Solder or Clamps? I do both. I use LGB "flex" rails, I was lucky and got a big batch before they shut down and the price of rails went through the roof. I solder the 5-ft sections into 10-foot sections. I use Split Jaw Clamps to join the 10-ft. sections and to bring in power. The Split Jaw "non-conducting" clamps work really well for isolating sections of track, yards and sidings etc. The isolator clamps allow me to run a switched power line to that rail section, using a small eyelet wiring connector soldered to the wire. I know several other people who have soldered longer multiple sections of track but the two times I have tried it I ended up destroying the plastic ties. When soldering rails it is very important to ensure that the rails are properly aligned. In my case I have a 4 ft 2x4 that I have rung across the table saw to cut a grove that is just wide enough to fit the rail, and a 3 inch notch cut out so I have full access to the rail joiner with the solder gun. I leave it in this jig for about 30 seconds so that it firms up in correct alignment.
Tom Trigg
I use aluminum rail that carries current, so it's clamps for me. Hillman's work great, and I've laid in a small supply. I've got a ton of 332 splitjaws I can't use. I also had some short pieces of aluminum rail welded together so I have no joints in the tunnel. Very good rule, IMHO.
Son-in-law using short pieces of LGB and Aristocraft track. He solders joiners to several short pieces to make a long piece, then uses the slip joiners to hold them together. He may solder jumpers around the joiners later.
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