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eyeball saver

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eyeball saver
Posted by FJ and G on Monday, November 27, 2006 2:48 PM


courtesy 7/8n2/18 group
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Posted by pbjwilson on Monday, November 27, 2006 4:42 PM
Mr. Dave, I dont get it. I see the Top of a table saw. Whats the eyeball saver?
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Posted by palallin on Monday, November 27, 2006 4:51 PM
Probably fingers, too.
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Posted by csxt30 on Monday, November 27, 2006 4:57 PM

I didn't get it either, but let me guess if it has something to do with the red colored blade ? !!

Thanks, John

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Posted by jefelectric on Monday, November 27, 2006 6:49 PM
David, We are waiting for the answer. Confused [%-)]
John Fullerton Home of the BUBB&A  http://www.jeanandjohn.net/trains.html
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Posted by csxt30 on Monday, November 27, 2006 7:03 PM

 jefelectric wrote:
David, We are waiting for the answer. Confused [%-)]

Yeah !!! This is going to be big !! I can't wait !! Big Smile [:D]Big Smile [:D]

Thanks, John 

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Posted by FJ and G on Monday, November 27, 2006 7:31 PM
The wood fence, when moved up to the saw blade, stops the thin wood (lauan) from flipping up and flying at the person. The fence would be clamped to the table and the thin wood pushed thru.
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Posted by pbjwilson on Monday, November 27, 2006 7:37 PM
O.K., so I'm looking at the outfeed of the saw, correct? And the fence has a notch cut at the bottom to keep the wood fom flying in my face. Very nice. You usually are more generous with words. Was this a test of word conservation? Or are you testing our woodworking knowledge?
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Posted by pbjwilson on Monday, November 27, 2006 7:44 PM

Thats pretty cool. Now I get it. I cut some Plexiglass not long ago and could have used something like this. Splinters in the face are not nice.

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Posted by csxt30 on Monday, November 27, 2006 7:48 PM

Thanks Dave !!  I sometimes need it spelled out to me !! Very nice idea !!

Thanks, John

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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 6:05 AM
You can't have too many types of jigs. Here's some push-type, photo courtesy of 7/8n2/18 group.



With these jigs, goggles, a full face mask, this would noticeably decrease the odds of losing digits and getting skewered.

Lots of guys don't use a table saw at all b/c of the inherent dangers and instead opt to buy their stripwood for projects.

To each his/her own.

(sorry for the word shortage. In the first picture, I figured it out right away b/c I cut lots of thin stripwood. The light weight of the stripwood tends to give it more of an airborne characteristic. In the second photo in this reply, I cannot figure out how some of the push sticks work, since they are curved, but I can see the utility in the ones with the handles. An old clothes iron, IMO, would work just as well; these things pay for themselves many times over and I'm happy to pass along this info)


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Posted by pbjwilson on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 7:25 AM

Dave,

Thanks for sharing. Being in the building trades I see alot of interesting tools and gadgets. Seems like every carpenter does things in his own unique style. I like to ask questions of these guys to add to my knowledge of woodworking. And a table saw is probably the number one tool to have for consistant cuts and mass production of wood pieces.You generously have shown us your handiwork and skills in building. Always enjoy your posts.

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Posted by Brutus on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 8:40 AM

A good table saw is your number 1 tool for any serious woodworking project.  Dave - you'll also notice the zero-clearance insert, which prevents thin pieces from getting wedged by the blade and thrown across the room at 4000 RPM speed etc.  I had a Craftsman table saw in the past that had a huge gap around the blade and small pieces were always wedging and flying off in different directions, generally toward me!!!!  I upgraded to an older style Delta Unisaw and it's terrific!  You can custom make zero-clearance inserts with a router, or Peachtree carries pre-made ones made from some kind of slick plastic that are very reasonable - look on Amazon.  They have different sizes for most of the table saws that are currently available, including Grizzly etc.

RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.

