Anyone used Aristo-Craft / Crest "Train Engineer" ? or a Walk-around trottle?

[vsmith]

Has anyone been using Aristo / Crest Train Engineer products?

I need to get a walkaround trottle and I am interested in their Basic Train Engineer CRE-55480 model. Its a basic system with a radio controller and a power control pack that claims be able to hook up to a standard power pack between the pack and the track and be ready to operate. I have a standard LGB 1amp power pack with the knob that goes both ways to control direction that supplies my layout.

My Questions are,

Can the Train Engineer be utilized with the LGB pack, how would it work?

Would I have to turn the knob on the pack all the way to one side?

Will that damage the pack having it on "high" all the time?

Should I buy a different power pack, if so which?

Any other products to consider?

Any and all opinions are welcome, Thanks, Vic.[8D]

[Marty Cozad]

Vic
AH,,,now we know your name.
I will have the model #5470 TE, but I think any DC power pack will work. I know the HO club uses the TE reciever/transmiter 10 amp one. The amps may be the factor of what your linited on. Maybe some one else can know for sure.

[bman36]

Vic,
I am considering one of these myself. Gonna' see what I can find out on Aristo's web site. Marty...are you happy with the performance of yours? Vic... the layout I look after in a grocery store here uses an MRC pack that is on 24/7. No problems what so ever. It is set at about 2/3 throttle and the train is run by a push button timer. I wondered how long it will last being on all the time and it has been almost 2 years now for it! I also own a couple of RC systems that I no longer use. One has a ground frequency so I thought about actually rigging up a transformer to be servo controlled. Crazy I know but I love to make weird things. Besides I have the system so why not? Now to that web site. Later eh...Brian.
[:D] [:-^]

[vsmith]

Hey Brian, Hey Marty

I printed out what I could get from Aristo and its more description than technical. For example I presume directional control is through the Train Engineer Control Reciever, and it doesnt matter which way the LGB pack control knob is turned.

But one question i had was how is the power graduated for speed control. I dont want a jerky start and jerky incremental speed increases and decreases. Does the Train Engineer have a smooth action so to speak. I was hoping to hear from someone whos had one and could say yea or nea about it.

I realized I'm getting pretty spread out and wont be able to run my layout, switch, control blocks and uncouple from a fixed throttle position. So i want to get a system that allows me to follow the train. This basic Train Engineeer seems perfect but i want to hear from someone who has actually used it in combat, so to speak. My other option is trying to find a teathered throttle. LGB has one but its ment to used with their "jumbo" power pack, at 10 amps and $200 its way way too much my little Dog & Pony Show.

Vic

[bman36]

Vic,
I too want to know how well it performs. One of the local hobby shops here ordered a whole wack for the guys to use with HO. Not sure how they liked them. This may have been an HO version if they made such a thing. Considering I already have an Aristo transformer with "Pulse Width Control" the movement should not be jerky. Even when you kill the throttle the train still coasts to a stop. I guess we'll watch and wait. Later eh...Brian.

[toenailridgesl]

I made my own tethered throttle, using a *** Smith 24v.10amp kit (*** Smith is the Oz version of Radio Shack, I think you can order their stuff off the net), hooked up to 25ft of 5-core trailer cable. This is powered by a 24volt 10amp transformer made from a truck battery charger. Gives me 50ft of control area and since the Ridge is only 30ft wide I can get to just about anywhere I want. The throttle cost under $20, the cable under $10. It's been operational for over 5 years without a hickup. Only nuisance is the 25ft of cable at your feet when you're standing at the main centre point.

[smcgill]

I use the "Train Engineer" out side on my G-scale , and I use the power pack that is the mate. I was slowly burning up my starter set pack and I liked the Idea that you could walk around with the train! For now I run track powered USA engines (some are shut off when on a siding).Everything works Great ! I have also used it inside on a small HO cristmass display ! I run two USA engines when pushing the plow and I have no problems! I also have a 1:20cale Shay that runs Great with the system!

[Marty Cozad]

Vic
On smooth control, it depends on the engine and amount of cars. The slow down always seems to respond to slow, but you get used to it. i like to see movement when i hit the button, I'm not a scale speed operator. Not that i fly ,but when I'm ready to move the train I want it to move.
The cost and durablity is mainly what drew me to them.

[vsmith]

I had a chance this weekend to talk to a seller and they said that the speed control was digitally controlled so the speed transition for stop to moving was pretty smooth but unfortunatly he didnt have the basin train engineer in stock, i have a couple of other sources I'm going to check , i will probably pick this up in the next month and install it so I'll let everone know how it goes once installed, Thanks Vic

[bman36]

Vic,
Sounds good, we'll be waitin'. Still doin' some research here. Later eh...Brian.

