uncoupoling track problem

[Chris F]

To test operation of the magnet, apply voltage to the track. Hold the tip of a screwdriver over the magnet, then press the button. If the magnet is working, the tip will be pulled to it. A higher voltage should result in a stronger pull. DO NOT let any part of the screwdriver touch either of the outside rails.

There are two wires from the magnet coil. One you already know about - it's the hot wire connected to the terminal screw on the bottom of the track. The other (common) wire is soldered to one of the outside rails. It's possible that this wire is loose. If you are familiar with soldering, you know what to do. If not, your might return the track for another.

[Roger Bielen]

Jerry, sometimes the track is working but a car can have a coupler that doesn't, don't rule out that possibility if the wiring is correct and you can hear the magnit hum.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Jerry, it sounds like you have it wired correctly, the way it was intended. It may simply be that when the train is in neutral, sometimes you don't have the voltage turned up high enough. That would explain why it works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't.

I like Brian's idea for wiring it so that it could be run off a fixed voltage, but that may be a bit more of an advanced project than you are prepared for, given your age and the equipment you have. It sounds like the transformer that you have, doesn't give you that option anyway.

Hang in there and have fun![:D]

[Anonymous]

it has only one wire conection, which goes from the terminal on the bottom of the magnet, to the one of two terminals on the button controller, and you string another wire from the other terminal to the first spot on the lockon.(my cheap pennsy flyer 40wt only has two variable current wires coming out of it, leading to the lockon)so i thought it would work if i just put the loco in neutral since the tracks still have juice, it works some times but others no.[V]

[Big_Boy_4005]

Jerry, the section should be connected to the rest of the track in the normal way, with steel pins. The difference is in activating the magnet, and /or control rails, that requires a connection through a push button type switch. Did the track come with a switch and instructions?

It may be possible to wire this unit using track power or a seperate fixed voltage from your transformer. (THIS IS WHAT BRIAN IS TALKING ABOUT) Just remember that there should not be power on the magnet at all times, you can burn it out that way.

You might be able to figure this out yourself by looking at the bottom of the uncoupler track. Are there two terminals that need connection, or just one? What are the terminals connected to? Is one on the ground rail? Is a wire from the magnet connected to the center rail?

I have the catalog here in front of me, but I can't tell where the terminals are from the picture.

[brianel027]

JLT, on my layout my uncoupling tracks are powered by an auxiliary transformer. If you are using 027 track, first remove the metal plate cover on the bottom side of the track. Unsolder the wire running to the outside rail. You also need to remove the screw and the binding post around it - you may have to remove that too. Your auxiliary power will go into these two wires. This way you can be running the train super slow at low voltage and still get reliable operation from your uncoupler track.

[Jim Duda]

JLT - why do you think you are wiring it wrong? I have to give mine at least 16 volts to activate magnetic couplers...

Jim Duda

[Anonymous]

i have a problem. i think i may be wiring my unccoupoling track wrong.[xx(] i ussully put it on the main line, with the ground wire-rail on the ground rail, i have no fibre pins on it at all and just put it on the regular oval. am i wiring it wrong, what is the trick? [%-)] fyi -it is a kline tubular one