I have looked for and read the other posts regarding RC conversion for the LGB Genisis and although informative, I still lack my answer to my question that I am going to post here.
Ok, I have a LGB Genisis phase 5 that I am converting to RC using the Aristo trackside TE 27mhz and Aristo 21.5volt battery.
I want to state that I have the set up working, but there are problems.
This is what I did:
I opened up the motor blocks and took out the pick up connections so the connection to any possible track power is gone.
I did some messing around, and found that if I take the aristo battery and directly connect it to the plug at the back of the engine shell, the lights come on and the motors run. I was pretty happy to find that out and that this was going to be an easy RC conversion.
I set the 27mhz TE up in a second Genisis engine that I have taken the motor blocks right out of. I had the output from the TE go to the onboard pc board in the dummy and also out shell engine through the back end jack. I then connected that jack to the jack at the end of the motorized engine. The two engines are now back to back, the motorized engine will push or pull and the dummy will be there to carry the battery and receiver. How could this be any easier? by the way the TE was set to analog not Pulse.
So I tested it and it worked.
Brought the engine to the tracks and sat back and started the train up. it ran for 50 second and then stopped. The motorized engine stopped and all the lights went out. the dummy engine still had lights.
I was thinking that it was an output issue from the TE.
I could get the engine to run again by turning the TE off, waiting about 1minute and then turning it back on. but each time, the engine would stop after say 40 seconds.
The next time we used the train, I forgot the transmitter. my son, who this train really belongs to, was upset, but I told him not all is lost, we can hook the battery up directly to the wires I have connected to the back jack of the dummy. so the battery sends the juice directly out the back of the dummy skipping the TE, now that made the engine run full blast, but it wasnt an issue as we had 3 passenger cars between the two engines and the speed although quick was not overly fast, it was just fine. Well, the engine would run for just over a minute maybe 2. then stop. This was not expected, So now I knew it wasnt the TE at least.
I failed to do the research before the next time we were to use his engine, so i spent a few hours messing around with the set up. I set the whole train up on the dinning room table, lifted the motorized engine up so the wheels could spin without pulling the whole train off the table. I then proceeded to mess around. The motorized engine continued to stop operations after 50 seconds. I again tested the direct battery to the back plug of the motorized engine, and it would run for ever. So, I decided that it had something to do with my wiring which had connections at the ends of each passenger car.
I then took my TE out of the dummy. I had made a custom wire set up so that the output from the TE could plug directly into the LGB Pc board. how I did this was in the process of taking the dummy apart I found that the plug from the back of the engine runs directly into the on board PC Board. Since I was going to send my power OUT this back side jack, I didnt need the wire running from the jack into the dummy's PC board, so I disconnected that and had that small wire and plug go from the TE's output.
I still had this little custom wire. So now I took the TE with battery and on the motorized engine, I unplugged the wire that came from the back side jack to the onboard PC board. I then took my output wire from the TE and went into the PC Board using my wire from the dummy, so I plugged right in.
I then tested it out.
It ran.....and ran....and ran....it didnt want to stop. I was convinced it was a wire issue of mine. I just let this set up run for a bit, about 5 minutes, I did stops, changed directions, full speed, half speed, you name it. It worked with no complaints. I was so relieved, I had it solved. I had not altered this engine other than taking out the power pick ups from the motor blocks, so the TE was a tight fit but it did and so I closed it all up and was happy.
We ran his engine the next day at a show. we got it all set on the tracks, and sent if off. it ran for 40 seconds.
I just dropped.
I turned the TE off. took out 1 passenger car. turned the TE back on and started the engine off again. 40 seconds, stop. Turn it off, take out another passenger car. turn back on, run, 40 seconds. turn off, take out the last passenger car. turn on, run, 2 minutes, stop. take the dummy off. turn off, turn on, start up. ran for 15 minutes and I could have gone longer if i wanted to, but others wanted the track.
So, I did some looking and saw some people mention bypassing the onboard PC board.
why does it need to be bypassed?
Is that all I need to do too?
Now, the very first time his engine was run, it was run under track power and was fine. Another time it was run, again under track power, the tracks were powered by an Aristo TE 27mhz trackside. it ran pulling 2 passenger cars and ran fine for 20 minutes sustained.
Can I solder my output wires from the TE to the motor blocks that would originally pick up power from the track? that way all the lights are controlled by the PC Board automatically.
I do have a Sierra sound board that I wish to one day hook up too, I already have the Aristo box needed. Will the addition of the sound accessory box add complexity to the wiring? and with it, should I really just skip the LGB pc board and wire the lights directly to the accessory box?
I think that is what I will need to do.
thanks in advance
Kevin
I think you have a loco where one of the motor leads is permanently connected to one of the track pickups, inside the motor block.
Does your motor block have 3 leads or 4?
I alerted JC, who did a conversion recently.
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Kevin,
I hope to post a thread on installing a QSI into a Genesis, bypassing the LGB PCB entirely. Although you are using the Revo, I think my thread will answer most of your questions about lights, motor and track pickups. I hope to post it here and on MLS on Sunday.
In the meantime, maybe this picture of a modified JST plug l connected to the LGB motor/track plug might give you a head start.
JimC
See this link for the complete direct wiring thread on the Genesis.
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/t/163247.aspx
JimC.
I don't know if the 27MHZ TE has an electronic circuit breaker or some sort of current limiting circuit. But the fact that the engine seems to run O.K. for a short period of time before shutting down sounds like an overload problem. Have you checked to see if the TE receiver can deliver the amount of current required by this locomotive?
Interesting problem, let us know what you find.
Walt
The 27mhz Trackside-TE is rated at 10A. The QSI I used with this loco is rated about 1/3 of that. The T-TE should have no problem running this loco.
To do an install of the TTE into the Genesis, simply cut the two center wires from each of the 4-wire heavy plugs, splice them correspondingly [do ohm test to determine left with left pickups, and right with right] and to the output wires from the TTE. That done, you should have motor control, all lights operational in a factory mode, and the LGB PCB sound output should drive your Soundtraxx, Dallee, or Phoenix sound board. If you choose to install a smoke unit, there is a place for it to plug into on the LGB board also.
I have done a similiar install to this in my LGB Mikado and a TTE with very satisfactory results.
Jim Carter
Well, after several months of dormancy, the LGB got dragged out and looked over.
I pulled the plug that goes from the main board to the rear truck. I soldered my output power wires from the TE to the two outside wires, I found these to be the connections that get the power from the track. I hooked it all back together and it works perfectly now. What I learned is that the connector on the back of the loco is intended to be an output power wire...I was sending power in at that connector. I was overloading the board so it was shutting down.
All is good in the world for my son, who now has his Amtrak empire running again.
I'm glad you got it working to your satisfaction. Have fun running it. It is a strong puller.
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