Question on size 1:20.3

[SP&S700]

Is the Bachman "Big Hauler" series 1:20.3? It looks close to that size but I can't find anything on it, and they don't mark their boxes with scale.

[GearDrivenSteam]

If memory serves me correctly, the Big Hauler stuff is 1:22.5.

[altterrain]

yup, the Big Haulers are "G scale", 1:22.5

-Brian 

[jerryl]

I think it's close to 22.5 or LGB meter scale.  ( 39'' instead of 36'' ) . At the time it was brought out LGB was the "standard" & they followed.  For all practical purposes it will pass for 20.3. & has been used by many modelers as such. If you are real picky you could raise the cab roof a mite.   Jerry

[Curmudgeon]

Cab up and wider.

LOTS of work.

The "scale" is 1:22.5, which makes the track meter GAUGE.

You will have to widen the tender, running boards, maybe a new stack, depending on prototype.

Their 2-8-0 IS 1:20.

 

[GearDrivenSteam]

Scale size really isn't a huge issue for me. I use several different scales. My rule is, if it looks ok to me, I use it. If someone asks what I model, I tell them 1:20.3 narrow gauge, BUT I use it if it looks good. Like right now, I'm scratch building some skeleton log cars just to see if I can do it. Am I using 1:20.3 scale as a guide? Hell no. I am building them to 1/24 scale because it's a lot easier for ME. When I'm done, they'll look good, too.

[FJ and G]

Personally, I'd rather err on the side of building them too big than too small, as bigger is always better.

[kstrong]

Bachmann's "Big Hauler" line is 1:22.5. There are a few "exceptions" but suffice to say none are truly scaled at 1:20.3. Their current "Spectrum" line is the only line that's all 1:20.3.

There have been a fair number of folks who have "upscaled" their 4-6-0 quite effectively. The loco scales out to 7' 6" wide when measured to 1:20.3, which is right in the ballpark of many 3' gauge locomotives--especially those built prior to around 1910. The cab does need to be raised a bit (it scales to 5' 2" out of the box), but that, and a slightly taller stack, and you've got a right good-looking locomotive. Here's a link to one of my favorites, built by Jack Thompson:
http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/Big65Dude/Loco%20No.%2012/P6050050.jpg

New cab, new stack, actually shortened the tender, lots of new details, but nothing added to the width.

I've long been one to take what's available in 1:22.5 and see how effectively it will work in 1:20.3. (See my article "Upscale Modeling" in the June '07 issue of GR). Generally speaking, any 1:22.5 model with a doorway on it needs to be raised a bit, but I've been able to find prototypes that nearly match the dimensions of many pieces of 1:22.5 (and some 1:24) freight rolling stock when measured with a 1:20.3 scale ruler. (At least the US stuff.)

And contrary to what was posted earlier, it's not "lots of work." Kitbashing (and scratchbuilding) is surprisingly simple once you sit down to do it. I did a series on using various building materials a few years ago, and Bruce Chandler has just started a series on scratchbuilding a box car in the current issue. There are plenty of resources to help you along the way.

Later,

K

[hoofe116]

Where can I procure a 1:20.3 ruler (or scale?) Ozark Miniatures is out of stock.

Thanks,

Les W.

[Rastun]

try http://www.thescalecard.com

 

Jack 

[kstrong]

The really cheap and easy way is to find any ruler that has millimeters on one edge, and take a fine-pointed Sharpie and make a tick mark every 15mm. That's all I use. Figure every 5mm is 4", so every 2.5mm is 2".

What's even nicer about using existing rulers is that you're all set to scale plans from drawings, too. Many drawings are done to 3/16" = 1', or 1/4" = 1'. So, you measure the plan on the imperial side, figure out how long it is, then flip the ruler around and use the metric side to translate it to 1:20.3. (If you plans are HO or N scale, your out of luck, but...)

Later,

K

[Rex in Pinetop]

Of course you could use a CAD system and print drawings to whatever scale you wanted them to be.  I guess that would be too easy though.

Rex

[FJ and G]

The really cheap and easy way is to find any ruler that has millimeters on one edge, and take a fine-pointed Sharpie and make a tick mark every 15mm. That's all I use. Figure every 5mm is 4", so every 2.5mm is 2".

What's even nicer about using existing rulers is that you're all set to scale plans from drawings, too. Many drawings are done to 3/16" = 1', or 1/4" = 1'. So, you measure the plan on the imperial side, figure out how long it is, then flip the ruler around and use the metric side to translate it to 1:20.3. (If you plans are HO or N scale, your out of luck, but...)

 

Great tip! 

[hoofe116]

KStrong:

I stand--well, sit--awed at the simplicity of genius. Or is it the other way 'round? Take it as a compliment, however you take it.

Moving from working to 0.0001 and often to 0.00001" to hack marks on a wooden ruler--that's retirement the way it ought to be!

Les