Complete battery power and radio control set?

[Anonymous]

Does anyone know of a complete ready to run, every thing in one kit radio control set. I have read many manufactures and it seams they all require somthing else to make what you purchase from them work, RCS, Locolink etc. Either I just need a partial lombotomy to understand what it is they market or some detailed instructions of what they have in laymens terms.

[TonyWalsham]

Matt,

I am away from home for 10 days but if you care to contact me offline I will put you in contact with someone who can supply what you want when I return.

Best wishes,

Tony Walsham (RCS). [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

Hi
Try the Atristo Craft CRE-55492 On-board Rx plus TX 75mhz Train Engineer along with the Cre-55495 Accessory board to trigger sound board .
You may want to check out ,the CRE9001 it is A how to guide on the Train Engineer that will give you a wealh of info as well as prov-en applications with battery mode

I use 6 Train engines unsing this system and continue to expand .
By Far the most cost effective way to radio control as well as both onbord Battery and or track power mode
Atristo-Craft tech support is Excellent by me .
Check out thier site
http://www.aristocraft.com

[TonyWalsham]

Unfortunately not all LS locos are the same. So there cannot be a one size fits all R/C system.
Some rquire high power R/C throttles that are bigger than others.
Smaller locos do not need the extra power so they can use the smaller throttles.
If you already have twin stick ground R/C you can save quite a bit of money and get into battery R/C for under US$70 plus batteries and wiring.
Even a complete new TX, RX, Throttle system is less than US$100 plus batteries and wiring.
Some sound systems require an interface for use with PWM throttles. This applies to ALL of the on board R/C throttles
EG. If you are using a Sierra sound with an onboard throttle and you wi***o use the traction batteries to power the sound instead of the battery supplied with Sierra, you must use an opto coupler interface to isolate the PWM from the sneak path back to ground. Otherwise the sound will go to "run" position and stay there. Without an opto the Sierra cannot go back to the "at idle" position and activate the special effects like Fireman Fred.
An opto is not necesary with Dallee or P2k2 although the range of any R/C system is severely reduced with the P2k2 as it currently comes from Phoenix.

My RCS ELITE and most ACTION R/C EVO series throttles have built in sound triggers and do not require an additional relatively bulky plug in module for accessing sound triggers.

For those newbies to battery R/C who are not sure what they need to get started I recommend you either call or message me with your requirements and I will respond ASAP.

http://www.rcs-rc.com/

Best wishes,

Tony Walsham (RCS).

[Anonymous]

Tony, You were a big help to me. When my loco is purchased I will contact you then. Thanks for your help.

[Anonymous]

Tony:
Three years ago I thought of going G scale as I retired (I don't golf or bowl...), and wanted to use battery powered rolling stock with RC. No one would talk to me; 3 out of 4 local dealers went broke and disappeared. All 4 blew me off. I all but gave up. Yesterday I ran into this forum and hope is restored!!

I had laid some 200 ft of roadbed of crushed rock and coarse sand which is still there in spite of heavy rains -- needs some buildup now that I see ways to get/build RC and battery equipment -- but I would also like to consider plastic track to conserve costs on retirement income, perhaps to be able to afford better equipment when I'm ready for it. Do you have some views on that? I am a bit wary of solar degradation, though.

While building roadbed and laying track over the next few weeks/months, I'll be reading up on ESCs, RC, interfaces, etc. etc. so's to be able to ask intelligent questions. In my mind's eye, I'd like to start out with a Bachmann oldie with 5-6 oldie-type cars, then add on one of the freight diesels we see here in South Florida every day on the Florida East Coast (FEC).

Thanks for your help. Jack

[Anonymous]

Try www.rcs-rc.com.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jupiter

Tony:
Three years ago I thought of going G scale as I retired (I don't golf or bowl...), and wanted to use battery powered rolling stock with RC. No one would talk to me; 3 out of 4 local dealers went broke and disappeared. All 4 blew me off. I all but gave up. Yesterday I ran into this forum and hope is restored!!