[:D] [tup]

[Anonymous]

I use and really enjoy the Train Engineer. At first I did use it with an LGB throttle with the knob turned all the over to the right. But soon needed more power so I opted for Aristo's own power supply. I only have the occasional headache in that with the train engineer remote, I am running it with two seperate loops of tracks and after running trains for awhile I may forget which channel I am running for each track...[^]

[lechee]

I've used one for two years now and think its great. It does have an emergancy stop button that will bring your train to an immediate stop no matter which direction your going. It has a programmable start time which you can set to bring your trains up to speed just like the real thing, no jerking, in either direction. When you change directions the train will come to a slow stop pause then come back up to speed in the opposite direction at your last speed setting, works great. You do have to pay close attention to its opperation and remember what you did last. If you don,t you can start at full speed in either direction and loose control or your trains. You will think it's the train engineer having problems, it's the train engineer all right ( you ). By not paying attention I backed all 11 of my USA maintanence cars, a 48 inch drop, on to a concrete floor, They are not like LGB cars, they broke up in little peices. So I have rugs now. When in doubt this is what I do to start a train. On the train engineer hit the emergancy stop, select the track you are going to use, press the direction and bring the train up to the desired speed. Then check the layout to see if you have any other movement. With the train engineer you can walk around your layout , throw your manual switches , start , stop or reverse your train and feel like you are really railroading. This is what they do in real life.

[Anonymous]

I have a few questions of my own, as I am looking into a system such as that for myself. I have had way too many issues with track power and constant cleaning to stick with it. Which trains engineer would I need to use with batteries, and is it easy to use accessories with it, such as smoke, lights, sound (whissls and bells), switches?

[vsmith]

Just an update, went to the Model Train Expo in Pomona. Ca. this weekend picked up a Basic Train Engineer!

I will be hooking it up sometime this week and will let everyone know how it works out.

[vsmith]

OK I got the system installed and I am impressed![tup]

All I had to do was to unplug the outgoing power wires from the power pack and plug in the wires from the reciever, then connect the outgoing power wires to the reciever, put a 9v battery into the radio controller, and I was up and running! [:D]

Theres one thing i really dont like and thats that the reciever has no way of being mounted or attached to a control board. I have it jury rigged in place right now and will have to fabricate a bracket to hold it in place. [xx(]

Other than that it works pretty good. You select direction, which can be tricky on a layout remembering which way the train is pointing in relationship to the controller direction, then press the Fast button, the power ramps up slowly then the train will start moving, to slow you press the Slow button. and the train will slow, albietly the Slow command has a few seconds of lag time to respond.

I'm finding it best to approach a station using Slow to reduce speed then when i get where i want it to be press Stop. If I use the slow command exclusively i tend to overshoot the station. I'm sure some practice and a few well placed reference signs (yard limit, station,slow) will help me to get it down right so I dont need the stop button. I've aready hit the end of track guard posts a couple of times.[:o)]

I now have to decide on a direction reference for the layout (northbound,southbound) so that it correspondes to the controller. and rig the reciever antenna somewhere, its really long, so either it goes under the benchwork or its going to become the telephone wires of my layout. [8)]

Overall I'm very impressed with this unit. I dont now how it could best be installed for an outside layout though. It seams that if your outdoor control system is set up indoors or under a permanant weather protection device it should be OK, this is NOT a weathertight unit, it will short if it gets wet. I believe it was developed primarily for HO indoor layouts. [:(]

Also I was told that the Basic Train Engineer is only rated for use with 2 amps maximum power source . Any power source higher and you'll have to go to the next model up. But for my little Dog and Pony Show and its 1 Amp LGB power pack it works perfectly so far, now i have to clean my filthy track next before I can paint it.[(-D]

[bman36]

Hey Vic,
Glad to hear you like the unit. Based on what you have said I plan to order one myself as soon as the "Tax Refund" comes. Will definately use it indoors on my logging line and will see what I can rig up for outdoors. Sounds like you need some practice with it to take full advantage of how it works. Don't want my Shay plowing its way off any sidings. With the gearing it takes a bit to stop it. On the other hand it would make for a neat video. Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

I USE THE ARISTO- CRAFT/CREST
I LIKE THE TRAIN ENGINEER, BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE TO TAKE A TRANFORMER OUT SIDE TO RUN MY TRAINS, BEN PA.




'

[Anonymous]

I'm collecting equipment for a 14' 6" x 18' 6" indoor G railroad. I have every thing I
need except tethered throttles. I have a power supply made from 2 computer power
supplies. I can get filtered DC & variable voltage from 11.5 to 22 volts. My problem is
that I need 3 bare bones throttle units (speed control & DPDT center off toggle switch)
that will handle 3 to 6 amps.
I can't afford power supplies with whistles, bells, momentum etc on my retirees budget. I drool over these commercial units, sound and DCC but I puke at the costs.

Does any one have a list of parts & wiring and /or circuit broard diagrams for bare bones tethered throttles you will share; or can you direct me to a manufacturer of
such units?

