The track sections are short at that point, and cut to fit. The diagonal section is actually cut on a diagonal flush with the edge.. I loosen the track sections a little bit and pull them back until disconnected. I've thought of trying to rig up something with wires soldered between the sections, but haven't devoted the time to that in that I don't move the layout that often. It's only been moved 4-5 times in three years to shows and events. The main thing is it is not fixed in place, so it can be moved/transported.
I've also thought of setting up a caster arrangement so the layout can be rolled, more or less on its edge. But I don't have a pressing need to do that at this time.
I really sort of built this for a future grandchild three years ago. The grandchild was born 8 months ago. Someday there will be a moment when I will want this layout to be available to him, at his house. That's a few years away, but the layout is ready to go now. Being that it can be folded and stored, the layout can be accommodated in the limited space available at my son's house; maybe played with for a while and stored away when necessary.
When I've taken it places, it takes about an hour to totally set up. That includes getting the buildings in place, legs on, ect. There are some things I could do to speed this up, if necessary.
Thanks guys for taking the time to help me out!
I under stand how the center fast track sections un hook to disassemble the seperate panels on the other style layout,
Prarietype, I only have one more question on your layout, what did you do with the track at the seam where the doors fold? I cant figure how the track can be attached to the doors and fold up with track the pins in place.
I'm picturing a joint like the old Lionel Bascule bridges use, what am I missing?
I watched your video again and I cant get enugh of watching that layout run, nice back & forth action, good realistic space for buildings, 2 trains, easy to move, I love it!
If you have any still photos photos or a list of track sections needed to build it, I might try to build a copy of this track plan on my floor to see how I like running it. I can't express how much I appreciate all the help I've recieved on this question. - Jason
My door frame layout is built with O31 track. This track is mostly track from my childhood, which I polished up abd worked on for some time in preparation. I did not actually work from my own track plan, but as mentioned in my post got inspiration from googling that website mentioned above. It had many plans for hollow core/door frame layouts. The plans are divided among O27 and O31 offerings.
I used two hinges to begin with, but revamped the layout and used a hinge strip cut to fit. I also installed 6 wooden leg mounts on the ends and in the middle. The middle leg mounts must be removed when the table is folded up (not too big of a deal). Of course the doors can be hinged side by side, as opposed to end to end; providing options for different configuration.
If you looked at my You Tube video you will notice it is labeled as being compact layout #2. Layout number one had more track on it and another switch. You can also see this layout on You Tube. The original covering of the door was a green roll of woodland scenics. Track was mounted on cork. This worked ok, but the cork was awfully hard to bend around corners. Also, I never had any real sound problems. So for the revamped layout I planned to use the time honored homasote. I went to a lumber yard and they really didn't know what it was (strange) but they suggested sound deadening board which was light weight and not expensive.
The original door frame layout had the woodland scenics covering attached with spray mount adhesive. The two ply sound deadening board and hollow core door works better. This also permitted me to use the technique illustrated in the four part CTT ""Build A Retro Layout" feature from the Fall of 2009. Framing the sides with 1x4s allows the sound deadening piece to drop right in. Track is held in place with a minimum of strategically placed screws. It is very quiet.
OK, now the wiring. On the original layout I used a router to create grooves/channels for all wiring. This barely worked, but I was able to do it in a way that the covering showed no subsurface ridges. The end result looked pretty neat, almost like Martian canal lines going here and there. It might be possible to not channel the wiring at all and just leave it sandwiched between. I did bore holes through the end of the door to provide portals for some wiring (with slack) between the two door sections
When I did the revamp, I just routed a few wider channels all the way through the surface of the hollow core door, connecting switches, accessories, UCT tracks, and lock-ons as efficiently as possible. The switch system is essentially all on one power loop. So, as you can now tell, there are no wires that go all the way through the hollow core door. The wires are actually sort of imbedded in it, and it is still a strong and stable and clean structure that is portable.
If I didn't answer all your questions, or if there are others, let me know.
Prairietype (Mark)
Jason,
The luan frame is made of strips I ripped on the table saw. The outer frame is a 4" wide strip with a 1 1/2" flange glued perpendicularly along the entire length, 1" from the top edge. Its just glued, no fasteners. It was a little tricky to keep the assembly straight while the glue cured - I used corner clamps at each end to keep everything square and small c-clamps along the whole length to maintain good contact. If you don't have corner clamps you can probably use a length of 1 x 2 as a clamping jig - just use waxed paper to keep the glue from sticking to it. Once the frame pieces were cured, I used the table saw to cut miters and assembled the corners with corner blocks ripped down from 1 x 4. The corners are glued and screwed.
That's the basic frame - you'll notice it's pretty floppy. The cross pieces stiffen the whole assembly. They are 2 1/2" with 1 1/2" flanges on top. I used a hole saw to cut all those holes - a CNC machine would have come in handy there! I used three sets of cross pieces which I think was overkill, a single set might have worked. Glue the cross pieces in place with their flanges at the same level as the frame flanges. Then glue the foam to the tops of the flanges and you're done.
One more thing - after I had my modules all finished, I decided to cut in handles - they come in handy for moving the sections and passing wires from section to section. It would have been a lot easier if I had cut them before assembling the frames.
