, then Grindelwold is the prettiest town, we just loved it. hope you live somewhere near there. My son Leon is married to a Swiss French lady, she was one Alisa Fumeaux. Are you a German or French or Italian Suisse. Loved Lucern but hated Zurich.


Regards


Ian; Kawana Island etc.

[RhB_HJ]

QUOTE: Originally posted by iandor

Snip......... Unless you have a very good reason for using anything but brass track don't, poor conductivity, hard to join, more expensive just to name a few, don't try and reinvent the wheel.

......................
Loved Lucern but hated Zurich.

Regards

Ian; Kawana Island etc.

Ian,[;)]

How's your German? You need to hang out on the German fora where they have all the good threads about the StainlessSteel track. It's the cat's meow, if I could have found the right rail size when I started I would have gone with SS.
Have a look at this stuff
http://train.li/produkte/Edelstahlgeleise/uebersicht.htm

As far as conductivity is concerned nickelsilver is better than brass. The crossection of Code250 is mote than twice that of AWG #10 wire.
The fly in the ointment is always the railjoint, doesn't matter which rail material it is
BTW the oxide on brass is one of the best insulators and depending on climate it can be a real bear.

Now on that last remark: What a way to talk about my hometown (Zürich).....eh!?!
You didn't trip over any gnomes,did you[?][?] [;)][:D][:D][:D]

[jpmikesh]

QUOTE: Originally posted by hirschmichael

Hi,

I am looking for experiences -- both good and bad -- with code 250 track and
switches from Llagas or Sunset Valley on outdoor layouts with track power.

So, my main questions are:

- Long term reliability of track and turnouts, i.e. are turnouts still working after,
say, 5 or more years of outdoor use in a climate with temperatures from -15
degrees to +35 degrees celsius ? Does the track hold up, ie. are the rails
still firmly attached to the ties ? Do the plastic fins that hold the rails on the ties
tend to become brittle and break ?

- Electrical conductivity of nickle silver rail. Code 250 has a smaller cross
section than code 332 rail, so the electrical resistance is higher. Is this
noticable for practical purposes ? I expect my layout (eventually) to be
about 300 meters long (point-to-point, no closed loop), with power fed
in the middle.

As for the roadbed, I plan to build it from cast concrete. Track will be fixated
loosely every 3 meters, such that it can move a few millimeters as the rails
expand or contract with changes in temparature.

I'm grateful for any hints.

Kind Regards

Michael Hirsch
Berg am Irchel, Switzerland

Hi Mr. Hirsch,

I have been using Llagas Creek rail for my garden railway for over 10 years now. I hand laid my track on mostly redwood and some cedar ties. I used some Llagas creek switches in the beginning and now build my own when needed. The Llagas Creek switches come with metal frogs so the switch will have to be isolated as not so short circuit the track. I do believe that Llagas Creek does sell switches with insulated frogs now.

I have never used code 332 for track power so I can not make a comparison between the two for track power. I solder jumper wires at each rail joint to get to ensure continuity like bonding wires on a real railroad rail joint for signaling systems. They do sell electric past to put in the joints to keep dirt out and help with continuity, I didn't do this. I did run a power line using low voltage lighting wire under my road bed with one electric connection about every 18 feet ( every 3 lengths of rail) to the track. When I build my next garden railway I will most likely use code 250 again nickel silver rail again. I haven't found anything yet that runs on 332 rail that couldn't be run on code 250. What would keep me from using this again is lack of time for building hand Laid track. Llagas Creek and does sell plastic tie strips now and they do appear to hold up fairly well from what I have seen.

My roadbed I used stone dust and crusher fines. I have used some concrete road bed. A gentle man by the name of Marty Cozad who has written some articles and has lots of information on using concrete road bed. He can be contacted through this forum for more information and help.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

John