electrical connections

[Dick B]

I'm laying track now for my rr.  I was wondering if there is a product, such as a lubricant between the rails, to enhance electrical conduction.  Also being a novice, what gauge wire is used between the power source and the rail.  Do you solder it to the screws under usa track or where.  I'm also using the split jaw connections.  thank you for any help

 

dick b 

[altterrain]

You can use AristoCraft Electrolube or LGB conductive paste but its really not necessary with the split jaws. I use low voltage landscape wire. 16 gauge for the shorter runs (less than 30 feet) and 14 ga. for the longer runs. Some like to use 12 ga for everything but I think thats over kill unless your running a bunch of big locos with DCC. I crimp and solder a small ring terminal to the wire and put it on the split jaw screw with a dab of electrolube.

-Brian 

[Dick B]

thank you Brian for the info.

[g. gage]

Dick B. I use the same system as Brian, except for the last four or five years I've been slipping the crimp connector between the rail and tie strip with no failures. I use Aristo and USA track. I also drill and tap my old LGB track. If you need to cut a piece of USA or Aristo sectional track you can drill and tap the ends using a 2-56 tap. If you go with making your connections with split jaw connectors, I use Hillman, they can be cut in half with a cutting disc in a motor tool.

Good luck, have fun, Rob

[two tone]

Hi Dick I use the LGB grease and one input of power my layout is 400ft plus and I do not have any problems.

[Capt Bob Johnson]

now when you get to the inevitable splice in wire, or connecting wires in the outdoor environment i have something to add.

Using just electrical tape does not effectively eliminate moisture, and your connection will eventually rot out.   I did not have good success using the silicone filled wire nuts supposedly designed for low voltage lighting, the wire rotted out in a year.   I have come to using a bell splice, and even tying a third line in with a modified bell splice, taping it, and then a couple of coats of the paint on electrical tape.   This method, even though tedious, has proven to work both on my RR and for the lighting of my pond.   Splices thus protected have shown no tarnish of the wire when disassembled 3 years down the road.

That method sure beats trying to solder connections when you're outside and down in the dirt!

[skeenapac]

Hey Dick B,

 I'm a little late to this party, but wanted to throw a thought your way. After using most of the methods listed here, I settled on solder and rail clamps. I should note that I do not use over-the-joiner clamps. I take the joiners right off and use the direct-to-rail clamps. The rest of the explanation is a little lengthy so, if you are interested, I reprinted an article I wrote for a garden railway club onto my website at:

http://www.skeenapacific.ca/railway/Track%20Construction%20Soldering%20Tip.htm

As for connecting power, that's where I do use over-the-joiner clamps, using one half onto the rail and the other half squeezing a tinned (solder-covered) wire. I have used lamp chord, 16ga, for most power supplies but I (mostly) run it inside protective plastic conduit. 

Hope you find it interesting.

 Cheers!

[Dick Friedman]

I've used Hillman clamps since the beginning of my rr (about 2001) and they are very easy to use.  I crimp a terminal on my outdoor low voltage wire and put it under the Hillman screws.  Since I've got brass clamps and aluminum rail, I put a small piece of aluminum foil (greased on the inside) around the rail, then clamp the rails together.  Electricity seems to stay in the aluminum.  I've got about 150 feet of mainline, fed in two places.  The weakest link was the joints beween raqil sections, but the aluminum foil seems to have cured that.

I've also use "suitcase" connectors for splicing new wieres into old. 

I've use "no ox" or "oxygard" to keep air away from the splices, and LGB conductive grease as well.  It works pretty well until the rainy seson washes the grease out of the joints, and mud in!

 

 

[spikejones52002]

AS for the electricial properities of electrical grease.  Stick an OHM meter into a portion. You will get a "INF" reading.

I used "neversez" on the screw threads. Use a crimp connector with a small ring and attach it to one of the screws on the Split-Jaw.