alcofanschdy wrote: Will the Beeps handle 022 switches? I've heard yes and no. Can anyone give me another opinion? ThanksBruce
Will the Beeps handle 022 switches? I've heard yes and no. Can anyone give me another opinion? Thanks
Bruce
Oh my. I second this question. My interior line discussed above, where I would be running the BEEP primarily, consists of 072 and 022 traditional switches. If it can't do those, that would obviously be a serious problem.
Sekon56 wrote: Regarding the comment about being able to find the GEEPs at a better price from dealers than from the RMT website, I looked at a load of dealers I do online buying from and found a dismal selection and prices only about $5 cheaper than list. The website seems to have a very large variety to choose from, I'll say that.
Regarding the comment about being able to find the GEEPs at a better price from dealers than from the RMT website, I looked at a load of dealers I do online buying from and found a dismal selection and prices only about $5 cheaper than list. The website seems to have a very large variety to choose from, I'll say that.
So many different BEEPs have been made that the chances of finding the particular one you want at a dealer are probably pretty slim, unless you shop around a good bit. I guess about half of the BEEPs I have been bought from dealers, and you generally will get them at a lower price buying them that way.
However, the BEEPs are so inexpensive to begin with that I find it just as easy and more convenient to order directly from RMT most of the time. Might cost a couple of bucks more, but I really don't mind.
Depends on what roadnames you're looking for, I suppose. Plenty of dealers should have the popular roadnames available at about $50-$55 or so each, while you'll have a much harder time finding a P&LE version, for example, or some other more region-specific roadname. You might try JusTrains, in Delaware, to see what they have in stock.
I can only speak to the BEEP's performance in terms of Ross and GG switches. In my experience with several different radii, the BEEP only seems to have problems with the O42 switches. I've noticed three different situations -- more so with GG than Ross, I might add. First, due to "roughness" going through the switch, one or both rollers get pushed up against the frame causing a short. A piece of electrical tape on the bottom of the frame took care of that issue. The "roughness" also caused the wheels to jump particularly as the BEEP transitioned from track to plastic. This caused a loss of ground. Two fixes for this -- smooth down all transitions through the switch (sandpaper, file or Dremel) and add some weight to the loco (remove shell and glue weights on frame over wheels -- three to six ounces per side should be enough). Finally, the distance between the two rollers is short enough that both rollers can lose contact particularly between the frog and the middle rail. Besides MUing or adding a roller equiped car behind the loco as compensation, I shaved down the plastic guide and added 1/16 inch of solder to the ends of the middle rails. Basically extended the middle rail and shortened the dead area so that one roller was always receiving power. You could also cut out about half of the plastic guide and insert part of a track pin if you prefer not to solder. I should note that this last situation did not occur uniformly on all of my O42 switches, probably due to lack of uniformity in dimensions within the switches.
Hope this helps.
Poppyl
Justrains does have a good selection, but they are only $5 cheaper than RMT's website, so it is probably not worth the time or effort to shop around. RMT offers such a diversity (not even counting their custom runs) that I would think few hobby shops could afford to carry all their stock. Good luck! As for me, after spending a lot of internet time shopping around for better prices, I am just going to order from the RMT website.
I have a few of these little gems. I can understand how some may not like them due to size, etc, but they are neat and will fit the bill with regard to my kids. If you search around, you may find a really good deal. I got two (Air Force, and Marines) for $60 for the set NIB. I also have the Lackawanna and it was a gift from my favorite HS owner. I look forward to many hours of fun with these.
Dennis
TCA#09-63805
Sekon56 wrote: Justrains does have a good selection, but they are only $5 cheaper than RMT's website, so it is probably not worth the time or effort to shop around. RMT offers such a diversity (not even counting their custom runs) that I would think few hobby shops could afford to carry all their stock. Good luck! As for me, after spending a lot of internet time shopping around for better prices, I am just going to order from the RMT website.
I noticed that too - JT appeared to be the cheapest and that as you say was only $5. I guess if JT has what you want, you can order from them and save the five bucks, but there is no reason to compromise on road names given the small price difference, I agree.
I had a problem with my beep going over 0-22 switches at slow speeds. The problem seemed to be the short wheelbase, one wheel being insulated from the outside rail because of the traction tire, and the insulated rail on the 0-22 switch for the non-derailing feature. I solved this by grounding the coupler to the motor and pull a car with metal truck and coupler. Now I can creep over my switches in any direction. If I'm not pulling a car I just need to remember to go a little faster over the switches.
My Beeps sometimes balked on 027 switches (new K-line but worse on old Lionel). I realized something (the roller?) was shorting on the black metal piece that moves back and forth. I looked at the top of it and I saw pits from arching. I put a piece of tape just on the top of the metal piece and it cured that problem. I also taped the SIDES of the big metal piece in the center that does not move. I did not want the wheels to accidently brush against it.
Finally I noticed that sometimes my Beep would not trigger the non-derail feature. It turns out the switch was not perfectly level and one of the wheels was off the track. If I pushed down on the beep the problem was corrected so I made my switch mounting and approaching track flatter.
When my track curves are not good and level my beeps sometimes derail the following car if it is very light (think K-line 027 plastic cars from sets). I think the Beep spring that keeps the coupler in the middle is a tad too strong. I fix this problem by adding a little weight over the truck next to the Beep or removing the Beep spring.
Jim H
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