Yes, I have and loved it...
It was my first ever install and I chose to use the EVO from RCS in a trail car...although the loco is huge on the inside and can go totally independent of a trail car...I have since moved the EVO from the trail car and plan on using it in a Saddletanker I have in pieces.
Tony (RCS) has a online tutorial on this engine that can be found here:
RCS
I plan on getting my 45 tonner back inservice once I finish all my Steam conversions.
call this guy if you have any further questions:
Dave Goodson
and while I am no pro, if you need further from me please ask! Most installs that I have seen place the speaker in the tank and batteries under 1 hood and the RC under the other.
cale
Well, it started out as a 45-tonner, and although I changed a bit, the basic premise should be the same. RCS plus Sierra Sound.
I used the fuel tanks for the speaker. I built an "engine" to hide the batteries.
You wouldn't need to to that, you could put them under the hood. Same with the electronics. The hood has a nice removable section to hide the switches that you need. There really is LOTS of room and everything is easily accessible.
To me, the key was rewiring the trucks. I got rid of the plungers and ran wires directly to the motors.
It's one of my favorites.
Here is how I did mine.
http://archive.mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=24175
Best wishes,Tony Walsham (Remote Control Systems) http://www.rcs-rc.comModern technology. Old fashioned reliability.
Check out Bruce's website - http://www.jbrr.com/html/boxcab.html on his boxcab though no a lot of specifics there or in the article on the battery/RC conversion.
Bruce and/or Tony,
When I went to remove the plungers on mine, I basically wound up chiselly out the pcb they are attached to inside the trucks to remove them (it's much easier with the shay trucks!!!). Is there an easier way or trick to removing the plungers?
Also, I saw the red dot on the motor. I am assuming that is to keep polarity straight?
Thanks, Brian
Brian.
I don't think I had to use any force to get the pcb out.
However, it has been awhile since I did the 45 Tonner and to be honest I can't remember.
If anyone is looking for one of these locos to try this conversion - contact me at dmunseyjr@comcast.net I have one - unused (never run - still have original box and papers) - that I bought to convert to halfinch standard gauge and it's just too large!!
Will sell or swap.
Don Munsey, Jr
Don Munsey, Jr S/Sn42 and Hn42 river logging fan Big Sandy & Cumberland RR & VGN Rwy fan Bonsai enthusiast Living in UpperRight Corner of Louisiana
Thanks Cale. I'm glad I'm not the only one.
-Brian
TonyWalsham
Thanks for your article. Very well explained. Exelent pix.
hi alttarain,
There is a very simple way to get the pcb's out of the trucks. Take all the screws out, and with a pin ,like a small finishing nail , drive the axels back from the "Long -Spacer_Side". Take the pcb's out in one piece, and push the axels back again. Make sure you put the idlers back the right way. Afterwards i filled the 4 holes left on the side where the pick-ups were with pieces of styrene. One truck i did with pieces of brass, but they were a little hard to cut and file the proper size for the resess.
Good luck
I tried that on mine and they did not want to budge. They busted up pretty easily though.
This is what half of my 45 tonner (power truck and very modified hood) is looking like these days - a soon to be completed 7/8n2 scale rail truck -
OH Brian.
How sweet it is.
More picture please. How did you redo the hood?
Thanks Tony. I thought you would like this one. I have a thread going over on LSC - http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=8405
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