I am located in eastern MA. Dig a trench where you want the track to go. The trench should be about 6 inches wide and about 3 inches deep. Fill the trench with crushed granite and bring it up about a half inch or so above the edge of the trench. Lay the track onto that surface and then add stone dust on top of the rails. This method will ensure that water drains away from the rails. Over time the stone dust will filter down into the roadbed and you will have to reballast. My track has been on the ground for 5 years. The first 2 or 3 years I reballasted the entire line each year. I have not had any problems with heaving or water puddling up. I don't use my garden railroad after the end of summer in September. Every spring it has been right where I left it and with little time spent clearing away leaves I am ready to go. Getting started is IMO one of the best times with a garden railroad. It transforms an ordinary yard into something most people have no concept of understanding or imagining. It will take some effort to trench out the roadbed, but it will be worth it. Have fun planning your railroad over the winter, you will be chomping at the bit to get out in the spring and start working. Good luck.
Respectfully
Pete
I'll offer a counter to the usual trench method...depending on where you live it may not be the best idea. In southern MN it was a disaster. I ended up pulling up over 600 feet of track and went indoors until i could find a method suitable for here.
Fred Mills in Ottawa, Canada uses pressure treated 2X 6 or 8 on the ground and does not have to contend with any frost heave issues, drainage disasters as had track fully supported when something falls on it.
Marty Cozad uses mostly concrete roadbed for much the same reasons. I urge you to conisder all methods relative to your specific needs and conditions before you adopt "one size fits all".
Andre'
I agree with Andre. I tried that floating track idea in northern Virginia....and ended up tearing up all of my track as well. Too much maintenance. Now, I use the ladder method with track firmly attached. Much better. There's a log of my construction over at http://www.largescalecentral.com/LSCForums/viewtopic.php?id=6204
I used the trench and fill method for the first layout. It worked okay except for washouts. We are on the side of a hill and in any good rain, the runoff would cut the roadbed.
When we started the big layout, I went with concrete for the flat areas and Mainline Enterprise (now Split Jaw) plastic roadbed for the areas with grade. With both roadbeds I still float my track by having a least a 3/8" layer of ballast between the roadbed and the bottom of the ties. We are in South Texas and the bright summer sun will play havoc on any track that is "nailed down" due to problems with heat expansion of the track.
Having a solid subroadbed makes it easy to install and maintane smooth, even track.
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