Hi What power supply and controller are you using? One thing to try is with your multi meter set on DC currant power up track and you put a probe on each track, you should see 22v DC or may be a bit more move around the track and teast a few places you should see the same reading at all points. If your track is ok then clen loco wheels and pickups. Just had a thought check any turnouts as some times solder joints under neath are not good. Hope this helps
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
IRB Souther EngineerI am just finishing my railway and decided to run a train this morning. Nothing will run more than 2 feet! It is depressing to watch the train slowly stop and start even on high power. I cleaned the rails, and I have Hillman's joiners on almost every track with what locks like a very good connection. Can anyone help me?!
This is a problem worth question's
1: are your power connections tight?
2. what size wire are you using?
3. is one of your power leads broken?
4. is your power pack large enough for your RR?
5. Have you tryed a differant engine?
6. have you tryed runing on a test track?
7. did you test your track work/wiring as you as you built it?
8. Have you checked for crossed track feeder wires?
A track diagrame would help to I D some potential problem area's.......
Dave
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
Hi Glad we could be of help thats what we are here for, shame its all your turnouts but it dosent take long to fix. Them all power ahead
IRB Souther EngineerThanks for the help. A friend came over and tested the track just to find the switches were shorting out. The switches were very old and the guy took them to work on. This is unfortunate because I have 5 switches and they all need repair. Now I cannot run a full lap with a train because of the gaps in the track. Just another reason to go with battery power!
Where you located....maybe I could help you out a bit too, I'm an FGRS member here, in central division...That's Florida Garden Railroad Society.....let me know...
I too run track power and lots of it too... also lots of switches ....check my line out on YouTube, type in Empire 2 Line....E-mail me if you'd like to....
Byron
IRB:
Would you mind sharing the model and manufacturer of your switches? There are tips and techniques for most switches, but they differ by manufacturer.
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Greg Elmassian IRB: Would you mind sharing the model and manufacturer of your switches? There are tips and techniques for most switches, but they differ by manufacturer.
The turnouts are Aristocraft.
I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on which manufacturer makes better quality switches: LGB or Aristocraft( and has LGB gone out of business?.
Train Li is now importing some of the best track around (all made in Gerrmany).
http://www.train-li-usa.com/store/around-track-c-54.html
-Brian
Say IRB,
Why not come and join us at an up coming train show at the Volusia County Fairgrounds, on January, 9th and 10th, meet some new people, get in the club, and have local input and help.....we always like new faces and friends....we'll be setting up a layout for the show, begining on Friday the 8th, at about 9am.
Maybe see you there.....
IRB (you can post your first name if you want)
There are 3 types of Aristo turnouts, a 4' diameter one, a 10' diameter called a "Wide Radius", and a #6 switch, about 3 foot long.
I see you have a friend helping you, but I do have tips on the last 2 switches on improving them.
They can be made to operate pretty well. The components and materials are not of the quality of LGB.
Try my site:
http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/track-mainmenu-93/aristo-track
The above link will take you to my Aristo track section, look at the menu on the left, you will see several topics on the different switches and how to make them better.
Regards, Greg
Here's my two cents.
I spent about two years perfecting my layout. I made all the mistakes and then some. However, I am at the point where, even after the Winter, I am able to run the trains merely by wiping off the rails and running an Aristo track cleaning car around a few times.
So, what did I do? I pulverized all the weeds. I have a deep stone base of 3/8 inch red rustic gravel, over weed retardant material, augmented by chicken grit. IF a weed dares to appear, I have a high grade defoliation liquid and spray it right away. They don't come back. My ROW (right of way) is slightly elevated for drainage and looks, but is essentially ground level. I use clamps and I have a few jumper wires. I also watch the power shoes, to make sure there is good contact with the rails (I run LGB and Maerklin gauge 1).I also bought an Aristo track level, because the track has to be level, in a three-dimensional sense.
So, I am delighted and enthusiasm is high. The problem with the battery approach IMO is the extra weight in the cars and the need to recharge the batteries. However, I am satisfied with running the trains electrically and, this Winter, for the first time, I will try Winter operations. That is how confident I am.
But, like you, I had all kinds of problems (my favorite was the dance the locos used to do: stop, start, go a bit, stop, start, etc.). Those days are long gone.
Best,
Mark
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