I've been using MTH RealTrax for my under-the-tree layout for 3 years. This year has been a major headache. Evidently RealTrax can only take so much connecting and disconnecting before it starts to malfunction. I now have a section of curved track that is going to need a piece of wire soldered to the connecting rails to complete the circuit. I spent HOURS last night trying to bend and stretch the copper contacts to work, but no success. I LIKE that the center rail is blackened so that it gives the "2-rail" look. And I LIKE the lighted lockon that gives an instant verification of track power. But 3 years of use and then malfunctions is unacceptable. And my fingers are about numb from trying to connect these track sections.I have ordered Lionel Fastrack for my under-tree circle and will be using Fastrack for the big layout. I can see why MTH no longer is pushing RealTrax and is now emphasizing ScaleTrax
Virginian Railroad
Sounds like you have mostly 2nd generation track-- The first gen track has apparently held up well, according to most of the reports i've read on the OGR forum. Third gen track(the hollow rail type) is supposed to be built better--the copper tabs are thicker and use 2 spot welds instead of one(2nd gen). I also seem to remember reading that the molds were redone for the 3rd gen stuff, so the fit & finish is much better.
As for assembly & disassembly, the reccomended practice is not to shove them together on the flat-- they fit easier if one piece is at an angle, then rotated to flat.
HTH--
A Day Without Trains is a Day Wasted
I have used Fastrack now for 4 years under my tree and so far it is holding up well, no discernable degradation in security. The switch from tubular to Fastrack saves me 2-3 hours and increases train performance dramatically. I have not had a single derailment on my holiday layout since Fastrack and the electrical contacts are rock solid. Some don't like the sound but I love the clickty clack of metal on metal.
A little history, for those of you that might have missed the boat and dock...................
Buckeye Riveter Chief....I hope you are paying attention because you need to see how I solved my problem with the MTH O-72 Realtrax Switches. Oh!! What's that? You say the Chief is off goofing off fishing at the lake? Anyway, here goes. A little history about the MTH Realtrax Switch Problem: The Chief and I installed a bunch of MTH Realtrax Switches on our layout. I have 12 MTH Switches and the Chief has a few more. When I started my layout, Fastrack by Lionel had not been born. About half way through the building of the second phase of my layout, I started to notice that the newer track did not fit as well as the old. The Chief was seeing the same thing as he connected his Realtrax. (Incidentally, someone in the last month provided a history about the manufacturing changes of Realtrax....THANK YOU!) The Chief and I really became upset when the new O-72 Realtrax Switches started not to work. The Chief had switches that the switch motors were DOA. I opened a box of a supposedly new switch and discovered it had been reconditioned. Then I started seeing derailments at two brand new O-72 switches. Two out of my six O-72s would derail certain types of locomotives including BEEPS, Post-war, and Williams. After watching a small new Lionel Steamer ride over the frog and derail, I said something has to be wrong with that switch and not the engine. Here is the MTH O-72 switch that was derailing random locomotives. Look at the gap between the back of the wheel flange and the guard rail. The car is an MTH tank car. Needless to say when I measured the gap between the guard rail and the main rail on an O-72 switch, it was the same as on the O-42 switches by MTH. Logic says that on a straight section of track, the gap between the guard rail and the main rail would be the smallest. On sharper turns, the gap should be the widest. To check to see if the gap width between the guard rail and the main rail was too large and causing the opposite wheel to ride over the frog, I put three (3) layers of 7 mil electrical tape on the guard rail, as shown below: The tape effectively, reduced the space between the guard rail and the main rail. After several hours of running various types of locomotives and rolling stock through the switch at different speeds, not one derailment occurred. I sent the locmotives through the switch in reverse, too, with loads and without loads. BINGO!! After a trip to the LHS, where I purchased .020 x .188 styrene strips, I added one to the face of the guard rail as shown below. After several hours of hard running, not one locomotive on the Baltimore, Ohio and Wabash Railroad has had any problems negotiating this switch. Now you know, Chiefie!!!
