turn outs -powered or not

[Anonymous]

I'm new to all of this, Do most in this forum use powerd or manual turn outs. I myself would rather use powered. I've also have seen adds for neumatic(AIR) powered. From what I gather from this forum LGB have the better turn outs. Any Awnswers would be helpful.

Carpenter Matt

[bman36]

Hi Matt,
I myself prefer LGB switches. I find the machine work better as are the switch motors also. To power or not? First off, will all your switches be accessible? Any that are not should be. Maintenance is necessary from time to time such as keeping any debris from jamming it up. Part of the fun of model rr'ing is throwing the switches. Then again if you want to sit in a chair and watch it run, power is nice also. To each his own really. For the sake of simplicity going manual is good. I myself prefer power in this instance. Just some things for you to consider! Have fun! Later eh...Brian.

[BudSteinhoff]

Matt,
Brian said it all, I agree with him in that the LGB switches give a lot less trouble than others and the points are machined with more gradual taper which makes them smoother.
I have over 30 switches and switch motors outside for several years and have no problem as long as you give them some care periodically.
I run all brand loco's and cars though them and control them with the Aristo switch remotes.
Min. 8ft dia helps.
Bud

[Marty Cozad]

Carp Matt
Sounds good, kinda like Doc Matt.
i'm lazy and use Ten Mile ground throws from CO&CRY. I walk around with my trains to uncouple them anyway plus I hate wiring. The only time we do lots of switching is at open house and trains are moving all the time.
Carp Marty
Its up to your desire and needs.

[vsmith]

It really depends on how much work your willing to do. I kinda have to agree with Marty, wiring switches outdoors, can be very complicated and with LGB can be expensive. I had manual switches outdoors, this was after trying to figure out LGBs wiring schematic and the fact that you have to use thier control boxes, the total costs was way more than I was able to pay and the wiring underground was a little more than I was willing to do also. Also remember that unless you install automatic uncouplers, you will have to follow the train around to uncouple it, so reaching down and throwing a switch inst that much extra effort.

LGB switches are hands down the best, but be warned the larger radius switches are sold powered only, no manual throw. This is to force you to buy thier expensive control system, if you can afford it and have a electrical contractors license or can tackle the wiring, then go for it. Otherwise you will have to find replacement throws for those switches.

[bman36]

Carpenter Matt,
If cost is an issue and you want the large diameter switches, consider selling the switch motors. They would be relatively easy to sell and would help off set the cost. vsmith is right in that wiring is a bit of a pain. Getting the wiring underground requires careful planning. You don't want to bury it just any old way. Otherwise you may decide on a plant or two later you wi***o add and stick a shovel through the wiring. As I said in my earlier post, if you want more interaction then go manual. Keep askin' the questions and we'll keep tryin' to answer them. Later eh...Brian.
[bday]Oh yeah, I turned 38 today guys...think I'll take a nap. [zzz]

[vsmith]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bman36

Carpenter Matt,
If cost is an issue and you want the large diameter switches, consider selling the switch motors. They would be relatively easy to sell and would help off set the cost. vsmith is right in that wiring is a bit of a pain. Getting the wiring underground requires careful planning. You don't want to bury it just any old way. Otherwise you may decide on a plant or two later you wi***o add and stick a shovel through the wiring. As I said in my earlier post, if you want more interaction then go manual. Keep askin' the questions and we'll keep tryin' to answer them. Later eh...Brian.
[bday]Oh yeah, I turned 38 today guys...think I'll take a nap. [zzz]

Hey Brian Happy Birthday [bday][bday][bday]

Only two more years and you'll be as old as me...[:D]

to celebrate do you run in the snow wearing your "Birthday Suit" ? [(-D][(-D][(-D]

[Anonymous]

As a carpenter/builder I myself would probably run all wires in flexible conduit. I can't say ive look at one of LGB's switches so are the motors covered? And you all said some thing about a controller? Explain please. How well do uncouplers work?

Carpenter Matt

[bman36]

Hey again,
LGB's switch motors come as a small rectangular box that attaches to the side of the switch. You can get details at www.lgb.com . As for the controller it is required to operate the switches and is hardwired in. Conduit is good as long as it is for direct bury. Otherwise use PVC pipe and the appropriate wiring. Auto uncouplers are really just a small ramp placed in the centre of the track wherever needed. As the two couplers pass over it, it trips the coupler from the bottom. The actual design varies with each manufacturer. Hope this helps. Later eh...Brian.

[bman36]

vsmith,
I'll wait until I'm as old as you before I try "running in the snow". If I'm crazy enough to try that my wife would probably lock me out and laugh through the window. For today it's Tim Hortons hot chocolate and just stay in! Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

Thanks to all!!! You've all been a big Help!

Carpenter Matt

[dandylines]

I'll just add two recommendations: keep fertilizers away from the switch machines, especially liquid types will get into the case and cause rapid corrosion of the electrical circuit. Secondly, you may need to boost the voltage to maintain a good positive throw, especially when you are doing several functions at once or you have long distances in the wiring where you would have a voltage drop from the wires resistance.

[Anonymous]

Several members of our garden RR club use pneumatic (air) to control their switches (turnouts) with very good results and NO wiring hassles. The air tubing does have to be protected from the sun since it's not UV resistant. Just bury it in the ballast next to the track.

