I would like to add a 25 foot long tunnel to my RR, Its more like a view block then a tunnel. It needs to be sectional so If the nasty happens I can retreve the trains. It only needs three portals, the max higth is 24 inchs and will also need to be lite so I can move it my self. I have a ton, well at least 100 lbs of foam packing that I would like to use. What do I need to do? I will post a few picture's of the area as soon as I find my camera.
The head is gray, hands don't work , back is weak, legs give out, eyes are gone, money go's and my wife still love's Me.
a view block? then maybe a row of "trees" bushes would be better.
I use spireas to block out sections and as a fence to keep visitors from walking through that area.
Is it REAL? or Just 1:29 scale?
Long live Outdoor Model Railroading.
I agree with Marty a tunnel that long is asking for trouble, you may build it light BUT moving it if a loco has derailed or stock jammed can be a big head ache IE items falling and damage can be costly. I use small bushes that spread outwards and are easy to maintain. Hope this helps
Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life
I forgot to say, that section of the RR will be on 2x6's above the current track at a 2.5% down grade. that is what I want to hide, the lower part that is. The main yard is rasied with the front covered with removalable pannels( work in progress ). Marty, Trees ECT will not work for me. I have rose's to deal with now, CFO said DON'T TOUCH HER ROSE'S.
Dave
Tunnel NO! TOO long. Too messy. Even with foam construction can cause problems. If your intent is to hide that portion of the run, build a "slot" and plant heavy vegetation. Plant a row of cinderblocks about eight inches from the rails, and stack up some soil to the top of the blocks on opposite side, add some plants in particular some "trees", add a mine or some other industry.
Tom Trigg
You know those pipes at home depot that are black and have ridges?
Use that one but make sure it is over 15" or a 15". Then cut holes into the top of the pipe for any screw ups you might have on the track. Now the hole is cut you need the green gas or water meter/valve box to put on every one of the holes you just made. Cut it to fit and water tight it on.
Train gets stuck in tunnel you can get to it. But yeah it can be done.
Toad
ToadFrog&WhiteLightn You know those pipes at home depot that are black and have ridges? Use that one but make sure it is over 15" or a 15". Then cut holes into the top of the pipe for any screw ups you might have on the track. Now the hole is cut you need the green gas or water meter/valve box to put on every one of the holes you just made. Cut it to fit and water tight it on. Train gets stuck in tunnel you can get to it. But yeah it can be done. Toad
OK now that you have spent my buget for year, on any of the recommendations above. What can I use that will hold up to lot's of rain, 110 deg heat in the summer and that I can apply over the styrofoam that I have. what's the best way of sticking the foam toghter. I have not had a derail in this section since I fixed my 10w switch.
Dave ( Mr. Cheap & Easy )
Sorry dude, only way I would do it but maybe concrete....sorry I said it could be done cause I see it can not.
I can't give you any suggestions how to camouflage the area you mention. All the comments made so far don't seem to be a solution for you. However, I would be rather cautious about constructing a long tunnel as you suggest. It seems to me that the tunnel would become a wonderful home to many of the undesirable wild life that you get in the United States. I'm sure, if you have an issue in the tunnel, then to remove a box car would be preferable to removing a snake or other critter with nasty teeth.
Alan, Oliver & North Fork Railroad
https://www.buckfast.org.uk/
If you don't know where you are going, any road will take you there. Lewis Carroll English author & recreational mathematician (1832 - 1898)
Great Western I can't give you any suggestions how to camouflage the area you mention. All the comments made so far don't seem to be a solution for you. However, I would be rather cautious about constructing a long tunnel as you suggest. It seems to me that the tunnel would become a wonderful home to many of the undesirable wild life that you get in the United States. I'm sure, if you have an issue in the tunnel, then to remove a box car would be preferable to removing a snake or other critter with nasty teeth.
Byron C.
Dave:
Never let it be said that I said something could not be done. I have a tendency of doing what others say cannot be done, even when it is not practical. You say you need a "view block", do you need the view blocked from both sides? Or just the one side? I’ve got a possible solution for both. Just how practical they are will be for you to determine.
ttriggWildlife Refuge Habitat Provider
I tried one (you get a cert. and can buy a sign sayn your a happy habitat provider) that needed money all the time and just about every 2 weeks they kept asking for money. Told them to take my name off the mailing list.
This is not to say I still don't do it but this time with out the money flowing to them and to the animals around me. I have everything from Bobcats to Deer, Hawks to Hummers. They all get feed.
I think Tom Trigg has probably made the best suggestions. At one point I was considering his open sided (read train shed type) tunnel for my layout; but was thinking of having a hinged fold down door between the posts. Decided it was overkill, and changed plans completely.
DW:
Tip #17 of 25 tips for beginning garden railroaders, Page 58 in the New GR issue.
If I had permission to reproduce it, I would send you a copy.
Paul
How about something like this; build a structure about 1' high and 1' wide with the top being made of a series of hinged hatches the entire length of your "tunnel". Build it using some kind of metal mesh which will serve as a trellis for a fast growing evergreen vine. The vine should remain flexible enough for you to open a hatch if needed to rescue a disabled train or the shoo away some unwanted visitor. Additional vine planted in the general area would serve as a ground cover.
Walt
Thank you all for your input's . I will make this happen after the winter rain's have stopped, sometime in march 09.
RENE PLEASE LOCK THIS POST
I like all those ideas but hadn't seen a "snow shed" as an alternative. Could look cool and have removable roofs to get inside. If you still want to use the foam then consider carving it to a hillside behind or below.
2c's
Neil
Can you spell boathook? Would work to get derails out. Also safe for prodding mr slithers or the cat! Wouldn't recommend it for annoying the black cat with the white stripe though!
One idea is to have the train enter the tunnel as usual for the first 3-4' and then have the closest exposed tunnel wall have one of the blocks left out or at least easy to identify for removale to expose the track like opening a window.
Didn't notice if you mentioned that you were running battery or track power. If track, Murphy will surely be waiting for you inside the tunnel. More than likely, that'll be the place where your track will lose it's continuity with the loco wheels.
I had a 17' long curved tunnel, which, BTW, was constructed using pink foam, and I invariably would have problems with track power in the tunnel. I've had to push and pull trains out of the tunnel that had gotten caught without power to them.
This might be a good time to consider battery conversion.
Mark
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