Riveting Discussion.....Pun intended.

[Rickster]

I want to do some basic repairs of knuckle couplers and trucks, but I'm perplexed as to what tools I really need.   I was wondering what others do and what specific tools they recommend.  I've seen the adds for various tools, but the more I look into the the more confused I get.  I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars unless I really need to.

Thank you in advance.

 

Rick G. Mpls.

[Anonymous]

Rick,

          A sharp pair of diagonal cutters is useful to cut the head off a knuckle rivet.  To flare rivets, a ball peen hammer and a set of center punches, and a small anvil are all you need to get started.  An 8 or 12 oz. ball peen hammer is ideal.  There is a rivet press on the market, but I really don't think it would be a wise investment if you are just working on your own trains. 

[trigtrax]

It all depends on how much riveting you plan to do. You can set the knuckle couper rivet with a tap from a center punch. Most other riveting requires a press and specialized anvils. I use a 1/2 ton Famco and have made all my own tooling, but if you haven't got a complete machine shop you'll need to invest several hundred bucks in the hobbyist equipment sold by a few specialized companies. Every so often an original Lionel rivet press comes up on e-bay.. That'll be your most expensive option for the Collector/Repairman .. Both Hobby Horse and Chicago Rivet sell the equipment.

[Anonymous]

This is a riveting site (Web, that is).

http://www.toytrainrevue.com/service.htm

Riveting tool - HH1000  $250.00 (same as Lionel's)  http://www.ttender.com/partphotos/index.html

 

Pun intended.

.

[lionelsoni]

Here is how I replace a knuckle spring:

Do not try to pry the knuckle pin out with a pair of diagonal cutters or any other way. If you can even get a purchase on the pin, you will probably make a mess of both it and the coupler body.

Put the coupler upside down on top of the jaws of a vise which have been opened just enough to clear the head of the pin or wood surface with clearance for the knuckle pin to come out.  . Then drive the pin out with an ice pick--the old slender kind, not a fat modern one.  The tip of the ice pick goes into the depression at the bottom of the pin and follows the pin into the coupler as the pin is forced out, keeping everything together.  It's easier if you have the coupler or even the truck separate from the car, but not worth it if that involves any extra work at all.

Remove the ice pick, the knuckle, and the pin. There is no reason to save a broken spring. If the bottom of the pin is spread too much to go back into the coupler, work it back into shape with the smooth back part of the jaws of a pair of pliers. However, a little resistance is better than a completely loose fit, since it helps to keep things together when reassembling.

Put the new spring onto the pin.  The straight end goes inside the coupler body.  The bent end extends across the opening of the coupler.  I put the knuckle hinge against the side of the pin, with the spring slid to the top of the pin.  Carefully withdraw the pin, sliding it along the knuckle hinge.  When it just clears the top of the hinge, move the knuckle into place, while the last little bit of the pin keeps the spring securely in place.  Push the pin back in, through the knuckle hinge and all the way through to the bottom of the coupler body.  Finally, spread the riveted end of the pin with a center punch, but not tight, instead, just enough to keep it from falling out.  This makes it easier to remove the next time.

If you happen to bend or otherwise damage the pin, use a new one.  But I find that I almost always can reuse the old one, which often has a different head appearance than the replacement.

[Rickster]

Jim, Trig, Steve and Bob,

Thank you all for your responses. 

Rickster