I had laid some 200 ft of roadbed of crushed rock and coarse sand which is still there in spite of heavy rains -- needs some buildup now that I see ways to get/build RC and battery equipment -- but I would also like to consider plastic track to conserve costs on retirement income, perhaps to be able to afford better equipment when I'm ready for it. Do you have some views on that? I am a bit wary of solar degradation, though.




While building roadbed and laying track over the next few weeks/months, I'll be reading up on ESCs, RC, interfaces, etc. etc. so's to be able to ask intelligent questions. In my mind's eye, I'd like to start out with a Bachmann oldie with 5-6 oldie-type cars, then add on one of the freight diesels we see here in South Florida every day on the Florida East Coast (FEC).

Thanks for your help. Jack

Jupiter, Might try a search for feedback on the plastic track. If I recall correctly if you want to save on rail cost, bend your own and use the plastic tie strips. Aristocraft sells both of these. You can also use brass rail instead of stainless and never worry about cleaning due to the use of battery power, this will save cost to.

[Chompers]

im a newby[:I][:I][:I][:I][:I]

[Chompers]

OOPS[#oops][#oops][#oops][#oops][#oops][#oops]

Hit the wrong button.

I have no idea what i kneed what to get or any thing.

[TonyWalsham]

Hello Chompers.

I am sure any number of the posters here will be glad to help if you would kindly tell us what it is you are trying to do.

Best wishes,

Tony Walsham (RCS).

[mkblk]

OK. Had to jump on this forum. Recently picked up an old Bachmann 4-6-0 (no. 49) at a flea market for a few bucks. As usual, these old Bachmann's have fried gears. Fortunately Bachmann will repair (I think) these drives for $25.00. Bachmann had marketed a R/C version of this loco some years back but they were a failure and it seems no one has jumped in, commercially, to offer an updated, complete, battery R/C loco you can buy off-the-shelf ready to go.

Saw a photo of one converted with new running gear (after market) and very nice paint job. Problem is: $$$$$$. The conversion kit costs mucho dinero. The painting I can handle, but I would think that battery conversion can't be all that difficult. This loco comes with a large tender so battery storage shouldn't be a problem. I really would rather not reinvent the wheel. I would think this conversion has already been done numerous times. Seems like a good article for GR. Once battery power is accomplished, the next step could be an article on step by step installation of RC. Maybe kitbashing some old racecar or truck r/c of which there are many to be found, cheap.

MK

[Chompers]

Tony Walsham,

i'm pretty sure i know what i will need. I have a bachman spectrum mogul and an lgb c&s Mogul. The lgb mogul has a sound system in it, but the bachman mogul dosn't. i want an accucraft Ruby or a USA Gp-30.


I won't need the system right now because i don't have the money, and i only have 2 engines i can just use my DC power pack for now.

Chompers

[Anonymous]

Indeed, it seems to me that the Train Engineer is the most complete out-of-the-box solution, so it's quite attractive. However, I'm more interested in 1:32 scale rather than the 1:29 scale offered by Aristo (or am I confused?) So I'm still looking.

[Anonymous]

Cadreamers, Your're confused Aristo is 1:29[%-)][:)]

[Chompers]

Track requiorments,

finaly figured out the track plan! it been two years. [:D][:D][:D][:D] i wave two seperite loops of track. one is up further and has a reversing loop. there is a spur that travels 20 feet and connects the upper loop to the lower loop.

For the lower loop; i took a reversing way and connected two of the ends. the track is perfictly level, for running my imagionary live steam engine[8D][(-D] the track that connects the two loops never over lap; even though the land drops down 15 inches from where the upper loop ends and the lower loop starts. (this is only over 15 feet mind you)

what do i need? i'm going to need a lot of pulling power, to get up that hill.

[Anonymous]

I am looking for something/or someone to convert my "Napa" engine to battery power so I don't have to worry about wiring the track. Any easy solution or someone willing to help?

[Gary Crawley]

QUOTE: Originally posted by steph2472

I am looking for something/or someone to convert my "Napa" engine to battery power so I don't have to worry about wiring the track. Any easy solution or someone willing to help?

