my snap track development

[FJ and G]

Snap-Track

Here’s my latest invention. Do you recall the HO and 3-rail O snap-track; you know, the plastic fake looking roadbed? I decided to create my own snap track version that can be used in the same way as snap track, creating sections that can be quickly hooked together. I have the steps here, sans rails, which you can add.

The main advantage is that the ballast, crusher fines, don’t wash away, especially if your track is up on a ridge, subject to frequent erosions. As well, you don’t need spleens to hold the track in place, especially on curves.

The main disadvantage is that weeds cannot grow between the ties. Therefore, I’m only going to build a couple of sections in some high spots that might wash out. I’ll float the track in ballast in the lower areas so weeds can sprout between the ties, as I’m modeling a little-used narrow-gauge shortline with weedy tracks.

The Process:

1. make a straight or curved form

2. place ties (might be wise to use rubber cement to hold the ties in place so they won’t move when pouring concrete).

3. Pour crusher fines (slurry) around the ties, about 3/8 of an inch or so, so that half of the tie depth is covered (you want the crushers deep enough to embed into the cement but not too deep that the ties don’t get a good “bite” into the cement.

4. Pour about 2 inches of cement. The cement will embed and hold the ties and crusher fines. You can add rebar if you wish (I didn’t). I’d recommend a non rust metal rebar to prevent eventual cracking of the cement due to rusty rebar.

5. Cover the work and keep it moist for a couple of days until it cures, then you can remove the clamps or whatever you are holding the mold together with. The mold can be scrap wood.

[altterrain]

That's interesting, Dave. Though I'm not sure "snap" track is the descriptive term I would use. I imagine it probably goes down with more of a "thud". I must have missed out on the plastic roadbed era of snap track. Back in my early days the original snap track was what Atlas called their sectional track. How are you going to handle curves and switches in your system?

-Brian 

[cabbage]

David,

I love it -but it is nothing that you would find in my garden!!! We are desperately trying to get rid of pieces of concrete at the moment -both with a 7Kg sledge and an angle grinder with a stone and steel cutting disc... I also like the haphazard way the sleepers are. The ones comming out of my track making jig look too "polished perfect" to be real in my view -but after having made several hundred of them with it, I suppose I will have to stick with it!

regards

ralph

[alamosa]

Dave, Out of curiosity - how much does that section you made weigh ?

[S&G Rute of the Silver River]

very interesting, is there any steel in the concrete, or are you gona rely on the rails to keep the ridigity?

Sorry just thinking that'd be great for all them travelin layouts. now they might need a semi to transport all of them...

[FJ and G]

Thanks, all.

Brian, curves? Simply make a curved mold using Styrofoam.

Alamosa, I’d say around 25-30 pounds.

S&G: concrete itself is rigid. I’d probably add rebar for strength if you step on it. But not steel rebar. I’d use corner bead or some type of brass, aluminum or stainless steel rod, simply b/c the roadbed is too porous (concrete can take water) and with the section being thin, it would rust. Lastly, I’d put the roadbed on crusher fines to cushion it for added protection when you step on it; not that a crack would be a major problem or anything like that anyway.

Lastly, it you want to use this in exposed areas (as opposed to surrounding it with soil), you can make the sides beveled by tilting the wood molding inward to form a beveled look. Also, I'd substitute styrofoam for wood and rough the styrofoam up a bit so the roadbed appears more amorphous and less clean cut and artificial.

Anyway, this is my first experimental piece and I will produce a couple more but that will be it, as I want weeds to grow between the tracks.

On a final note, you can easily pick up and move the pieces should you ever want track realignment. I think this would ease Ralph's concern.

[SNOWSHOE]

All the reading I have been doing on old posts I really like your style, especially how you make your track.  I only wish I had that kind of talent.  I have a question for you.  I am looking into trying to make my own tracks.  Mainly making the ties and just buying rail.  Would it be possible to get a small section like a foot of one of your made tracks and is so for how much.  I saw an old post of yours where you had pictures of the switches and track you made.  Forget where I saw that.  I really liked the way you did it.  I am the type where I need to physicaly see something in oprder to be able to make it.  Sounds dumb i know but I am weird at least thats what my wife says . 

