berkshire smoke (or lack of) problem

[vbkostur]

just got a lionel c&o berkshire from e-bay. it is from the 2005 catalog.

great engine, but it will not smoke. i put fluid in, ran it, ran it longer, ran it hard, put more fluid in, still nothing. not even a tiny puff. before you ask, yes it does have on/off switch, and it is on. any advice?

also, if it is broken, what is invovled in fixing it and maybe even upgrading it from lionel standard "average" smoke. thanks!

mike

 

[dougdagrump]

Mike,

Can you be a little more specific as to the Lionel part #, conventional or TMCC ?

I was unable to find a C&O Berk in the 2005 catalogs, but then again that is why in Ca they put the reflectors between the traffic lanes I drive by braille.

In either case above if it is used the previous owner could have fried the wick.

[billbarman]

I have that same problem with my lionel lionmaster hudson! the previous owner probably used it with the smoke unit on without smoke in it which messed it up, happened to my hudson (not the 700e the lionmaster.)

[vbkostur]

sorry, 2003 catalog vol I and II. lionel #6-28627.

if the wick is burned out, what are my options?

 thanks.

[dougdagrump]

It should be fairly simple to take apart, I'm not experienced with this model so my suggesstion would be to use a digital camera, step by step dis-assembly photos,to use as a reference for re-assembly. You will need to check the puffing mechanism for operation as well as the wicking. Also check the wiring for bad solder joints broken wires etc. If it ends up being a bad element & wicking they can be purchased directly on-line from Lionel or various parts dealers on the net. You should be able to get a parts breakdown/diagrahm on the Lionel site, click on customer service and use the model # to search.

[USNRol]

I suspect you have an open heater element.  If you dropped smoke fluid on the element (wick or no wick) you should see something when you apply healthy voltage.  As discussed in other threads and verified by myself on my PE Berk, pink fiberglass insulation works marvelous as wicking material.  Load up the smoke chamber with it, but make sure the vent holes will still pass air.  Hopefully you'll find a broken lead/wire going to the heater which might be repaired with a solder joint.  If it's internally open you'll probably need a new one.

Good luck,
Roland

[Kooljock1]

billbarman,

I have the LionMaster J3a, and the smoke unit on it, and all other previous LionMaster offerings was miswired.

To get the complete smoke experience, remove the shell. There are only four screws to do this: two at the front and two at the front end of the firebox. The other screws are mountings for the smoke and Program/Run switch. Don't touch those.

Once inside, locate the motor lead for the smoke unit, and follow it back to the board. Unplug the white connector from the board. Using a needle or very small screwdriver, remove the leads from the white plug, and then put them back in the plug in the opposite order. This will spin the smoke unit fan in the correct direction.

Now remove the four screws on the top of the smoke unit. Pull out the burnt/scorched wadding and toss it. While you're in there, carefully cut off the burnt/scorched fibre-glass sleeve on the element. Go to your attic, and pull some pink or white/yellow fibre-glass "wool" batting from your insulation. Carefully pack this into your unit, leaving just enough room for airflow from the intake, across the resistor and out of the stack. While the cover is still off, add about one full dropper of JT's Mega-Steam to the wadding.

Reassemble.

Turn on your exhaust fan.

Stand back.

Jon

[Anonymous]

billbarman,

I have the LionMaster J3a, and the smoke unit on it, and all other previous LionMaster offerings was miswired.

To get the complete smoke experience, remove the shell. There are only four screws to do this: two at the front and two at the front end of the firebox. The other screws are mountings for the smoke and Program/Run switch. Don't touch those.

Once inside, locate the motor lead for the smoke unit, and follow it back to the board. Unplug the white connector from the board. Using a needle or very small screwdriver, remove the leads from the white plug, and then put them back in the plug in the opposite order. This will spin the smoke unit fan in the correct direction.

Now remove the four screws on the top of the smoke unit. Pull out the burnt/scorched wadding and toss it. While you're in there, carefully cut off the burnt/scorched fibre-glass sleeve on the element. Go to your attic, and pull some pink or white/yellow fibre-glass "wool" batting from your insulation. Carefully pack this into your unit, leaving just enough room for airflow from the intake, across the resistor and out of the stack. While the cover is still off, add about one full dropper of JT's Mega-Steam to the wadding.

Reassemble.

Turn on your exhaust fan.

Stand back.

Jon

 

wow those were very good detail intsructions....hope you get your egine smokin again.....

[ChiefEagles]

billbarman,

I have the LionMaster J3a, and the smoke unit on it, and all other previous LionMaster offerings was miswired.

To get the complete smoke experience, remove the shell. There are only four screws to do this: two at the front and two at the front end of the firebox. The other screws are mountings for the smoke and Program/Run switch. Don't touch those.

Once inside, locate the motor lead for the smoke unit, and follow it back to the board. Unplug the white connector from the board. Using a needle or very small screwdriver, remove the leads from the white plug, and then put them back in the plug in the opposite order. This will spin the smoke unit fan in the correct direction.

Now remove the four screws on the top of the smoke unit. Pull out the burnt/scorched wadding and toss it. While you're in there, carefully cut off the burnt/scorched fibre-glass sleeve on the element. Go to your attic, and pull some pink or white/yellow fibre-glass "wool" batting from your insulation. Carefully pack this into your unit, leaving just enough room for airflow from the intake, across the resistor and out of the stack. While the cover is still off, add about one full dropper of JT's Mega-Steam to the wadding.

Reassemble.

Turn on your exhaust fan.

Stand back.

Jon

 

wow those were very good detail intsructions....hope you get your egine smokin again.....

They are outstanding directions.  Only difference is, I usually remove the top and then fire it up and see which way the fan is turning.  Vanes are "Twisted" like a rotarytiller tine.  They should turn backwards and not turn as if "digging".  Usually clockwise.  PINK from the attic is the best "stuff" you can use.  If it chars, you can replace it easily. 

[vbkostur]

ok i finally got to try this(don't take my trains apart much so this was an ordeal for me!). the advice was great.

i am getting smoke now but still need to have the power turned up pretty high. also, i beleive lionel put the "lame cheap version of a fan" in this engine. it is mechanically controlled as the wheels spin. no wires! it resembles two plastic canisters underneath the smoke unit, one inside the other. when trigger, the bottom canister pushes up forcing the air out of the other canister. unfortunately, after pushing up, my bottom canister does not fall back down therefore i essentially have no "fan". any more advice? 

also is it "safe" to now that i took the sleave off the unit or might it get too hot?

 thanks again!