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While I realize that this is akin to asking whether PC or Macs are the best computers, I would like some comments.
I am moving outside my Fn3 from the basement floor and am leaning towards Aristo Craft. I see comments that Aristo Craft European is a better visual choice. Is this correct? Is there a better choice of track? Should I spend the money on a rail bender and use Flex Track or use preexisting large radius curves?
Initially I will have about 16X40 ft, with possible expansions later.
Thanks in advance for the suggestions!
Bob:
As for advise on which brand of track to use, I would suggest reading back on this forum, as the pros and cons of all the brands and types (brass, stainless steel, aluminum) has been well argued here. Myself I like LGB brass flex, but it will be near impossible to get anymore, I’ll be switching to Piko brass. I like the way brass patinas out in the weather. Rail bender: YES! Flex rails: YES. I solder two 5-foot sections using a homemade jig to ensure straight rails. I use Split Jaw rail clamps to connect these 10-foot sections. Advantages to flex: longer continuous rails equals fewer joints therefore less opportunity for an uneven joint for the wheels to pick and derail, fewer joints mean better electrical continuity if you plan on track power.
My rail jig:
Tom Trigg
I'm using AMS's 1:20.3 brass code 250 flex track, and would highly recommend that. That, and a dual-rail railbender such as that from Train-Li, and you'll be off to a great start. I don't know if AMS's switches are on store shelves yet, but if not, they're getting close. Otherwise, you can use Sunset Valley's code 250 switches. I'm not a fan of sectional track. IMO, it's too limiting to what you can achieve in the garden. Using flex track allows you the ultimate freedom. You lay your garden hose out to figure out where you want your track to go, then bend it to match. It really is that simple.
And don't let anyone tell you that code 250 is too small to use in the garden.
Later,
K
Hi Bob I use LGB track both formed and flexi, its good track and if you have to move it in the future it should not course any probs mine as been down 5years plus and ive moved it around and it always goes back down and no probs with power
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
On my old layout I used LGB and Aristo Craft, on the new layout I used Aristo Craft 5 foot flex and USA switches. Not a one derailment on either layout.
Well, the first thing to understand is track power or not? You did not mention this.
That will narrow your choices considerably.
One other question that was asked can be answered though, using flex track, while more work will minimize the number of joints you have and will result in smoother, more flowing curves.
You can hand bend aluminum without a bender, you can do a pretty good job "belly bending" brass, and forget it without a bender on stainless.
Will post more once you indicate track power or not.
(I have some details on my site about deciding which to use, and pros and cons of materials, just go to the "TRACK" section on my site)
Regards, Greg
Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.
Click here for Greg's web site
Hi Greg
I use Aristo brass. I also run track power. I chose this track because it was cheeper then the stainless and I like the look of the brass once it weathers. I dont have a large layout so cleaning is no problem. I started with sectional track but with my expansion I went with 4.5 ft flex. This is the way to go. At first I did not go this route because you needed a rail bender. In my opinion the rail benders are too much money. I ended up making one from plans in the 2002 GR issue. It was very easy to make and easy to use
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