Chief....I hope you are paying attention because you need to see how I solved my problem with the MTH O-72 Realtrax Switches. Oh!! What's that? You say the Chief is off goofing off fishing at the lake? Anyway, here goes.
A little history about the MTH Realtrax Switch Problem:
The Chief and I installed a bunch of MTH Realtrax Switches on our layout. I have 12 MTH Switches and the Chief has a few more. When I started my layout, Fastrack by Lionel had not been born. About half way through the building of the second phase of my layout, I started to notice that the newer track did not fit as well as the old. The Chief was seeing the same thing as he connected his Realtrax. (Incidentally, someone in the last month provided a history about the manufacturing changes of Realtrax....THANK YOU!)
The Chief and I really became upset when the new O-72 Realtrax Switches started not to work. The Chief had switches that the switch motors were DOA. I opened a box of a supposedly new switch and discovered it had been reconditioned. Then I started seeing derailments at two brand new O-72 switches. Two out of my six O-72s would derail certain types of locomotives including BEEPS, Post-war, and Williams. After watching a small new Lionel Steamer ride over the frog and derail, I said something has to be wrong with that switch and not the engine.
Here is the MTH O-72 switch that was derailing random locomotives. Look at the gap between the back of the wheel flange and the guard rail. The car is an MTH tank car.
Needless to say when I measured the gap between the guard rail and the main rail on an O-72 switch, it was the same as on the O-42 switches by MTH. Logic says that on a straight section of track, the gap between the guard rail and the main rail would be the smallest. On sharper turns, the gap should be the widest.
To check to see if the gap width between the guard rail and the main rail was too large and causing the opposite wheel to ride over the frog, I put three (3) layers of 7 mil electrical tape on the guard rail, as shown below:
Celebrating 18 years on the CTT Forum.
Buckeye Riveter......... OTTS Charter Member, a Roseyville Raider and a member of the CTT Forum since 2004..
Jelloway Creek, OH - ELV 1,100 - Home of the Baltimore, Ohio & Wabash RR
TCA 09-64284
Actually, I was a fan of the MTH RealTrax and was constantly feuding with ChiefEagles about how great it was. I now stand corrected. And my RealTrax is the newest version with the newer contstruction and assembly welds. I ordered Lionel FasTrack off E-Bay and look forward to replacing the MTH stuff. Only downside I see to the Lionel track is the way the wires connect to it and the visible center rail(I can live with that). One of Chief's criticisms of RealTrax was it says on the packaging that it can be assembled by someone very young. That is pure baloney. Thanks for that post Buckeye. I remember you guys going round and round with the switch problems.It's 100% Fastrack for me from now on.Dep
Friend of mine spent a fortune on that crap. He was lucky to sell it for 10 cents on the dollar. Fast track and it's switchs are the way to go.
I had some that I setup under my tree a year ago. Or was it 2? Anyways now that the Polar Express is under there, I'm using the Fastrack that came with it.
I guess the good about Realtrax for me is that I'm selling it and that I don't have that much. The bad is that I haven't sold it yet.
Here are some pics of the Christmas Tree sub-division of My Christmas Tree, Carpet & Western (CTC&W), from the last couple of years, even with 4 lock-ons per loop, I would still get some slow spots.
I don't have any pics of this year's Christmas Tree sub-division, but the platform didn't fit this year, and I wanted some 072 curves, which that platform didn't have. This year, I have 3 loops on the carpet, using Realtrax an 054, with 5.5" straights in the sides and ends, an 072 and an 072 with 10" straights in the sides and ends. Surprisingly, I got away with ONE lock-on for each loop, with no noticeabl slow spots. But I spent HOURS putting those 3 loops togther, connect 2 pieces, turn over, check the contacts, disassemble and adjust when/where needed, install track clipto hold the sections together. Connct another piece of track turn over.......
