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G-Scale Newbie questions please be bare with me.

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G-Scale Newbie questions please be bare with me.
Posted by Allegheny2-6-6-6 on Thursday, January 10, 2008 9:26 PM

We just picked up our first G-scale set for my 5 year old, well at least that was the original premise. I am very heavy into HO and have been for some time so I am not totally oblivious to MRR. We picked up a Bachmann Blue Comet from a very nice person on craigslist, it's it really really nice shape but I have several questions to you larger railroaders. Does it matter what power supply is used? I ask because it came with one of those cheapy Bachmann one's that we all used to throw away. It worked but the train didn't have very much speed is this normal for G-scale? I replaced it with a conventional HO DC power supply that I had laying around. Running DCC now so not too much use for analog stuff. As for the operation of the train, if anyone knows are there any other sounds other then the chuff?  Also do they have inherent problems with the couplers? It has knuckle couplers mounted  on it but also came with what looks like Euro style couplers. They appear to lock when you back the engine into the cars but just uncouple at random when pulling. Do they make coupler height gages etc. for G-scale? They all look to be aligned and at proper heights. I guess I will have to build and extension on to the workbench to accommodate this monster and have a look see as to what going on.

  This place is a great source of information so naturally it was my first stop. My wife and I are already looking forward to building our first ouside garden railroad this spring so I am trying to learn as mcuh as I can with out breaking thebank with mistakes like I have done in the past with HO............lol we all know how expensive trains can be.

I have a  new 20' x 30' HO in the works as well as my old set up which is 14' x 17' around  the room two level railroad, an N-scale around the office of my shop and my friend and I are working on my son's O scale layout which Santa brought him for Christmas. Gee ya think I got bit with the train bug.....................lol

Thanks in advanced for all your help.

Just my 2 cents worth, I spent the rest on trains. If you choked a Smurf what color would he turn?
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Posted by altterrain on Thursday, January 10, 2008 10:15 PM

Your instincts were right about the Bachmann power pack - underpowered and not known to be terribly reliable. 

The Bachmann couplers are not the best either. Most serious garden railroaders are using Kadees (the #1 size but some use the G scale ones). I use Aristo couplers on all my stuff. There have been articles on modifying The Bachmann couplers to make them perform better and one well known character swears by them.

Your engine is known as a Big Hauler ten wheeler, which there have been 5 different drive train configurations, each a bit better than the last. The lastest, fifth generation is pretty reliable. The Big Haulers are not particularly fast (but neither is the prototype)especially on the 4 foot diameter track. To identify your Big Hauler and get some tips go here - http://www.girr.org/girr/tips/tips1/big_hauler_tips.html.

The basic huff and chuff is about it, very basic. You can do much better with Pheonix, Sound traxx or a budget friendly Small Scale Railway sound card - http://www.smallscalerailway.com/.

-Brian 

 

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Posted by JD Miller on Thursday, January 10, 2008 11:16 PM

Your Blue Comet was cataloged by Bachmann from 1997 to 1999. Set number is 90028.

After checking George's site you should be able to determine if it has the Version 4 or Version 5 drive train.  The Version 5 was introduced by Bachmann in some of their sets during 1999.  There is a possibility that your Blue Comet could have the Version 5 drive train if it was a set produced in 1999.  Chances are though that the set has the Version 4 drive system.  The set could even have a Version 3 drive if produced in 1997.  The Version 4 only was produced for a couple of years

Follow George's advice on service for these locomotives.  If you have a Version 4 drive, they also had a tendency for the main axle drive gear to slip on the axle. These are direct drive systems with no intermediate gearing.

Keep the drive system lubricated and don't overload the locomotive. Two to three passenger coaches will not overstress the locomotive.

The Bachmann couplers can be helped by a coat of paint.  I spray all Bachmann knuckle couplers with Krylon flat black or ruddy brown. A coat of paint seems to help eliminate unwanted uncouplings.   I use Bachmann knuckle couplers on all rolling stock no matter the manufacturer of the equipment.  I really don't have a problem with their couplers. Bachmann couplers have been in use on equipment since 1994. 

I only use the Aristo-Craft couplers on Aristo-Craft equipment.  I've found the Aristo couplers are just as problematical, if not more so, than the Bachmann couplers.  But then, to each his own.

If all else fails, then install the hook and loop couplers.

 Good luck with your Blue Comet.

 

 

JD Cleveland, Delphos, and St. Louis RY Home of BUCK The Wonder Dog
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Posted by two tone on Friday, January 11, 2008 11:46 AM
Two things spring to mind on your post  1 I use the train engineer to control my locos it gives me a very controlable speed.  2 knuckle couplers use a little oil that you use on the loco rods I find this stops then un coupling plus look at your layout is the ballast to high on the inside of the track? this can course the couplers to come apart     Hope this helps

                Age is only a state of mind, keep the mind active and enjoy life

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Posted by Dick Friedman on Friday, January 18, 2008 6:44 PM
Another nudist garden RR, eh?

I've found the Bachmann Big Haulers pretty reliable if you don't push them too hard. You didn't ask about the track, so I assume you've set it aside for storing equipment indoors.
With an HO pack you won't get the highest possilbe voltage (G runs up to about 22v) but again, several of our members started with HO packs. I actually started with an N-scale pack.

About them couplers... There are more opinions than there are types of couplers. I'm slowly converting to Kadees because I wasn't watching what I was buying and got half a dozen different couplers, most of which can be forced to connect to each other, but they don't like it much.

A friend and I double head those engines, and they look pretty nice pulling a six or seven car train.
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Posted by Capt Bob Johnson on Friday, January 18, 2008 8:07 PM
In case that last post confused you, the bachmann track is useless for outdoor layouts, very quick to rust away!   Get brass or ss track, yeah, $$$$ but long lived and quite useful!
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Posted by DannyS on Sunday, January 20, 2008 1:50 PM

Do not jump in too soon to scrap the Bachmann Knuckler Coupler, like JD I have standardised on these for all my equipment, I have over 60 cars and 20 locomotives, all fitted with the Bachmann Knuckle Coupler, virtually trouble free operation.  Worth perservering with, as you bought this train secondhand, a little bit of maintenance may be needed.

You will find as you purchasse other manufacturers equipment, that the Bachmann Knuckle Coupler will retrofit all other makes including Aristocraft, LGB, USA Trains etc.

 

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Posted by kimbrit on Sunday, January 20, 2008 3:34 PM

I've been doing this for years and now all my knuckle couplers are in a box. I use hook and loops and nothing gets disconnected! I do agree that the Bachmann is a good coupler but I tend to work in the garden with a train going round that's not being watched, just listened too, and they did disconect when something hit the drop bar, doesn't happen with hook and loop! As with all things, what works for you.......................

Cheers,

Kim

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