Lionel 022 connection/isolation

[Anonymous]

Layout is outer loop with mod. fig 8 inside. Where do I place insulating pins? Is the X crossing a problem?

[lionelsoni]

Put the pins only in the "non-derailing contact rails", 2 per switch. See
http://pictures.olsenstoy.com/cd/swt/stc022c.pdf for a diagram. The crossing is not a problem.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Please note, that the diagram shown is of the early version of the 022. The later version has the non-derailing contact on the inside rail of the curved leg. Determining which version you have is easy. If the long curved outside rail has a small gap in it, then it is the early version.

[Jim Duda]

BB 4005 Would you mind sharing with us your opinions of the "old" O22 (split curved outer rail / screw in bulbs) with the "later" versions? I have a choice of getting rebuilt ones of either type so I'd like to choose wisely...

Jim Duda

[Big_Boy_4005]

If the price is the same, Jim, go for the newer ones. Lionel redesigned them for a reason, "New and Improved". Bayonet style bulbs don't loosen with vibration, but the bigger issue is the rail itself. I believe that the older ones have the cadmium coated rail.

You can tell the cadmium coated stuff, because it has a blue-gray appearence. It was intended to be a rust preventitive, but today we consider heavy metals (cadmium, lead, etc) to be health hazards. It isn't really that big a deal, I don't know anyone who licks their track, but if you have some and you have been handeling it a lot, its a good idea to wash your hands well afterward.

If you are using them on a layout, all that really maters is that they work properly. Since all of the parts are available, it should be no problem to keep them working for years to come. By the way, the motors are all interchangable, so its nice to have a spare or two, in case of "emergency". The only thing is that you will need to pull the whole switch up to make any changes.

One last thought, I'm not sure how much experience you have, but did you know that the motors can be turned around. By removing 2 screws you can mount the motor on the inside (the Curved side) or the outside (the straight side) if space is a factor.

[Jim Duda]

BB - Thanks for the tip about mounting the motors on the inside OR outside...

jd

[Big_Boy_4005]

Glad to help! Makes me feel like I haven't wasted the last 30 years. [;)]

Elliot

[Jim Duda]

Elliott - here's one: How do you tighten up the lantern to that rotating ring on an early type O22? Do you "spread" the 4 tabs on the lantern or do you build up the inside of the ring with some dabs of epoxy? Some times they tend to "fly off"...I'm using 14V constant voltage to them.

jd

[Big_Boy_4005]

Yah , Jim, they do fly off sometimes. That's a sign of a good strong coil. A small amount of something sticky would work, but maybe a little tape (masking or scotch) carefully wrapped around the tabs, would provide enough friction to snug up the fit, and hold them on. Start with one layer of tape, you will probably need to cut the tape between the tabs to allow the "nipples" on the ring to slide in easily. Be careful with the tabs, over the years I've seen more lanterns with one or more missing tabs, than complete ones. Sometimes the simplest solutions work best. Good luck.

Elliot