I have 54 years of railroad modeling under my belt. I've built and designed many things from double coil switch machines to turnouts and buildings. I don't have a lot of
knowledge about electronics, just enough to get by. Fishwagon.

[vsmith]

Hi Fishwagon, Welcome to the forum!

I'm also doing that indoor G scale thing, Sorry, I cant help you with the wiring question but maybe someone else here can, I would also pose the question over on the Model Railroader forum, there are a lot of people there that are more experienced with what your asking.

My little Dog & Pony Show of a layout is small by G standards, only 8'6" x 20'. I told a friend who did N gauge, how big my layout was, he nearly had a spazm when i said it was "really small".

For me I intentiionally kept the wiring and control systems as simple as possible cause I hate wiring. Simple DC all the way, along with the Basic Train Engineer, I have a simple LGB 1 amp powerpack and a bank of Atlas controllers for the various blocks of track, no powered switches, no reverse loops, no DCC. I want to run my trains, not trouble shoot wiring for six months.

I tell people my layout is State of the Art....for 1960.

[lechee]

Would you explain your atlas controllers?
Sounds like something I might want to use.

[vsmith]

the controllers are used to power or isolate the various blocks and sidings. there are switches that provide an on/off mechanism , there are three switches to a controller and they can be ganged one to the other. I use the simplest controller, but atlas has a double acting controller for reverse loops, and controllers for switch machines too. I find the Atlas stuff to be the most cost effective for me.

Check out www.atlastrains.com or www.walthers.com and see if they show them.

[Anonymous]

I have the new and old Train Engineer control.Track length may make a difference on how fast your train will run. I have over 200 ft. of track and use the 10 amp power supply. I run up to 5 trains at a time. PUT A FUSE BLOCK BETWEEN THE T. E. TO PROTECT THE T. E. IF YOU HAVE A DERAILMENT. tHIS WILL ALSO PROTECT YOUR ENGINE. Not doing this can FRY your engine and your T.E. You can buy the fuse at any auto supply. Get one that has a blade type fuse. I use a 5 amp fuse for protection. The fuse on the engineer only protects the train T. E. from crossing the wires between throttle and the T.E. I hope this helps, any questions,I'm here to help. J&DRR.[^]

[Anonymous]

I have an LGB MTS with remote handset and I can control everything; speed, direction, standing and other sounds, smoke and points (switches) and it is great. However there are problems in paradise; in that you don't know if your comannd has been recieved and sometimes it isn't, there's alwyas a good reason but you don't know. I have never had so many spectacular crashes and I am no Aussie version of Gomez Adams. But on 65 m (200') of track, I regularly run three very different trains and switch them from track to track without leaving my spot in the shade or even somteimes I operate them from the swimming pool. I also run them from our bedroom late at night just to watch the lights go round.

This is a very expensive system and to overcome my feedback problems will cost more than I am prepared to spend. It can be done with isolated rail sections, signals and train proximity devices, which are all available at a price; as is the hardware and software to hook my trains up to my computer but I prefer to spend my money on track and its associated gear.

So to conclude this concept is really worthwhile but it does have its drawbacks and I cannot comment on the equipment as I only use LGB to date and I think that is all I can use now I have gone to reticulaing power to the trains via AC.


Rgs Ian; Kawana Island Tropical Railway.

PS I'm just back from holidays in Baliand put on 9 pounds, as the food and booze was so good and so cheap.

[vsmith]

Hey Ian, vacations kinda do that to you, probably the reason we've never taken a cruise yet. Went to Cancun last year ate and drank alot, but we SWEATED it all of between the humidity and the heat! Climbing pyramids in Chichan ita is definitly not as much fun when you are drenched with humidity![8D]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by toenailridgesl

I made my own tethered throttle, using a *** Smith 24v.10amp kit (*** Smith is the Oz version of Radio Shack, I think you can order their stuff off the net), hooked up to 25ft of 5-core trailer cable. This is powered by a 24volt 10amp transformer made from a truck battery charger. Gives me 50ft of control area and since the Ridge is only 30ft wide I can get to just about anywhere I want. The throttle cost under $20, the cable under $10. It's been operational for over 5 years without a hickup. Only nuisance is the 25ft of cable at your feet when you're standing at the main centre point.

I am interested in this project you put together. could you please send me somemore details. Like product number of *** Smiths kit. And any other detail that would be needed to do this.
you can email me at the following address:

[e-mail]

Thank you for your time.
Jon

[vsmith]

OMG 18 months resurrected from the grave!

I've been through 2 batteries already on my TE!

[piercedan]

I have a basic TE and I would not hook it to a power pack that can reverse the polarity.

I choose to use a laptop computer power supply as these are rated at 18 volts and over 2 amps which is perfect for the basic TE.

I have been using this unit for 4 years with no problems.

Also, it is small enough to install for battery operation.