Good luck with your project,
Neal
Cool, Thanks!,
After fighting & straightening my old o-31 track to build a 4x6 x-mass layout last night I'm now considering using super O for my year round sectional larger layout, I think it has the same curves as the modern fast track. I love the idea of the ease of use with modern fast track but I want to stick to something that came with my postwar trains
How did you attach the thin edges of the luan strips together? Is the frame Just Glued to the foam? Any other tips on how to assemble the frame work properly? I can build anything out of metal but wood working was never my strong point.
I was really leaning to the hollow door idea until I figured I can better fit my cramped attic with table tops cut to custom sizes.
Thanks for the advise! - Jason
Hi Jason,
Here's my track plan - it's O-36 fastrack - if you're using O-31you can probably fit it all in 4' x 8'
WOW! thanks for all the replys, I like the 1/4" luan & foam idea I have acess to a CNC router at work so I could build the sections easily, I like the light weight design & rolling cart to store the sections on .
I also like the idea of hollow doors for ease of construction, Its a neat layout I did not think of expanding length wise for a 30"ish x 16' layout great idea! How loud are the trains when running on it? I was worried about the hollow door acting like an amplifier or drum.
I stink at carpentry so a pre fabbed door for a table top that fits in my car sounds good, how did you mount the track and run the wiring with the bottom side closed up on the doors? Also could youys post a shot of your track plans to get an idea of what is needed to build it? I already have a bunch of O-31 track.
Thanks for the replys - Jason
I have a portable layout that is constructed on two hollow core doors: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ov4mOIFOsjc.
It exceeds your dimensions by several feet, but I constructed this so that it will fold lengthwise.
I promote the use of a hollow core door for several reasons. Number one, it is light and strong. A hollow core door can also be purchased in a number of sizes that would fit your needs, and pass up the stairwell.
You can choose from quite a number of creative solutions for legs, or put it on portable saw horses, or an existing table and so on.
If you were to design a layout with O-27 track you can probably just get a nice long passing siding next to your main line action. If you want to have a dead end siding at one end, you could create a second portable platform that could marry up to that stub siding and then continue onto a new track plan.
I got some inspiration by Googling "small compact O gauge track plans" and then dooway layouts. The doorway layout plans are great, There was quite a number to choose from.
All of this worked for me. I've taken my layout to shows, outside, moved it around the basement and so on. It usually takes two to move it because it is two door and track, but it's portable.
Good luck with your project.
Prairietype
I have a similar situation. I built a sectional layout that moves back and forth between my basement and my attic. It's made up of four 2'-3" x 4'-6" sections. When I set up in the basement I put the sections on a rolling base.
Each section weighs under 10 pounds and is made from 1/4" luan strips with 1" extruded foam on top. I hold them together with c-clamps. Here's what the underside looks like - I built in corner clamps for steel conduit legs if I want to set up without the rolling base.
When I'm not using the layout, the sections stack on a dolly in my workshop. So far it's worked out pretty well, I recently moved the whole layout in an evening. Good luck with your project.
You could look at standards used by clubs for modular layouts for ideas, too. Their layouts are designed with portability in mind, after all.
For example, the National Capital Trackers, here.
I have actually though of making 2' x 8' sections for my layout that I plan to build which when done will be 8' X 16' one thing that has me thinking this way I can set up 2' X 16' and work that till it is how I want it then work the next 2' X 16' ect ect so it will be a work in process for a while.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
I've put together three 3' by 6' tables. They assemble into a 6' by 9' table that we use for kids programs at the Katy Depot museum from time to time.
They are 2x4 frames around the outside, two 1x3 braces, and 1/2" thick plywood top. I offset the plywood a bit so the tables would stay even when I clamp them together.
Hindsight being 20/20, 3' by 6' is still a bit too large for easy portability. I too have an old house with the trains in the attic. It is a chore to get these things up there. 2' by 4' might have been a better size.
Good luck.
Jason, The options are endless and in the end it will be your choice. I also wanted to be able to move or take down my layout. What I did was used screws and bolts for the framework and screwed the top to it. Are you wanting to be able to leave the scenery on it when you move it? If so then that may take some more doing,
Best of luck and have fun.
Joined 1-21-2011 TCA 13-68614
Kev, From The North Bluff Above Marseilles IL.
Hi, I have cleared a space in my unfinished walk up attic that I can set up a semi perminate layout in and I have about 4'x8' or maybee 4'x10' room at the most. The difficult part is what to do about portable bench work. If I can take it apart & move it if needed. it would be great.
My house is from 1879 and the stair ways are steep & narrow with door ways at each end, I dont want to build perminate bench work incase I ever decide to move or need the space later. and a 4'x8' sheet will not go through the hallways and up the stairs.
I was thinking of something built out of 2'x4' or 3'x4' sections I can bolt together and carry easily or put in a car trunk if needed, I dont plan on any mountains or 3D scenery, just flat table tops with painted roads post war display layout style. I'm running 1947-1957 Lionel trains & early plasticville buildings for scenery. everything can go back in a box to leave the table tops flat & smooth if needed
I plan on taking the trains out of the attic at Christmas time to use them under the tree and in the summer time to avoid the heat.
Does anyone have a good system to align and secure modular layouts? I figured I'd use 1/4" or 3/8" plywood tops with 1"x3" frames to keep down the weight and maybee use door hinges with removable pins as connectors, Am I on the right track?
I rember seeing an old 1940s lionel magazine article about an apartment layout that was portable, anyone have a copy of it to see how it was done?
Thanks! - Jason
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