Transformer for accessories only

[Anonymous]

I'm looking for a transformer to power only accessories, I've been looking on Ebay and have seen some very good reconditioned Lionel RW 110 watt transformers for $50 plus shipping. Can anyone tell me if this would be a good choice or can you recommend something else?......thx......tom.

[Roger Bielen]

Tom, depending on the accessories and quantity a 100Watt +/- is a decent size.  It is best to have both fixed and variable outputs so that you can better "tune" operating accessories and have fixed, i.e. lights, switches, on a fixed voltage.

[Chris F]

The RW is a reasonable choice if you don't have to many accessories to operate at once and the voltage outputs are appropriate.

Postwar transformer wattage rating is input; expect about 70 Watts from an RW for continuous operation.

Using terminal A as "ground" (outside rail) will give you 9-19V variable (U-A), 9V fixed (C-A), and 19V fixed (D-A).  This is the normal hookup for a single-throttle Postwar transformer, but 19V is a bit high for most accessories.

Using terminal B as "ground" will give you 6-16V varible (U-B), 15V fixed (D-B), and 10V fixed (C-D).  The disadvantage to this setup is that you won't be able to use the track "ground" to get 10V.

If I were looking for a Postwar transformer to power only accessories, I'd want a Type V (150W input, 110W output) or a Type Z (250W input, 180W output).  Both have 4 variable outputs.  These transformers are at least 60 years old, so I would purchase one only if it had been reconditioned by a known reputible seller.

[nickt22]

If your'e powering a an small-average amount of accessories, Lionel has a small transformer that I have the works well. I think its still in the catalogs too

[FJ and G]

Home Depot and Lowe's sometimes has sales on DC transformers. I have HO transformers from my small scale days in the 1970s that I often use. I also use a Lionel DC transformer that once powered a construction set.

[phillyreading]

Chris F,

I will agre with you that 19 volts is a lot of power for most accessories, however the post war 022 O gauge switches need that kind of power to throw the solenoid, post war 022 switches do not seem to get hurt with higher voltage compared to modern O gauge switches that will onlt take up to 14 volts or get hurt badly at over 14 volts.

I have a type Z transformer and it has four adjustable outputs, no whistle or horn button. From what I know about post war transformers if it don't have "W" in the letter code it don't have a whistle control built-in.

Other note about post war transformers is that they need better circuit protection added such as fuses or circuit breakers to the output side to use with modern equipment.

Lee F.

[cnw1995]

I use a series of transformers that I have from my N scale days - they're basic DC transformers branded for LifeLike or Bachmann. I've been experimenting with them a bit to find the right balance of load - without any sort of monitoring equipment. As Lee noted, these newer ones have a bit better circuit protection than my older Lionel transformers.

[phillyreading]

Doug,

I am using D.C. transformers with built-in circuit breakers from Radio Shack to power my lights on my layout so I can use the train transformers for powering trains. Small G.E. Mazda lights will take A.C. or D.C. voltage and I put ten or 12 lights in a parallel circuit.   I used to put 120 volts on the table top for lighting(about 15 years ago) but have decided that 12 volts is a lot safer if something goes wrong. Basically any small transformer is good for lighting as long as voltage is correct for the lights.

Lee F.

 

[4kitties]

Tom,

You won't need the whistle controller if you're only powering accessories.  In my experience, transformers without whistle controllers can be had for a bit less money than those with them.  Along that line, you might want to consider a type R, which has 100 watts vs. 110.  I use one to power a decorative lighthouse in my backyard, and it has been totally reliable.  Whatever model you choose, make sure to get one with a circuit breaker that works properly.  Also make sure the cord and plug are in good shape.  It doesn't pay to take chances with a marginal cord or plug.  Good luck!

Joel

[MojavenSF]

Tom,

I use two MTH/Rail King transformers to run my small layout.  I use a Z-750 and a Z-1000 with the grounds/commons connected.  The fixed 14VAC output of the Z-1000 brick powers my turnouts and accessories while the Z-750 variable output powers the mainline.  This configuration works fine with any Post War Lionel and Marx locomotive and or operating accessory I have connected to it, as well as modern era Lionel, Rail King, and K-line.  My local train store always has plenty of the Z-XXXX transformers available form set break ups.  I also see them on Ebay.

[traindaddy1]

Currently, there are 2 crossing gates, a 145  gateman, a crossing signal, a 3469 dump car, a 3472 auto. milk car, 2 mainline signals and a series of highway lights on my small layout.

The power source is a CW-80 with the transformer accessory lead going to a series of barrier terminal strips to which the accessories are connected.  My CW-80 (E-Bay, new, w/ship $42)

I am definitely not a "voltage" expert like the real 'pros' on this forum who know about the "best" but I thought I'd like to share an alternative idea until you decide on a final solution. 

 

[phillyreading]

traindaddy1,

Don't add more accessories to the CW-80 as it is already near its limit.  I would suggest buying another transformer if you want to add more accessories.  The highway lights could be put on a small D.C. transformer like an H.O. transformer or cell phone charger transformer and work, not as brightly but at a good level of brightness. Most small lights can use either A.C. or D.C. with no harm done, LED style lights are differant!

Lee F.

[lionelsoni]

I'll repeat this old post here for anyone who needs to measure the voltage out of a CW80 transformer used for accessories:

The usual way of measuring AC voltages is the root-mean-square (RMS, the square-root of the average of the square) voltage.  Any AC voltmeter you are likely to have will measure the correct RMS voltage only if the waveform is sinusoidal.  Unfortunately, the CW80's waveform is not sinusoidal.  So its voltage can be measured accurately only with a rather special voltmeter.

What I have done is to make a table for the CW80 that converts the reading taken with an ordinary voltmeter to RMS volts.  You can see that there can be nearly 4 volts difference between the reading and the actual RMS voltage:

0             0
 1             2.7
 2             4.4
 3             6
 4             7.3
 5             8.6
 6             9.7
 7             10.8
 8             11.8
 9             12.7
 10            13.6
 11            14.4
 12            15.1
 13            15.8
 14            16.4
 15            17
 16            17.4
 17            17.8
 18            18

[pbjwilson]

My power supply.

But in a pinch an RW would work just fine.

[traindaddy1]

Lee F.  THANKS FOR THE ADVICE.  For now, I am probably at the end of my space and budget so adding more is a distant dream (But one never knows!) Thanks, again, for the info.

[traindaddy1]

BOB: I'm one of the "anyone". Made a copy for reference. Many thanks.