022 switch indicators melting-help?

[northernpike]

I have 022 switches on my layout.  I am using the fixed voltage plugs on the switch.  I have them connected to the D post of the KW.  (The 14v post will not open the switch fast enough)

The hoods are getting distorted.  What can I try next?

Thanks

Tom

[Kooljock1]

Get higher voltage bulbs, or switch your bulbs over to LED's from Scott's Odds 'n Ends.

Jon :cool:

[Anonymous]

northernpike,

The plastic hoods are getting distorted because it's too hot inside. Make sure that the little ventilation hole is not obstructed -- some folks have been known to tape over them.

As Kooljock1 suggested, switching to a lamp (bulb) rated for a higher voltage could be all you need. For example, if your present lamps are rated for 14 volts, try 18v or even 24. These lamps will run cooler if not "maxed out." That is, a "24 volt" bulb will run cooler at 14 volts than a "14 volt" bulb will at 14 volts. At least that's the theory.

If that fails, try light-emitting diodes. You can buy direct replacements, but they are relatively expensive. Kooljock1 suggested a good source.

You also might try cleaning/lubricating your turnouts (switches). In most cases, 14 volts should be enough to operate them although I have used higher. I like 'em to really snap. It prevents a lot of de-railing....

 

[northernpike]

Thanks for the help.  The hoods were repros with now holes.  I am going to fire up the drill!

Thanks

Tom

[trainbrain]

Yes, drill the holes on top and use 18v bulbs.  The D post is closer to 20v.  Its hot!  Lionel suggested using a 50 watt Ohm resistor which they sent me to lessen the output. 

[Dave45681]

I'll add another vote for 24 volt bulbs.

That way, even if you decide to run TMCC at or near 18V, the heat wil not be  as bad as with the lower voltage bulbs.

 I buy them from Town and Country hobbies at shows, but they can be found on the web with a simple google search. 

[Back2Trains]

Go to LEDs in both the switches and the controllers. Not only will your switches run cooler but so will your transformer. I had 17 0-22s on my old layout and I used one KW just to power them. That was 34 bulbs and after a few minutes that KW was warm while the other 2 that were for accessory power were still cold. By the way, you might want to check your switch motors. O-22s should exhibit a solid snap at 14 volts and certainly at 16 but 20 volts is way too high.

[underworld]

If that bulb is about 1/2 inch globe, a #432 is 18 volt. GE makes this bulb as well as several other companies and should be available at most hobby stores.

underworld

[lionelsoni]

Your 022 may require a bayonet-base lamp.  The 432 has a screw base.  It also has a rather large 9/16-inch diameter bulb.  The 1445 (bayonet) or 1447 (screw), with a 7/16 bulb might be better choices.

[Anonymous]

northernpike,

There is a lot of good advice here, and you have some decisions to make. Don't rush it. At first blush it wouldn't seem to be all that complex a problem, but it is. Sigh!

Try drilling a hole in the top of just one lantern and see how you like it. I always found the white light emanating from those little holes to be remarkably annoying, which may be why your repro manufacturer left them out.

24 volt incandescent bulbs will be a little cooler and a little dimmer, and I would try one. You may not have to drill any vent holes.

If you decide to try LED's, you want to consult with the dealer or someone else on the forum who has personal experience. I have read (but have no personal experience) that, for the lanterns themselves, you want the side-firing type of LED (unfocused, I think they are called) unlike what you would want for a headlight or a flashlight. Not sure which type you would want for the controllers. LED's are definitely the wave of the future, but at the moment they are quite expensive in the short term. In the long term they are cost-effective, very long-lasting, cool in operation, and put much less load on your transformer. Even with a KW, this can be significant. If I had spare cash, I'd go with LED's -- but I haven''t yet.

If you stick with the incandescent variety, your choice  would depend on whether the controllers have the red and green caps, or just use the naked bulbs. If the latter, I prefer the the translucent ones to the flat-finish painted ones, which always seem to chip and develop pinholes. This is strictly a matter of personal preference, but to my eye the translucent ones are a closer match to the appearance of the lanterns and just plain look better. 

Keep in mind that these bulbs are made in either screw- or bayonet-base, and in at least two globe sizes. Yours may all be of one kind, or they may be mix-and-match. Best to check each turnout and each controller.

Brasseur's in Saginaw, MI, has a large selection of incandescent lamps and a reputation for being helpful.

Scott's Odds 'n' Ends, as mentioned above, is a good place to start for direct replacement LED's -- no additional wiring needed -- just twist or screw them in to the existing sockets.

 

[phillyreading]

A 50 watt resistor is a lot of pull, are you sure that you don't mean a 50 ohm resister at a half watt?

Try using 18 volt bulbs or LED's as mentioned before.

Lee F.

[underworld]

Your 022 may require a bayonet-base lamp.  The 432 has a screw base.  It also has a rather large 9/16-inch diameter bulb.  The 1445 (bayonet) or 1447 (screw), with a 7/16 bulb might be better choices.

Thanks Bob! I didn't realize it was that big of a bulb.

underworld

[Back2Trains]

There was an article in one of the magazines sometime back about converting switch lanterns to LEDs. I tried their idea of installing a white LED with a diode and current limiting resistor in series. I simply wired the 3 pieces together using appropriate shrink sleeving and soldered one lead to a power terminal in the switch motor and the free lead of the LED to the lamp socket. The leads are stiff enough that the LED will stay where you put it. They also suggested using aluminum foil inside the lantern cap to both reflect light downward toward the lenses and also to cover the hole which is no longer needed for ventilation. With this arrangement the light output from the lantern was not as bright as we are used to but was sufficient. A friend who worked as a Ford designer suggested that I file the rounded end of the LED flat then take a drill bit the same size or slightly larger than the diameter of the LED and form the end of the LED into an iverted cone and paint this area with silver paint. This should reflect the light out the sides. I haven't tried this yet but it seems like it would work. White LEDs can be bought fairly cheaply through online electronic stores such as Digi-Key and Hosfelt and the resistors and diodes are very cheap. LEDs also work well in the controllers and the cheapest red and green ones can be used without modification. Hope this helps. By the way, I was running my switches on 14 volts fixed. 

[northernpike]

Thanks again for all of the info.  I checked out the Scotts site.  The LEDs are great but are too expensive-it would be $100 to outfit my switches.  I might try the 24v bulbs.  Thanks for all of the great advice!!

[phillyreading]

I have post war type 022 switches by Lionel and I think the plastic is differant than today's plastic, never had an older lamp cover melt!  The older plastic was more solid and broke easier but withstood temperatures better, the material was called Bakelight; a hardened plastic or an attempt at modern plastic.

Lee F.

[lionelsoni]

If you are willing to get into the turnout wiring a little, you can wire a rectifier diode in series with the lamp.  This will reduce the voltage by about 30 percent.  It will also draw a little DC from the transformer; so, if you do this to several switches, insert half of the diodes pointing one way, half the other, to balance out the current.  A 1N4001-family diode would be suitable.