I plan to install 2 Left Hand switches, attached at their curved ends to connect 2 parallel straight sections of the layout. Here is an attempt at a graphic representation:
Oh, well, you get the idea.
My question is: Can I get away with using only 1 controller for the 2 of them?
I can't think of any condition where I would want only one thrown in the curved direction, and I would not know how to wire in the anti-derail feature with the switches abutting one another. If I use the anti-derail wiring on the straight sections, it would cause both to be set in the straight mode, which is what I want.
FWIW, they use the Z-Stuff DZ-1000 controller/actuators.
Is there a down side to this? I will be trying it in a couple of days, and if it blows up, I will let you know.
Hi Bob
What you want to do can be done, but it takes patience and work to get it to happen. You didn't say what type of track you are using, so I am guessing Gargraves/Ross sectional for your layout. Tubular works also but would be a little harder. FastTrak is much more difficult and I wouldn't know how.
For the best result, you should add a half section or full section if you can between the two curved portions. of the turnouts. If the spacing is such that a half section is too large, try to play with the track setup or cut the track into a smaller section. This WILL allow you to wire for Non-Derailing. If you don't you will liable have an issue down the road. It is easy to cut the track and put the appropriate pins to make it connect properly as the Z-stuff instructions indicate.
The LEDs may need be reversed as you are throwing the switches the Green/Red may be backwards indicators. This may not matter to you. If the control button is adjacent to the turnout, it may not matter at all since you can see the turnout's position.
The Z-stuff instructions are pretty simple. Start with the first turnout and wire it. It doesn't matter which one you wire first. Then wire the second turnout, reversing the R L wiring. I believe the Z1000s have white and green wires for R/L and the 2500s have Yellow Green.
There another way using a 1008 relay to throw the second switch, but more complicated wiring.
You should look at the Zstuff site under applications. Dennis doesn't have a wiring diagram to do exactly what you want, but if you look at the application - Wiring a Ross Double Crossover - you will that you are basically doing the same thing, one way or half of it. That will give you a picture and words to follow. Then there is Dennis...he will answer your email.
Hope this helps
Ralph
Don't reverse the wiring between the turnouts. You want both curved at the same time or both straight at the same time.
Bob Nelson
cheech .... For the best result, you should add a half section or full section if you can between the two curved portions. of the turnouts. If the spacing is such that a half section is too large, try to play with the track setup or cut the track into a smaller section. This WILL allow you to wire for Non-Derailing. If you don't you will liable have an issue down the road. It is easy to cut the track and put the appropriate pins to make it connect properly as the Z-stuff instructions indicate. ...
....
...
That is right: When I started laying down the tracks, I noticed that if I put the curved ends of the switches together, there would be only one insulated pin left at the junction. Not good for alignment. I will use a 3" section between them
I have a mix of old and newer Gargraves switches, and on one newer one, they don't connect the center rails together, this means extra wiring to provide power to them. Why do they do that?
The GG turnouts that I have purchased came with a small section of curved track to help get the rails back in parallel to the straight thru section. If you purchased these second hand, then they probably didn't come with the purchase.
ralph
cheech The GG turnouts that I have purchased came with a small section of curved track to help get the rails back in parallel to the straight thru section. If you purchased these second hand, then they probably didn't come with the purchase. ralph
These were all "New", not pre-owned. Each comes with a "Makeup" section, to equal a O-42 curve length. If you want to get the switched rails parallel to the straight thru section, you can buy a "Transition" section. Or you could cut a curve track to make a transition section using the Makeup track that came with the switch as a template. The Transition section is longer than the Makeup.
OK, I did install the 2 "back to back" switches, and it works as expected. There was no need to install the no-derailing wiring for the curve sections, and the straight anti-derail throws both switches. I just hope that the single controller can handle the load of operating 2 switches.
I was surprised/confused by the fact that the dz-1002 controller that comes with a right hand switch is not the same as the dz-1002 for a left hand switch. Same part number, but the red/green lights are in different position. I was having strange results when I grabbed the RH controller to test out a new LH switch.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
Get the Classic Toy Trains newsletter delivered to your inbox twice a month