[FJ and G]

Hi,

 

I'm using both gauge 0 and gauge 1 (SE 18 and SE 2 both at 1:13.7).  Here's my SE 18, 18" gauge prototype at O gauge model (SE 2 can be faintly seen in the distance).

 

The SE 18 is using code 148, which is in the neighborhood of 20 or 25 lb per yard. Problem is that crusher fines blow up against the rails.

 

Thus, I'm considering relaying all the SE 18 as "snap track" so that it is fixed in place!

 

Snowshoe:

 

We can communicate off line; just shoot me an email. Before we get to sending stuff in the mail, I would like to go over an online tutorial re: track laying, talking you along with others commenting.

 

Firstly, I need to know what scale and gauge you are modeling as well as era. This will determine your tie size and spacing, as well as code of rail. We will get you through this together! Turnouts are particularly challenging! But can be done by you!

 

here's code 148 O gauge, with unpainted figure I'm making and scratchbuilt cars. The snap track in the above photo at beginning of this post will be for dual gauge.

 

 

[dwbeckett]

Dave, if you angel the form in , bottem of mold to top of mold ,  you would have edge balist going the wrong way, try sloping the edges out from bottem to top.

Dave 

[SNOWSHOE]

Hi,

 

I'm using both gauge 0 and gauge 1 (SE 18 and SE 2 both at 1:13.7).  Here's my SE 18, 18" gauge prototype at O gauge model (SE 2 can be faintly seen in the distance).

 

The SE 18 is using code 148, which is in the neighborhood of 20 or 25 lb per yard. Problem is that crusher fines blow up against the rails.

 

Thus, I'm considering relaying all the SE 18 as "snap track" so that it is fixed in place!

 

Snowshoe:

 

We can communicate off line; just shoot me an email. Before we get to sending stuff in the mail, I would like to go over an online tutorial re: track laying, talking you along with others commenting.

 

Firstly, I need to know what scale and gauge you are modeling as well as era. This will determine your tie size and spacing, as well as code of rail. We will get you through this together! Turnouts are particularly challenging! But can be done by you!

 

here's code 148 O gauge, with unpainted figure I'm making and scratchbuilt cars. The snap track in the above photo at beginning of this post will be for dual gauge.

 

 

 

I sent you an e-mail if you did not get it let me know. Thanks again

[dwbeckett]

So Dave how's the snap track working? Haven't seen anything new lately.

Dave 

[FJ and G]

Hi Dave,

 

What a coincidence you'd ask! As of yesterday, I'm taking half days off to work on emplacing the tracks. I'll try to get a snapshot today to post for tomorrow; concrete still wet. (warm weather allowing me to concrete. shifting 80lb bags around is really great exercise! 

[FJ and G]

I told my boss the weather is nice and I MUST work on my railroad, so for next 2 weeks I’m taking half days off to work. All photos below were taken yesterday afternoon.

My “snap-track” development (precast roadbed) can be seen in the first 2 photos, transitioning between the raised archs. The snap track allows easy removal, and since ballast already is embedded into the concrete, there’s no ballasting and no washouts, especially good since the snaptrack is sitting atop a ridge!





Sections of archway are connected with concrete. The concrete is darker since it is still “green”



Winter heather has been in full blossom (pink) since February. Even when there’s snow (very rare here), the blossoms come out



vegetation already is creeping trackside in the next photos; as I lay new track, I’m simply going to abandon some of the old, as I like to see what nature does, just like the real deal!









Could this perhaps be the beginning of a mine shaft!?



you ain’t nothin’ but a hound doggy

[dwbeckett]

I told my wife I needed to work on my RR, She said were doing a ROAD TRIP to Phoenix Az. So I charged up the batteries for both digital's and tanked up. we leave at 0 dark thirty friday. Since I do most of the driving we are going by way of Tehachapi, plan is to go by the loop IF I CAN. MUST USE NEW CAMERA.

west coast Dave