I live in Pennsylvania near the location of the former Ironton Railroad. The Ironton Railroad was a smaller line that survived into the 1960's due to the cement industry in the area. Obviously none of the manufacturers produce Ironton Railroad locomotives so I am planning on re lettering a MTH Baldwin VO 1000 from the Pennsylvania Railroad to the Ironton Railroad. Where can I find some instruction on the steps required to remove the graphics on the locomotive, and re apply new lettering for the Ironton Railroad?
SK
This is a question you might try posting on the OGR Forum. I know I have seen the topic there before, so myabe try a search over there.
I'm not a big MTH fan only for reasons of size and included electonics. But I know I have read from others in the past the the MTH products are difficult at best to strip. They use a painting process or type of paint that is very tough to get off. Normally I use automotive brake fluid or original formula Pine Sol for K-Line/Lionel products. THe new Lionel Chinese made stuff strips remarkably easily.
You might just simply clean the loco shell, removing window glazing etc. and use a very fine automotive sand paper to take down any hearlds or logos that will give you the most trouble when repainting... these show through more so than anything else. Check the OGR boards, or even do a search here, but I know this has been discussed on the other forum.
brianel, Agent 027
"Praise the Lord. I may not have everything I desire, but the Lord has come through for what I need."
Brian - glad you brought this up, I started on a Lionel Mikado for a friend (client) yesterday and it is also my first attempt, but he's willing. He gave me a product called "Easy-Lift-Off" that he picked up at the hobby shop. I did the numbers on the side of the engine and luckily I stumbled on the right time to let it sit where it softened the numbers so they could be scrubeed off but did not yet get to the black coat. On the number boards it took off both the numbers and black background but not the gun metal base. On the cab side there is a slight ghost of the numbers if held at the correct angle to the light. Today I'll try the tender.
I plan on just masking the area on the cab side and the total side of the tender and giving a light recoat of Krylon Semi-flat enamel, looks like a good match. The one thing I have yet to solve is the overspray for the decals so that it doesn't dull, or glossy up the area. I recently read of mixing liquid DullCoat and Gloss, thinning and airbrushing, the problem is finding liquid rather than areosol. Another avenue I've yet to check is artist matt sprays, I'll hit Michael's this week to see whats available.
God bless TCA 05-58541 Benefactor Member of the NRA, Member of the American Legion, Retired Boss Hog of Roseyville , KC&D Qualified
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