Need tips on bending, fitting and cutting Gargraves Flex Track 3 rail

[cruikshank]

I know to watch the video, but another club member took it home and I need to put in a few good hours laying track tomorrow.  I noticed on some previously laid line they did not cut it straight across at curved junctions but kept the outer two lines shorter than the inside one.  I tried cutting it straight across with a 2" cutting blade on a dremel.  I wasn't getting quite a straight cut and was not happy with the fit.  I didn't sign up for this, I volunteered to wire the whole layout, but we all need to learn new skills.  I'll take any advice you can give me.  Thanks,  Dave

[phillyreading]

Dave,

One thing I have found out with working with GarGraves track is that all three rails are insulated from each other.  To cut GarGraves track I usually use a hacksaw as it gives an even cut across all three rails.  I don't recommend cutting curve track unless you have experiance with GarGraves track, also if you adapt from Lionel's 027 or O gauge track make sure that it is at least three feet away from any switches to cut down on derailments.   Gargraves curves come in many diameters, 032 thru 072, so cutting a curve really is not neccesary. I use Gargraves track clips which you attach to the underside of the rail and paint the exposed silver to match my layout covering, makes the clip less noticeable.

To order replacement switch machines made by DZ Industries I go to Ross Custom switches website.

Another quick note about Gargraves switches is you may have to play with them to stop the derailments, usually the track is unlevel near the switch.  Gargraves switches will allow most of your trains to go thru without any hangups, a common problem with Lionel's 027 switches, and they are easier to wire and very easy to replace bad switch motors.

The other reason I went with Gargraves track is it looks more realistic than regular tubular track and has less problems with the switches.  I don't like the looks of Fastrac and you can't piece it together easily, the same goes for Realtrack.

Lee F.

[Roger Bielen]

When I installed my GG I cut templates from 1/4" plywood for bending.  The were cut a bit less than the true radius I wanted to allow for spring in the track.  When bending I started at the middle and worked to the ends sliding the ties as needed.  When done with the bend I cut the end that would join to an existing track with a Dremel and mounted the track onto the layout following a pre-drawn line (center line of the cork roadbed).  When the length was down I  worked the rails toward the joint by tapping with a small hammer and wood block then cut the rails.  If desired you could stagger the rail joints by leaving one of the rails a bit longer than the other and compensate with the next length of track.