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Posted by cnw1995 on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 9:40 AM

Table saws scare the daylights out of me. Then again, I'm still getting used to the Dremel (tm).

Doug Murphy 'We few, we happy few, we band of brothers...' Henry V.

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Posted by palallin on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:14 AM
I've got an ancient Craftsman model, and I can't seem to control blade deflection enough to use a zero clearance insert.  Any suggestions (other than replace the saw)?
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Posted by FJ and G on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 10:35 AM
 Jim Fortner wrote:

A good table saw is your number 1 tool for any serious woodworking project.  Dave - you'll also notice the zero-clearance insert, which prevents thin pieces from getting wedged by the blade and thrown across the room at 4000 RPM speed etc.  I had a Craftsman table saw in the past that had a huge gap around the blade and small pieces were always wedging and flying off in different directions, generally toward me!!!!  I upgraded to an older style Delta Unisaw and it's terrific!  You can custom make zero-clearance inserts with a router, or Peachtree carries pre-made ones made from some kind of slick plastic that are very reasonable - look on Amazon.  They have different sizes for most of the table saws that are currently available, including Grizzly etc.



THANKS, Jim! Didn't know what that was and that that was the cause for objects being thrown from my patio clear across the fence into my neighbor's yard. I'll have to make one of them as well, or several!

(Pallalin, these zero blade clearance objects should do the trick, shown in first photo)
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Posted by Brutus on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 11:49 AM

Dave - check out the Wood Magazine online forum sometime - I used to post there pretty often, but am pretty well tooled up now so post a lot less.  Still read it pretty often though.  They have a section on new tools/buying, old tools, woodworking projects and problems, dust collection, etc.

Palallin - is it blade deflection or is the arbor on your saw (the spindle to which the blade attaches) bent?

If it's the blade, this is a very common problem.  Many blades are so thin that they deflect when they are running.  Many of the blade manufacturers make blade stiffeners that fit beside the blade - essentially a round steel plate.  I've seen folks use one on one side or use 2, with 1 on each side of the blade.  You'll need to adjust your cursor on your fence though.  You can look on toolcrib (Amazon), Woodworker's Supply, Rockler, etc for stiffeners.  I know Freud makes them and they last forever.

 

RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.

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Posted by palallin on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 1:50 PM
 Jim Fortner wrote:

Palallin - is it blade deflection or is the arbor on your saw (the spindle to which the blade attaches) bent?

If it's the blade, this is a very common problem.  Many blades are so thin that they deflect when they are running.  Many of the blade manufacturers make blade stiffeners that fit beside the blade - essentially a round steel plate.  I've seen folks use one on one side or use 2, with 1 on each side of the blade.  You'll need to adjust your cursor on your fence though.  You can look on toolcrib (Amazon), Woodworker's Supply, Rockler, etc for stiffeners.  I know Freud makes them and they last forever.

 

It's not the arbor:  the deflection is varible.  I'll look into the stiffeners.  Thanks!

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Posted by Brutus on Tuesday, November 28, 2006 8:59 PM

toolcrib/amazon is out, but woodworker.com (woodworker's supply) still has them, here's a link.

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=133-730

I've bought a couple or three thousand dollars worth of tools from these guys and only ever had one problem, which they immediately made right on the phone.  You can buy online or call.  You might get free shipping if you call - sometimes they do that.  I think the sales guys like you calling and not just buying online!  They have 4 or 5 inch stiffeners and they are for 10 inch blades.  Freud blades have very tight arbor tolerances, so make sure you have a 5/8 inch arbor.  Even so, they will sort of screw on, not just slide on and off like (say) a sears blade, which has a slightly wider hole.  You might want to try shopping around locally or at Rockler or other suppliers, I'm not on commission!

As for the zero-clearance tablesaw inserts, here is the brand I bought and it's pretty good and cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi/102-3786752-6533732?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=peachtree+zero+clearance+insert&Go.x=14&Go.y=12

RIP Chewy - best dog I ever had.

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