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Power connections

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  • Member since
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  • From: Cape Cod
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Power connections
Posted by bogpondrail on Sunday, August 19, 2007 10:25 AM
I'm in the process of laying my first ourside G-scale track and would like suggestions as to how and best methods to connect electrical power to the track.
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Posted by ttrigg on Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:32 PM
Dick;

In the past few weeks there have been several threads here about track wiring.  In general any direct bury low voltage wire will do the job, connected every 100 ft or so.  For more details look at the older threads.

Tom Trigg

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Posted by EMPIRE II LINE on Sunday, August 19, 2007 1:46 PM

Now if you are going to use MTH's DCS system, that is another thing, so look at all of the recent threads on that too....

Byron 

He Wore Arrow Shirts Too
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Posted by altterrain on Sunday, August 19, 2007 6:44 PM

I use 16 or 14 (for longer runs) gauge low voltage landscape wire with a soldered ring terminal on the end.

 

I then connect them to spots where I have split jaw rail clamps.

 

Hillman's will work also, but they use a smaller screw so you need a smaller ring terminal.

-Brian 

 

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Posted by two tone on Monday, August 20, 2007 3:09 PM
You Guys suprise me that you need to add extra power every 100 ft or so I run over 400ft and only use 1 input. If youve got a good power supply and good rail connections thats all you should need i run anolouge do not know a lot about MTS so as I say if you need more than 1 input look for a better input and good controller. I use the train engineer with this I can cotrol all my turn outs and run my locos with no problems..   but each to his ownBow [bow]

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Posted by altterrain on Monday, August 20, 2007 4:40 PM

 two tone wrote:
You Guys suprise me that you need to add extra power every 100 ft or so I run over 400ft and only use 1 input. If youve got a good power supply and good rail connections thats all you should need i run anolouge do not know a lot about MTS so as I say if you need more than 1 input look for a better input and good controller. I use the train engineer with this I can cotrol all my turn outs and run my locos with no problems..   but each to his ownBow [bow]

brass track with soldered jumpers or rail clamps all around? 

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Posted by emipapa on Monday, August 20, 2007 5:20 PM

Bogpondrail,

I also live on Cape Cod, I use a rail clamp with the wire soldered into a wire-end and then placed under the allen machine screw of the rail clamp as a previous post showed. By the way WELCOME to the forum.

Ron

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 20, 2007 8:31 PM

Sign - Welcome [#welcome]

Frog at da Swamp

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 20, 2007 8:31 PM

Sign - Welcome [#welcome]

Frog at da Swamp

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Posted by two tone on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:51 PM
No I use normal fish plates and graphite grease, as iv`e said never had any problemsSmile [:)] Been running for over 3 years now and iv`e made changes to layout always pinch fish plates before connecting them and a bit of grease. Give 100% running no breaks in power out put around the layout. Metere gives me same reading no matter where I test it 

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Posted by markperr on Tuesday, August 21, 2007 3:14 PM

Both split-jaw and Hillman make a single screw type track connector that you can place between any pair of ties.  They incorporate the ring terminal as mentioned by Brian. They're relatively inexpensive, couple bucks.

Mark

 

 

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Posted by Greg Elmassian on Wednesday, August 22, 2007 9:30 PM

The frequency of power feeds depends on a lot of things.

If you run DC track power, the inevitable voltage drop is compensated by some more throttle.

If you run a system that has constant power to the rails, the drop is more noticable in my opinion.

Also, stainless steel needs more feeds since it is about 10 times less conductive, thus the voltage drop will be more pronounced.

The number of locos you run, i.e. the current drawn also makes a big difference, since the voltage drop is directly proportional to the current.

I run stainless steel, and DCC (constant voltage) so I found power feeds ever 20-30 feet are necessary.

Also, voltage drops "through" switches can be pretty large, often the wires in the switch that "jump" the power "through" it can be of pretty small gauge, adding to the voltage drop.

Regards, Greg

Visit my site: http://www.elmassian.com - lots of tips on locos, rolling stock and more.

 Click here for Greg's web site

 

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