Ideas to repair broken top plate and coupler on switcher

[kpolak]

Does anyone have any ideas on how to repair a broken top plate that attaches a coupler to my 8111 switcher?

Is epoxy and sheet metal better than say rivets with sheet metal?  Both?

Thank you,

Kurt

 

[lionelsoni]

I would solder a steel splint over the top of the break.

[kpolak]

I guess I should tell you that these are plastic trucks. 

Solder??  With a propane torch?  Can I get the metal(s) hot enough with an iron?

Thank you,

Kurt

[lionelsoni]

Depends on the iron.

Which parts are plastic?  The coupler shank?  The sideframes?  The broken part looks like steel.

[kpolak]

Just the side frames.  Should this come apart?

Kurt

[lionelsoni]

I have a truck from a 219 Alco that seems to be the same as yours.  It's not hard to separate the plastic sideframe casting from the sheet metal.  It might be easier to remove the inner wheelset first.  Then pry the sheet metal and the plastic apart at the inside.  There is a triangular fillet in the plastic bolster at the inside corners.  Pry between this and the metal to lift the metal vertically off the plastic, alternating between the two sides so that the metal part comes straight up.

I would definitely remove the zinc plating from the top of the sheet steel before trying to solder.  You may need to use acid flux.  I would tin both broken pieces and the patch first, then reflow the solder to join them.  The hardest part will be holding everything in place.  I would cut or drill a hole in the patch to clear the drawbar rivet.

[kpolak]

Got it!  Can this be a lead free solder used for plumbing?

Thank you,

Kurt

[cwburfle]

That's a two-piece 1055 style truck.

 You can get replacement parts from Lionel. You will need a replacement sheet metal frame, Lionel part number 600-1055-064 Top Plate, and a replacement rivet for the coupler, part number 600-0520-031 shoulder rivet, and a CP-58 truck stud. You can get the first two parts directly from Lionel for less than two dollars plus shipping. They probably have the stud too, but I don't know the current part number.

You will need to remove the truck from the locomotive. It is normally held in place by a c-clip, or a horse shoe washer. Then you can seperate the old top plate from the plastic truck frame by gently prying it apart. I use the wheel as a resting place for a screwdriver, and work the pieces apart, bit by bit, moving the screwdriver around all four wheels. (The screwdriver goes in between the wheel and the top plate).

Drill out the end of the old coupler rivet.. Install the coupler on the new top plate, using the new shoulder rivet. There should be a centering spring to move over.

Put the truck stud in the top of the truck plate, and splay the other end.

Then you can re-assemble the truck by gently, evently, and firmly squeezing it together.

I use specialized tools to splay or roll the ends of the rivets. Some folks use center punches and the like. Just don't overtighten them.

[lionelsoni]

Lead-free solder (essentially tin) will work; but 60-40 has a lower melting temperature.

I think prying at the middle is safer, since it doesn't put any load on the cantilevered ends of the sideframes.

[iguanaman3]

I think you should use epoxy and a metal plate over the break. Soldering steel is not fun and epoxy will be plenty strong.

Neil