I prefer the looks of the Realtrax to the Fastrack, but having used some Fastrack, that I got with some sets, I gave some trains to some Family members for their Trees, and used the Fastrack for them, I have seen the light. Realtrax may LOOK better, but Fastrack WORKS much better. Unfortunately, I have PILES of Realtrax(a Very fitting adjective, BTW), so for now, my temporary layouts will be with Realtrax, I just understand and accept what I have to do whn using Realtrax. If I could say Abracadabra, and magically make it all bcome Fastracks, I would in less than a Heartbeat, well back to reality.
When I get the Space, Money and Time for a permanent layout, it will be with Atlas O 21st Century track.
Doug
May your flanges always stay BETWEEN the rails
Deputy Actually, I was a fan of the MTH RealTrax and was constantly feuding with ChiefEagles about how great it was. I now stand corrected. And my RealTrax is the newest version with the newer contstruction and assembly welds. I ordered Lionel FasTrack off E-Bay and look forward to replacing the MTH stuff. Only downside I see to the Lionel track is the way the wires connect to it and the visible center rail(I can live with that). One of Chief's criticisms of RealTrax was it says on the packaging that it can be assembled by someone very young. That is pure baloney. Thanks for that post Buckeye. I remember you guys going round and round with the switch problems.It's 100% Fastrack for me from now on.Dep
Have you seen the new RealTrax with the hollow rail? Fastrack, Gargraves, Ross, Atlas, Used Lionel and Williams all are a better choices.
I believe you can buy electrical connectors in bulk such that you can make your own track connecting wires for Fastrack.
Haven't seen the new RealTrax. I guess mine is 2nd gen. But I am truly done with RealTrax. I've already bought a goodly amount of wire and bulk connectors to make my own connection wire.
Dep, no problem with me. I got started with some good and then all the new needed to do the layout was the "tuff" stuff. All works out in the end.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
I got lucky in that when I got back into the hobby, I had bought a Lionel "Hobo Set". It came with Fastrack and I liked the look and sturdy nature of it. When it came to actually making a layout, I decided that the incorporated roadbed was a plus as was the solid connection that the track made to each other. Having cut my hands on old Lionel tubular track as well as having track separations on temporary floor layouts made Fastrack that much more appealing.
Since building the trackwork of my layout as well as looking into the Fastrack group, I have found that it is a very good, sound system. Drawbacks are few, but noteworthy. Sound is a bit loud, but with using foam base and sill seal, I have found it very tolerable. The operating track controllers sometimes have a tendency to stick, causing continuous activation of the track...to the point of melting and failure of the track. You need to watch it and make sure it is not happening. Also, some of the LEDs have failed on my lighted bumper tracks and a switch. Beyond that, no problems and the switches take special note: They are great! I have had not encountered any operating problems with them!
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Doofus Friend of mine spent a fortune on that crap. He was lucky to sell it for 10 cents on the dollar. Fast track and it's switchs are the way to go.
Must of gone to a pawn shop as it sells every day on ebay a lot better than that. Myself I prefer gargraves not fawn of the plastic road bed but I did like the look of realtrax over fastrack but never really used either so can't say. I do have some fastrack but use it on my shelves to display my trains it came in sets I got.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid John Wayne
http://rtssite.shutterfly.com/
I’m glad this came up because I was going to order MTH RealTrax for next year. I’ve been using Fastrack since it 1st came out and never had any problems except for rust.
This year I changed my layout around a little and replaced one of my Fastracks with tubular track only because I needed a 42”dia circle and it was not available in Fastrack. The tubular is kind of a pain to keep aligned and fastened down. That’s when I discovered MTH RealTrax which had 42” track and it doesn’t RUST. I really hate the rust and I don’t think it’s going to last much longer because of it.
Next year I think I going with Atlas if I can figure out how to go with a larger diameter layout.
Rust with Fast Track? I have had Fast track for years and never have had a rust problem. If I may ask where do you live that your track rusts.
Atlas is great but very expensive.
