my 7/8 scale scratch locomotive (based on a Japanese 18" prototype)

[FJ and G]

Here’s my 7/8” scale critter on O gauge track just finished building using a Williams floor and motor (floor was chopped several inches) and a Lionel truck for the front). The lights are on front and back using a separate circuit but since daylight, hard to see. Entire body and trucks are made with thick gauge steel. It was a bear to work with but adds a lot of weight and character

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

components inside critter and first testing prior to doing body work and detailing:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pcu4zC4Xo3k

 

[altterrain]

Boy, I didn't think it could be done. You have actually out uglied any of Vic's lokies . Nice job!

-Brian 

[dwbeckett]

Nice Bell

[FJ and G]

brian,

 

thanks; it's supposed to be pretty battered so I guess I've succeeded

 

beckett,

 

OK the bell's too good????? It's already missing the lanyard. I probably need to put a dent or crack in it and weather it a bit

[Takasaki Matt]

Very nice.  Looks like it has seen better days.

 Any chance of a photo of the prototype it is based on?  Always on the look out for something that would fit my railway.

 

 

[van buren s l]

 Nice work Dave! Your critter just oozes character.

Bob

[FJ and G]

here's the prototype (From Narrow Gauge and Industrial Rwy Magazine). The only change made was to add bell and horn, as the prototype works on a captive line; the idea being that the loco could have (actually might be) used in a more diverse operating scenario where warning devices are needed. An R/C motorboat control powers it.

Also, 2 more photos

[FJ and G]

Takasaki,

 

The Japanese loco was designed by the lumber yard owner and built by an auto repair shop!  It runs on the Matsumoto Kenautau Line, which has a route 'mileage' of 400 metres.

 

I couldn't find info online. If you can; esp. photos; would be terrific. i take that back. i worked from the poor photos you see and if I saw better closeups, I'd see mine is lacking in details and I'd get depressed.

 

cheers

 

dave 

[Takasaki Matt]

Not one I've heard of before.  Sorry, bit pushed at the mo.   No time to surf for info.  Exam season bites yet again and I still have one paper to make and a listening test to record with my dulcet tones - roll on spring hols.

 Great critter, you should be very proud!

 

[ttrigg]

Boy, I didn't think it could be done. You have actually out uglied any of Vic's lokies . Nice job!

-Brian 

I second that motion.  OK enough insults from one who has yet to attempt such a monster.  Well done my friend.

[vsmith]

Boy, I didn't think it could be done. You have actually out uglied any of Vic's lokies . Nice job!

-Brian 

I second that motion.  OK enough insults from one who has yet to attempt such a monster.  Well done my friend.

You guys are both nuts, his engine still has a decent paint job, its almost brand new! Right off the showroom floor, just compare that to my super cheepo critter where the rust and grime is the only thing holding it together....

 

Seriously, thats a hellova cool model

[FJ and G]

Here's UGLY in action: Warning, you must tilt your screen 90 degrees clockwise to view!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESchG5-Y4Zk


my stone viaduct


 

[hoofe116]

Very attractive engine.

I've been contemplating working with sheet galvanized steel for two reasons: I'm familiar with the medium, have the tools (brake & sliproll) and a large roll of the stuff--perhaps two square yards. I'm wondering if the galvanized would take paint. Is this material used much in G gauge RR?

I took careful note of your rivet job--a question I posed a few weeks ago. I suppose a rounded-over punch and a piece of softwood underneath would do it?

Thanks,

Les W.

[hoofe116]

here's the prototype (From Narrow Gauge and Industrial Rwy Magazine).  An R/C motorboat control powers it.

Um, does the motorboat control 'power' it, or 'control' it? I'm looking for an inexpensive engine controller. Is the Boat setup expensive? Do you have direction control? ie, fwd/rev? (I doubt left/right is of much value on a RR loco)

Thanks,

Les W

[FJ and G]

Les,

 

Yes, takes paint (used spray paint; laquer best).

 

Yes, used a heavy-duty punch with wood behind it

 

Yes, my motor boat controller is the most robust and least expensive system out there. Yes, it puts the train in forward and reverse.

 

It can operate your train from a football field away, even with the antenna left coiled

 

The disadvantage is it doesn't do sound and special effects. BUT, I just want my train to run forward and reverse and to do it well

 

Why spend so much money on a fancy R/C system is beyond me. I've had nothing but fun and success with mine for 3 years now on a variety of O gauge and G gauge locomotives. This particular locomotive is for O gauge and despite its small size, all components fit neatly inside:

Here's your needs:

1. A 6- 7.2V battery (NiMh is good) with charger. That will run you about $30 or less.

2. ProBoat Waterproof ESC (Electronic Speed Control with Reverse
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB2314
$40

3. Ranger II HiTec Radio transmitter/receiver for ground vehicles (order any channel)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXARP0**&P=0
$40

 

Takes about 15 minutes to install.

 

Here's what it looks likee inside the loco

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pcu4zC4Xo3k

 

Try to get a smaller battery than I used (they actually are several batteries encased in some sort of plastic wrap. R/C hobby shops have what you need, or go to the sources I listed for the transmitter and ESC (electronic speed controller). Radio shack has them but they tend to be pricier and bigger than you need. 

[hoofe116]

FJ

Great! Thanks for the comprehensive reply& addresses.

Les W.

[Ray Dunakin]

Nice work, David! I love small, funky locos like that.