Steph
I use LocoLinc radio and batteries to control and power my layout, I have found this solution fantastic. (no track cleaning and total control)
At first I was worried about where to put the batteries as I use 2 packs of 6 "C cells" (the type they use in RC cars)
They would not fit in my loco's so I have put them in a box car and in the baggage end of a Bachmann combine.
Run a cable from your power car via a plug to your loco,s (I use a small microphone plug)
One thing you should do (for safety) is to place a in-line fuse between the batteries and the loco. (amps depends on loco draw) I use 3 amp.
The advantage of power cars is you can hook up different locos to be powered and have several packs charged and ready to go.(just open the door of the box car, unplug the packs and put them on the charger.)
I,m sorry I dont live in the US to help you but I'm sure there are people there that would be willing to lend a hand.
I hope this a least will give you some ideas and if you have any questions just ask, I will help if I can.[:)][:)]
Regards
Gary

[Gary Crawley]

Steph
Sorry "how rude"
[#welcome]
Regards
Gary

[Anonymous]

I am confused on the whole set up of RC in trains. What things would I need? I have a bachmann 4-6-0. What controlls the power or throttle. I can figure all else out but that missing link. batteries to ????? goes to train motor. I have accucraft RUBY and that seems easy to understand how r/c fits in. Thanks - Greg

[kovacjr]

Well I have just orderes this complete radtio set for my Bachman Climax but still have to figure out the batteries as there is no room for many..
I have nothing to do with this company but it seems like a great product and is the most affordable ive come across ever on the internet
http://www.rremote.com/
The kit is 90.00 and you just add batteries and many plug in modules available soon. Only drawback i see ir a 100 or foot range but I think it would work for most of us that want simple basic controls.

[Anonymous]

Kovacjr -
Ok looks great. So all I would need then is Batteries? I love the small size of the trans mitter. This might work for me since I only have one engine and one Live steamer. I hate dragging out the extension cord each time. Thanks for the info. - Greg

[kovacjr]

Need somewhere for batteries?
http://www.batteryspace.com/
Seems like a good deal I havent dove into the climax yet, sometime over the winter I will have more time

[ondrek]

i have been digging into RC control and i have decided that what i am going to do is battery power and manual control, i am going to by pass the expensive part of the whole deal by just putting a battery in the tender and a resistor pott on it somewhere and have that pott moderate the juice going to the engine. i will have to be right there if i want the engine to stop but hey, thats just fine, i will have complete control and it will be much cheaper too, or hey, here's a thougth, i could control the pott with the servo from an RC car....hey, there we go.....cheap cheap, i think i might stick withthe manual control though...

Kevin

[TonyWalsham]

Good luck Kevin.
Using a pot to control a battery powered LS loco is of course feasible.
However, the pot resistance must match the motor(s) and be capable of handling the current draw. Such devices are hard to get and not cheap.

Tony Walsham (RCS).

[Anonymous]

Hi everyone. I'm new to the board and would like to hear from anyone with LOCOLINC experience for use outdoors. In addition to the usual install stuff (tips, tricks, etc.), what effect, if any, do high temperatures have on this type of equipment - I live in the [US] desert southwest?

[pastorbob]

I am new to this forum, but have been in garden railroading since 1989. I am also in HO indoors. I am doing 1:29 scale since I prefer the diesels and modern freight cars. Layout is built, in place for over 10 years, but gets modification. I use code 250 rail and switches, aluminum, (an advantage with radio/battery).
I tried a couple of different brands available back then, finally settled on RCS.
Have 12 diesels all running with RCS and have had very good results with it. I have not used sound outdoors as I really don't want to call unwanted attention to my backyard.

Bob

[Anonymous]

jack i'm not sure if you will see this i'm in fort pierce fla. we have two large out door layouts i'm just starting to experment with radio control we use the aristo train engineers with track power i'm going to do some with battery power but i'm outa my hous rite now hurricane damage contac me if you want traincruse13@aol