Need Help Disassembling A K-Line Steamer

[Jumijo]

 

I recently bought a K-Line starter set Pacific in festive Happy Holiday livery and colors. I wish to disassemble the loco and repaint it black, but can't figure out how to remove the side rods from the shell (see photo below of a similar Pacific). They seem to be riveted on. Would someone please explain how to go about removing the shell from this locomotive so I can strip and repaint it?  It would be most appreciated! Thank you!

Jim

 

[BDT in Minnesota]

Hi Jim....I just took a look at one of my simular K Line Pacifics.... I see three choices requarding those rivets.....First, you could leave the valve linkage hang on the shell and mask it off: but i would not recommend this methiod as far as getting the best end results on the paint job.....next thought would be to get some new rivets; but the the rivets that are in there now don't impress me in the first place.....My self, I would remove the rivets, and replace then with a small machine screw, a couple washers, and a nut and jamb nut....Blackened machine screws are common hardware that are used on the large remote controlled cars that can be found in the hobby shops... Should be fairly easy to locate...BDT

[Jumijo]

Thanks, BDT. Here's what I'm hoping to do. Repaint and add B&M livery like in the photo below. The loco in this photo is semi-streamlined, but lost it's sheathing during WWII.

 Also I can see the front shell attachment screw, but not the rear. Perhaps the same screw that holds the rear truck also goes through to the shell?

Jim 

[BDT in Minnesota]

Thanks, BDT. Here's what I'm hoping to do. Repaint and add B&M livery like in the photo below. The loco in this photo is semi-streamlined, but lost it's sheathing during WWII.

 Also I can see the front shell attachment screw, but not the rear. Perhaps the same screw that holds the rear truck also goes through to the shell?

Jim         I just removed the rear truck pivot screw. and it only holds the truck...the shell looks like it is notched in the cab area to hold the frame in place.....I was looking at the front of the boiler and headlite area. It may be a good idea to remove the boiler front and remove the headlite bulb first, rather than risk breaking it...

Aside from that issue, did you notice the nice, simple, simulated cab interior in these locomotives??? only one small screw to remove that metal plate... I am going to remove that plate and run it  through my scanner and make a copy of that panel on black paper...If slightly enlarged,  the copy could be glued onto a metal plate that has been custom fit for other locomotives.....that interior, with a little lighting added; along with some crew figures, would really dress up some of the Lionel locomotive cabs...And so simple...  

BDT

[Dave Connolly]

 I don't have this particular engine. Look around the steam chest area and also behind the rear drivers for screws. The screws on some steamers are not visible. They are often recessed about 1/2 inch inside the chassis. If you have the instructions they usually point them out.

  As far as removing the side rods. Often times what looks to be part of the boiler isn't. Generally they hang off a bracket that bolts to the chassis even though it may appear to be part of the boiler.

[BDT in Minnesota]

Jim....I was curious about a few other details on those Pacifics, so I grabbed one and disassembled it...It went like this.... remove two screws that hold boiler front, pull it out and then remove headlite bulb...

remove the screw inside the cab, and remove the cute little metal panel that looks like a cab interior.

remove rear truck pivot screw  and rear truck..watch where the spring and washer are located first.

remove those two small screws that hold the wires under the cab floor..

remove screws that retain valve eccentrics to each center driver, and catch the round spacer when the screws are removed.take note of the linkage timing before you remove these screws..

there is only one screw that holds the framework and motor assembly into the shell....remove this screw and pivot the motor out of the shell   (watch out for the wires that will still be attached to the smoke unit) 

leave all the wires hooked up, but the wire junction block that sits near the rear of the boiler shell will need a small nudge, as the foam cushion that secures it has a double stick surface on it..

Looking at the smoke unit, you will see four small phillips screws.. remove these screws, and remove the electrical panel for the smoke unit.. there will be an Oring seal remaining in the housing..remove the seal, but leave  the remaining rectangular housing in the boiler shell....this couldbreak if you try to pry it out, so I would leave it for that reason...

now you can remove the rivest for the valve gear, if desired.

 

now you should be able to get at the handrail mounts, plus drive out the whistle and bell from the inside of the shell..

the small stack will pull straight out..,At this point, you should be ready to refinish the shell.... 

Well I have always wanted to to a side by side comparison of the KLine pacific, and it's grandpa, the MarX333.........So

, I grabbed a pair of MarX 333s, and anouther Kline Pacific to make some comparisons...One of the 333s ended up disassembled....here are a few things that I found:

rear trucks interchange,

front trucks interchangable,,wheels slightly smaller on the Marx

valve lingage will interchange.

the cab on the Kline is wider than the Marx 333

the Marx has front cab windows, and the KLine don't

drivers are different size- Marx are smaller

shells same length

main rods and side rods will interchange.

same handrails, boilerfront, bell and whistle...

the number in the boilerfronts  can be changed, if desired

boilerfronts interchange

 cowcatcher on MarX is not open slotted like the KLine.

Either motor could be adapted to fit the other shell with little alteration..

This has been an interesting nite,, hope this helps....BDT

[Jumijo]

BDT,

Thanks so much for all your help! You could not have made it clearer, and I truly appreciate you going to all that effort for me. Boy, for a simple little loco, it sure is involved trying to take it apart. The Marx I have breaks down in about 45 seconds!

Thank you once again. I really do appreciate your time and effort! 

Jim