RealTrax MAY be okay if you put it together ONCE and leave it. But Chief's problems with switches were what made me start to worry. And now this connection problem has been the final straw. I think with RealTrax it's just a "matter of time" before you start seeing problems, especially if you take it apart and put it together often (as in once a year). If you live in a very moist climate or the train is located in a damp room, Gargraves makes stainless steel track that would probably solve those rust problems. The downside to RealTrax not rusting is it's also NOT magnetic. So magnetraction doesn't work on it.
Myself I prefer gargraves not fawn of the plastic road bed
Yep, for layouts Gargraves track and Ross switches are the best combination. Keeps the noise level down also. I have heard layouts with the plastic ballast, very noisy.
Bill T.
Doofus Rust with Fast Track? I have had Fast track for years and never have had a rust problem. If I may ask where do you live that your track rusts. Atlas is great but very expensive.
I live in the high desert in Southern CA. I started leaving it fastened to a sheet of plywood a few years ago and keep it stored in a shed during the summer.
Seayakbill Myself I prefer gargraves not fawn of the plastic road bed Yep, for layouts Gargraves track and Ross switches are the best combination. Keeps the noise level down also. I have heard layouts with the plastic ballast, very noisy.
I bought Gargraves flex track a few years ago and I could not bend it without kinking so I gave up on it. Other than that the only problem I have are the massive wood ties. They just don’t look right to me, but it still is a Vast improvement over tubular track.
Sleeper, RealTrax has gone to hollow rail. Not like the original. I got it down and once down, it is OK. Seems the nickel silver down not need cleaning like the other types of metal. The newer RealTrax switches are crap or if you modify them like Buckeye and I have done, better. At one time I was having to fix one a week. Not fun when on a big layout. Always little things. Tried to get MTH to do something and mainly, "We don't know what you are talking about." Had a lot of trouble with them at LHS too. Had to repair them. Now don't get me wrong, FasTrac switches are not problem free. I found out why the RealTrax sections would not go together. The plastic flat piece that goes under the metal track on the outside rails was too thick to fit under that rail. "Mill" it down a tiny bit and it goes together easy.
ChiefEagles Sleeper, RealTrax has gone to hollow rail. Not like the original.
Sleeper, RealTrax has gone to hollow rail. Not like the original.
I bought a MTH 30” Realtrax Arch Bridge awhile back and I’m still waiting on it. It’s supposed to be here this Tuesday.
Anyway I went to MTH site to see what was available I noticed a disclaimer saying it’s not recommended for outdoors because ABS warps in heat and cracks in cold. I mentioned this before but was a concern because I’d be using it for my Christmas layout and will be stored in a shed 11 months a year. The desert temps go from 30˚F to over 110˚F. I measured the temp last summer inside the shed at 120.
But Sleeper, its dry heat. Been there. Hot is hot. If screwed down good to plywood, probably would survive. Now plastic birdge might look a little "distored" but might not. Store the bridge inside.
SleeperN06I bought a MTH 30” Realtrax Arch Bridge awhile back and I’m still waiting on it. It’s supposed to be here this Tuesday.
I hope you enjoy the bridge...............but, as a civil engineer, I have yet to see a prototype railroad bridge in the U.S.A. that resembles the MTH arch bridge.
If someone sees one, I would enjoy a photo.
Buckeye Riveter SleeperN06I bought a MTH 30” Realtrax Arch Bridge awhile back and I’m still waiting on it. It’s supposed to be here this Tuesday. I hope you enjoy the bridge...............but, as a civil engineer, I have yet to see a prototype railroad bridge in the U.S.A. that resembles the MTH arch bridge. If someone sees one, I would enjoy a photo.
I grew up in Pittsburgh, PA where there are lots of bridges. In fact it’s hard to go anywhere without crossing or at least seeing one, so I agree with you about the or a lot of model train bridges not being prototype. This is going to be for a Christmas Layout based on fantasy, so I don’t really care much about prototype, although it would be nice.
