Trains.com

G scale layout question

2695 views
7 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
G scale layout question
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 6, 2004 6:35 PM
How much should I be expecting to spend on a 13'x24' layout if I wanted to get a simple yet functional setup?
  • Member since
    January 2014
  • 1,264 posts
Posted by bman36 on Saturday, March 6, 2004 7:03 PM
elias,
Hi again. That's a tough question. All depends on how much you are able to build yourself. If you don't have any issues of GR, pick one up. Flip through it so you can get an idea of track prices etc. Start with a simple track plan with a single loop and room to add sidings later. Ask lots of questions here. We'll try to help any way we can. Later eh...Brian.
  • Member since
    May 2002
  • From: South Australia
  • 380 posts
Posted by toenailridgesl on Sunday, March 7, 2004 7:47 PM
Elias,
you can cut your initial costs to nearly nothing if you choose to handlay your track rather than spend big $$$ on the commercial stuff. GR mag has had a number of articles about handlaying over the years, and you can get a blow-by-blow description on hand-laying and track bed preparation on my URL (link below, click on the Construction Page)
Phil Creer, The Toenail Ridge Shortline,  Adelaide Sth Oz http://www.trainweb.org/toenailridge toparo ergo sum
  • Member since
    April 2002
  • From: Wisconsin
  • 1,839 posts
Posted by Rene Schweitzer on Wednesday, March 10, 2004 10:31 AM
You can also go to a train show. Lots of garden railroad clubs, at least around here, have modular layouts set up and are happy to answer questions. Where do you live? Maybe there's a public display or club you can visit just to get an idea.

Rene Schweitzer

Classic Toy Trains/Garden Railways/Model Railroader

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: S.Easton , Mass.
  • 593 posts
Posted by smcgill on Wednesday, March 10, 2004 11:26 AM
Sectional track is easy , compared to hand laying or flex track! It is a big erector set! Most of the time you can get the track to go where you want it to ! When you use USA or Aristo track the connectors (srews) go together rather well.You can make a good size layout with moderate size power pack(starter set one)



If you look down to the right you will see the power pack! This was weaved into the garden with USA sectional track!



In this pic you can see how the track looks! You can add track later on when you get the urge!



I added the next part because the larger engines needed 8' or more to run with cars. You can use 2 scales if you like , the 1:29 or 1:20 on the same track!







P.S. You are going to learn a lot about dirt/mud/stone/rock/trees/bushes/grasses etc. You will also want to try to do more carpentry (tressle).You will get a chance to get the wife out and get dirty playing with dirt and plants. Is she good @ tacking pics of you working. Take plenty (like a kid growing up) so you can see all the fun work you have done!

Mischief

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 11, 2004 8:18 PM
Hi!I have decided that I would like to build a garden railroad. I started on the railroad as a young man of sixteen and thought that I would be a fireman and then an engineer but after a few months of lighting up engines and serviceing them at the local station they had me do a color blind test and i was color blind so that ended my career as a railroader so i went and joined the Navy as a stoker and after the war i got a job as a stationary engineer so i worked with steam until I retired.
I would like some advice on how to get started in this railroading without putting out a lot of money. I am quite a handyman so I can do just about anything except build the rolling stock, I amagine lots of you can advise me on what not to do and what to do, I would apprecieate any advice from anyone.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 12, 2004 12:58 AM
Hi
it can be as cheep or costly as you choose but I would sugest checking brands and price before starting.
I dont think you will fit anything larger than an R2 curve in that space which will mean short trains of short stock.
But go for a min R3 on points (switches) avoid R1 points like the plague
regards john
  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Smoggy L.A.
  • 10,743 posts
Posted by vsmith on Friday, March 12, 2004 11:41 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by swimmer76

Hi!I have decided that I would like to build a garden railroad. I started on the railroad as a young man of sixteen and thought that I would be a fireman and then an engineer but after a few months of lighting up engines and serviceing them at the local station they had me do a color blind test and i was color blind so that ended my career as a railroader so i went and joined the Navy as a stoker and after the war i got a job as a stationary engineer so i worked with steam until I retired.
I would like some advice on how to get started in this railroading without putting out a lot of money. I am quite a handyman so I can do just about anything except build the rolling stock, I amagine lots of you can advise me on what not to do and what to do, I would apprecieate any advice from anyone.


Swimmer 76 welcome to the forum,

This is a very common question, there have been several replies in the past trheads that address this question, I suggest scrolling thru the past posts on the forum as several people have already given some great advise to getting started.

What to do?

Read up on the subject, educate yourself on the products available out there, and be prepared for sticker shock!

I always say get a simple loop (big or small is up to you) down and running, then plan expansion if you so chose. Its better to have something you can enjoy down and running that to be in the perpetual "I am still building my layout" phase thats all too common in HO.

This stuff can be expensive, be preparred for it. But once you've purchased something its pretty much a one time cost. plus the number of really needed things like switches, buildings, cars, and engines are far less than in other scales. its possible to build a great looking layout with one loop, one siding, one station, one engine and a few cars.

Fisrt choose WHERE you are going to put the layout, measure it, try to include bumps ridges, depressions etc. Try to anticipate water drainage, you dount want your traock to act as a dam blocking the main water drainage through your yard.

Is the layout going to be grade level or raised in a planter? Most older Garden RR's find that a raised planter makes there lives MUCH easier as they arent stooping over to work on there trains. This is almost an absolute for live steamers.

I would then start doodling a layout onto graph paper where each grid is equal to 6 inches or a foot. I read about what sizes were availible in sectional track and then used those pieces as a kit of parts to plan my layout. Once I had my layout planned I started to by the track. I didnt buy it all at once, i spread out the costs over several months until I had all the track I needed, Then I layed it dowm in the area I was planning to build and made sure everything fit.

As for trains, there are two camps in Garden Railroading, STANDARD GAUGE doing that mainline thing SF,UP, NS, C&NW CSX, etc, and NARROW GAUGE following the smaller railroads of the USA, D&RG, EBT, SR&RL, etc.

CHOOSE ONE, it wil make everything easier to choose when you buy trains.

As for engines I got my first large scale engine off of ebay, I planned to use it as a display item but then I didnt know it would cause a reoccurance of that infectious disease known as Model Ralraoding. I did the same for my engines and cars slowly getting them over time. If you can afford it I would get a good starter set, like an LGB or USA or AristoCraft depending on what type of railroading you want to do, That way you get a power pack, engine and a couple of cars and some track.

I would agree with using the widest curves possible, most starter set use 4foot diameter (LGB R1) in a world where everyone recommends no smaller than 6 foot diameter curves (LGB R2), same for switches, I recommend LGB even though they are expensive they have the least problems with stalling and derailemnts.

   Have fun with your trains

Search the Community

FREE EMAIL NEWSLETTER

Get the Garden Railways newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month

By signing up you may also receive occasional reader surveys and special offers from Garden Railways magazine. Please view our privacy policy