Kitbashing a styrene caboose

[Anonymous]

Hi all,

I have a MDC styrene caboose. It's basically a short D&RGW caboose with the copula in the middle. I'm thinking I'd like to convert it into a little logging caboose by shortening one end so that the cupola is near that end instead of in the middle. I've never done this before. Any advice? What's the best way to cut the darned thing so that I can put the end back on and it will look decent? I figure the caboose didn't cost me much to begin with, so I'm willing to experiment a bit. Can a Dremel be used for this sort of thing? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Curt

[Anonymous]

Hi Curt, welcome to the forum - lots of advice here.
I cut down an LGB Rio Grande bobber caboose years ago to fit onto a flat. I had the option of using electric or hand power and I opted for the latter. For me the main thing was the setting out of the task and making sure that everything was-or near as damn it-square. The cut was made with a very well used junior hacksaw blade that wouldn't touch metal but was good for plastic together with a very slow action and some filing afterwards. I didn't touch the chassis so I can't really say anything on that except you will have to be exact with it to get it running true. Good luck and enjoy.
Cheers,
Kim
[tup]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by kimbrit

Hi Curt, welcome to the forum - lots of advice here. For me the main thing was the setting out of the task and making sure that everything was-or near as damn it-square. The cut was made with a very well used junior hacksaw blade that wouldn't touch metal but was good for plastic together with a very slow action and some filing afterwards.

Hello Curt, Welcome
Kim is so right here. Square and junior hacksaw. Or any saw that is thin bladed.
But Kim stressed dam square and trust me it better be or alot of work will be ahead of you.
Happy Caboose Bash[:D]

[Anonymous]

Hi
Definatly hand tools for plastics power tools of any kind tend to run too fast and melt there way through rather than cut.
For the chassis make damed sure the cuts are square a boxsquare ?? would be handy
It looks like a precision ground piece of angle with chamfered edges.
This can be used to make sure the chassis is straight.
I think I would go as far as using it to clamp the frame to with ruberband clamps to keep the frame straght as the cement dries.
You will also need to plate the joints in the frame and I would sugest doing the body as well the styrene plates go on the inside where they are not seen they will strengthen the joints and if there are any slight alignment problems they will compesate to a small degree for them the joints are then filled with model filler and painted..
Check and double check befor aplying any glue and measure three times and cut once
have fun regards John

[bman36]

Hi Curt,
Welcome to the forum! You will definately want to think this through before you start. Anything can be done but the question is is it worth the effort? Take your time and study the caboose for where the best possible spot would be to cut. Pay close attention to the underside as well. This will also determine where to do this. Most of all...have fun! Don't get bent outa' shape if all does not go as planned. Like I said...take your time. All the best and enjoy the forum! Later eh...Brian.

[vsmith]

I shortened a Bachmann Bobber in a similar manner. I used an Xacto razor saw, the one that comes with the miter box. The most important thing is the alignment of the cuts in the frame and the body. the cut MUST be equal. I made sure that where I planned to cut the body was along the scibes of the wood siding, then i made sure I could take out the same amount of area on the frame. Make sure where you cut isnt going to compromise the car. IOW cutting the frame too close to the bolsters and messing up the truck mounting. You can plan on some underside detailing being lost or remounted. The toughest task I had was cutting the roof in two places. I cut the end panels off the body a little past the inside surface of the ends, making sure the scribe markes were identical on both sides PRIOR to cuting, I sawed up the scribe lines to the roof, here it gets tricky. I used a flexble metal ruler and an xacto knife to scribe a guide line across the roof from one cut to the other then CAREFULLY sawed thru on the guide line.I then did a similar cut at the scribe lines next to the cupola on both side and then again guide line and saw thru the roof. Once cut, I then reattached the end panel to the body being most carefull with the roof alignment. I then did the frame, using the new body to determine the cut, once cut and reattached with some thin wood reinforcing strips on top the car went together using the same mounting screws. These are just guidelines of how I did the bachmann bobber. The MDC might require more planning, especially if the roof is a seperate element. Good Luck.

[Anonymous]

Curt, I don't know what your MDC caboose looks like but have you considered moving the cupola without cutting up the body.
If the roof is a separate casting only three cuts would be needed. One behind the back wall to preserve the roof overhang on the end plus one cut on either side of the cupola. Move the cupola back to the end then move the small roof section in front of the cupola. Before gluing the parts together trim or sand the cut edges at an angle about half the thickness of the plastic. This will give you a "V" groove at each joint in the roof. Glue the roof sections together and for added strength glue a strip of styrene under each joint. Fill the "V" groove with body putty, let cure then sand smooth.

May all your weeds be wild flowers ...... OLD DAD

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the good advice, guys. I haven't decided yet whether to do this, but I'll let you know how it turns out if I do!

Curt