OLD DAD

[BudSteinhoff]

My switches are run from 18 volts AC with no booster or LGB controller.
I use the Aristo remote switch controllers and some of the switches are up to 100 ft from the controller,
Have worked fine for several years with plenty of power.
Bud[8D]

[Anonymous]

Well... where to begin? I have used LGB switches for a year and a half on my layout so far and so have personal experience with them and their wiring. The nice thing about them is that the switches do work fairly well except that the begginning is hard if you balast them but after a few weeks of constant use all the balast stops getting in the way and they work well. They are built fairly well and are easily enough to work with. I have found however, that all of the problems in running trains on my layout come from those LGB switches. I have recently decided to use Sunset Valley switches in all of my new areas being constructed, and will then go back and replace the LGB switches that are currently in place. I decided this because the Sunset Valley turnouts are the same price (for the kit) and are #6. The larger the turnout the better as everything goes smoother. Those come highly reccomended by everyone I have every met that uses them. I'm then planning to use all my old LGB switches in my logging camp where my shay and climax will be used primarily (and hopefully a heisler in the future!) so having the larger radius is not nearly as much of a problem. If you are running large engines and 6 axled diesels, then the smaller radii could cause you issues. I run one SD40-2 and it always has problems on my LGB switches. I do think that LGB released a new switch with a much larger radius, but have not looked into them because i have found the Sunset Valley turnouts to be of such a high quality. The Sunset Valley also look more realistic (if you care), but the LGB does not in any way look bad. As for the pneumatic remote control, I storngly agree that switches in hard to reach locations should be remote, and I am eventually planning on having all of my switches hooked up for air control as the Del-aire system has also come very highly reccomended to me. Good luck with your decision and I hope I have helped more than babbled!

[bman36]

Hey All,
I like the idea of using air for switching. I take it the system has a water filter to avoid freeze ups come fall. Who sells the systems? Has anyone here made their own? All sounds quite interesting to me. Love to tinker so I may try something down in the shop myself! Later eh...Brian.

[Anonymous]

The wide radius LGB switches seem to work very well on my elevated layout. They are
available at reasonable prices from select internet hobby shops. No special controller
is necessary. I use mini spdt mon. switches on my control panel and they are reliable
and fast acting. A piece of duct tape over the machine provides protection from the
weather. Leaves and small branches are a problem, but my leaf-blowing car takes
care of that.

[Dick Friedman]

In our Garden RR Club, members use all types of turnouts and switching machines. I opted for air (Del Aire from C&O RWY in Oregon). Now they sell another brand, with UV resistent air lines. The air hook up is simple, as a spring returns the turnout to the "normal" direction when the air is removed. I use a big air reservoir (don't have a compresssor), and it seems fine for my needs, as all my switches are in a yard or to the main. My track and turnouts are code 250 aluminum from Llagas Creek. They are really nice #6 on the mainline and #4 in the yard.

[Anonymous]

***, I scraped all my American Flyer track because it was aluminum and hated the maintence. What's your secret for keeping aluminum track clean? I'll look into the "Air thing" some more.

thanks Carpenter Matt

[mkblk]

Thought I'd throw my 2 cents in, it seems everyone else has (that's a good thing). Looks like there are more than a few ways to power turnouts. Since I'm building a new garden railway in the Spring, I'm paying a lot of attention to ideas regarding wiring.

Although I'll be running live steam, as previously pointed out, remote turnouts would definitely benefit from electrical or pnuematic operation. I'm tending toward the electric solution and plan to bury low voltage cable (like Lunalite's) in the ballast parallel with all the track in the layout. This cable is designed for in-ground use and appears to be of a substantial gauge thus minimizing voltage drop. Accessories such as Cable Connectors and Taps are readily available from home improvement and hardware stores. This stuff assembles by applying compression with a pair of pliers. No wire nuts or soldering is necessary. Plus, you can tap into it anywhere on the layout. This will also power buildings and structures (12 volts). Lamps are available in a number of wattages starting at 4 watts. Also, the lamps are available in green and red in addition to clear! The power pack (transformer) is weatherproof as long as you plug it into a ground fault receptacle. If you do go this route, be sure to check the power rating of the powerpack. They come in different ratings and that could limit the distance they are effective over. The low voltage system in the front of my house can handle about 100 watts, while the one in the back yard is rated for 50 watts. These units usually come with timer's or photo cells, but they are easily over-ridden. By the way, the system in the back yard has been in operation for 20 years!

Since I don't yet have any turnouts, I don't know what voltage they require. I'm hoping 12 volts!

[Anonymous]

Mkblk, I like your idea of the low voltage system Iknow exactly what your taking about, connections and tthe system and all. it would be neat to put structures street lamps etc. on one trans former and incorporate the photocell so structures lights would come on all the time, might keep my kids and dog from walking on them after dark.

thanks Carpenter Matt

[Dick Friedman]

Llagas Creek Aluminum track is code 250, so it's about three times the size of American Flyer, and it's solid. Parts of my house are wired with aluminum wire (slightly smaller than the rail), and it works fine. Al is the the second best conductor of electricity next to copper. I clean it with a wall sander that I've replaced the original sander with scotchbright so it won't score the rail. When running trains, I usually have a bobber caboose with a cleaning block in one of the consists. It probably also helps that I live in Sacramento, where there's not a lot of moisture. (We have two seasons here: hot and dry, and cooler and not so dry.)

[mkblk]

*** -

You're correct in that aluminum is a good conductor [tup] and will work fine for our #1 gauge trains, however, you should talk to an electrician about your aluminum house wiring. Here, in Bucks County, PA, it's against code to use aluminum wiring because it is more brittle/stiffer [tdn] than copper and can vibrate loose from electrical switches and outlets (house voltage). We've had homes burn to the ground because of aluminum wiring. [:(]

mk

[Anonymous]

I started out with having all the turnouts on my tiny garden railway powered. The more that I ran the trains though, the less I relied on the powered switching from a remote location. I discovered that for the very few times that I ended up switching I would do it manually so that I could see for mself that the switch had actually been thrown all the way because my biggest bane are derailments at/on the switches. For the most part though I just leave my switches alone so that I can just sit back and enjoy my trains running.[2c]