DOOFUS,
I'm with you on this CRAP. I just got some in a starter set and put it together for under the tree. What a tough thing to put together, twisting and pushing, wow! Fast track is much easier. The only thing I liked about it was that the starter set had a remote controller that works well. But for next year I'll rig the remote to fast track.
laz57
SleeperN06Doofus Rust with Fast Track? I have had Fast track for years and never have had a rust problem. If I may ask where do you live that your track rusts. Atlas is great but very expensive. I live in the high desert in Southern CA. I started leaving it fastened to a sheet of plywood a few years ago and keep it stored in a shed during the summer.
Where in the high desert? We lived in Palmdale for 8 years.
Doofus Where in the high desert? We lived in Palmdale for 8 years.
Well you definitely know the area, but if I’m seeing rust here than I can only imagine what it would be like in Georgia. Now don’t get me wrong, I love Fastack. I just wish it were nickel silver like everybody else.
I used to pack it up very carefully in its original packaging every year, but as my layout got bigger and bigger, the pieces didn’t fit in the box and I couldn’t remember how it all fit together at Christmas time, so I decided I would just screw it down and leave it intact. I’ve been using very fine sand paper with “Goo Gone” to clean the track. It just takes a lot of time. My biggest problem is that there isn’t a curve between O-36 and O-48. If you use a 4x8 sheet of plywood, you are stuck with O-36. I would love to have a double main line and run two trains side by side, but that another story.
Here is a close up of my track. Now keep in mind that I have thoroughly cleaned off all the rust and dirt. Unfortunately I don’t have a photo before I cleaned it. The curved track on the left is about 3 or 4 years old and the straight track on the right is new. I had a few pieces this month because the original pieces would not clean up so I tossed them.
Also my 2 year old (almost 3) grandson runs trains from the time he gets up in the morning to the time he goes to bed. About 9 hours total with nap and dinner time. So the track gets a lot of wear.
I recently pulled 10 switches off of my layout and started over with a switchless design. This was right after buying 2 more switches and a AIU to control them at York. Oh well. I don't mind the track at all (It's great for carpet running), but the switches from the last 4 years are garbage.
I struggled the very first time I tried putting the realtrax together. There are no instructions explaining really how easy it is to do, once you figure it out. Just tilt one piece up about 35 degrees, leading with the 2 little tabs tucking them under the rails of the opposite track. Then lower it to flat and you are done.
I have had most of my track apart over the past 4 years while I work out different track designs. Minimal breakage I have more nickel spring clips break than anything. I have yet to put it together and the whole loop work first time, mainly because these clips on the botton don't always align correctly. Best advice is to put a couple of pieces together, flip it over and check all of the springs on the bottom, then put the big pieces together, etc. Or use a lighted caboose and work it down the line as you snap track down. That gets most of the problems. Sometimes there is so much paint on the center rail that it doesn't conduct well. I pre-buff most of the paint off of the center rail as soon as I bring it home from the store. Once down, it seems pretty quiet to me, but that depends on your sub-bed. The rail volume is less than tubular, but the plastic might amplify/transfer the round to the plywood more. It's not nearly as loud as the fasttrack roar if you ask me.
By the way, know anyone who wants 10 switches and a bunch of Realtrax? There are a lot of us with surplus.
Wes
Wes Whitmore I struggled the very first time I tried putting the realtrax together. There are no instructions explaining really how easy it is to do, once you figure it out. Just tilt one piece up about 35 degrees, leading with the 2 little tabs tucking them under the rails of the opposite track. Then lower it to flat and you are done. By the way, know anyone who wants 10 switches and a bunch of Realtrax? There are a lot of us with surplus. Wes
So what's the trick when you are making a 42 inch circle and the last connection has to be made. You sure can't do that "tilt" trick then I'm with you in having Realtrax to dispose of. I have 3 foot lengths, 10 inch lengths, and 042 and 031 curves to get rid of.
Closing an O-42 loop...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0NrZ3vJw9w
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