Bases for buildings to set on outside

[chuckshobby]

 I made some of concrete, making became a hassle. What are some other alternatives?

           Thanks,

                         Chuckshobby

[altterrain]

Painted sections of hardibacker tile board (what I use), porcelain floor tiles and pre cast concrete pavers (eg - the 12 or 18" square ones) are popular choices.

 -Brian

[ttrigg]

Most of the time I use old fashion red bricks, or stepping stones.  Some are painted, some are not.  I position the brick/stone so that the top is slightly above ground level.  I position the structure so that it covers the exposed brick then fill in with crusher fines.  If the structure does not completely cover the brick/stone as in the merry-go-round and the gazebo, I paint the stone to match the surrounding ground cover.

[imrnjr]

James Hardy (and others) also makes a 4'x8' sheathing material (approximately 1/4" thick), that we cut to size for a foundation.  The foundation lets us move or bring in buildings for repair or storage in exceptionally bad weather. 

It's generally available at the the big box home improvement stores and most building supply stores that carry Hardy type products.  It has a pattern on one side that to me looks like a smooth/floated stucco finish which gives a little texture for paint and scene making.   As for cutting it, a diamond blade in a 4 1/2" angle grinder works best for me.  Wear a dust mask when cutting, 'cause this stuff (Hardiboard, cement backer board, etc.) makes a lot of dust no matter the manufacturer.

If the location is sloping ground, to level the structure I'll add some cribbing of ripped PTL or a retaining wall of Hardiboard 1"x4" or 1"x6" attached with screws and/or construction adhesive .  Pre drill the screw holes with a countersink and be careful as near final depth. They will strip out if run to fast or with too much torque on the driver clutch.  And don't expect the countersink to last too long.  The material is very abrasive and will dull the bit and sink after about 30-50 holes.  It'll still be useable, but only for the cement board stuff since it'll be too dull to really cut wood well.

Generally, if there is no retaining wall, I make the base about 3/4" wider than the widest point on the building .  Where there is a retaining wall or a permanent yard scene, it's expanded to fit the scene or need.   If the screws show up too badly I'll generally fill them with paintable silicone or acrylic putty.   

It is somewhat more brittle than concrete based backboards since it is thinner and lighter and will chip when dropped on a corner or crack/break when unsupported and stepped or leaned  on, but with a building on them that's not generally a problem.  (The voice or experience!!)

Since we use silicone as our adhesive of choice to attach the buildings,it also provides a surface that will take a seal for weather proofing if your putting sound or lighting in your structures.  

I find the stuff to be economic, durable, and easy to work with.

Good luck whatever product or method you choose!

Mark

[Capt Bob Johnson]

I think all that needs to be said has been propounded!

[whiterab]

I dig down a few inches and lay down a layer of smooth gravel.  Gives a nice french drain effect so it dries out fast affter a rain. 

[chuckshobby]

Thanks for all the ideas, checking them out.

                               Thanks again

                                       Chuckshobby