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Modifying MTH Shells, Correcting their AS-616

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Gilbert, Arizona
  • 67 posts
Modifying MTH Shells, Correcting their AS-616
Posted by Mimbrogno on Thursday, November 9, 2006 3:40 PM

Hello again!

I've got an MTH AS-616 that I plan to rebuild because there are some gross inacuracies that just bug the heck out of me. Before I do anything though, I want to find out more about how I should do it before I wreck this engine.

The main issue is the smoke stack and turbocharger access hatch. MTh put the stack in the middle of the hood, instead of on the left quarter of the hood like it should be. They also had to move the moulding of the bolts for the turbo access hatch along with it to clear for the stack. It wouldn't be so bad if they extended the panel molding sideways, as it curves over from the roof of the hood to the side of it, but they just moved the whole thing as it is, leaving a gap where it should touch the side of the hood. I was thinking of fixing it by cutting out the hatch and stack, cutting off the excess between the stack and the side, and reattaching the stack and access hatch in the hood with a new strip of plastic to fill in the gap in the middle.

What I need to know is what kind of plastic or resin does MTH use for their bodies, and what glues, paints, solvents, etc are compatable with it? What material should I use for the filling piece? What's the best way to cut it, (saw or razor), and what color of paint will best match the color of the rest of the surrounding hood (SP Blackwidow black).

Another issue I want to fix are it's trucks. This model has an atrocious ride quality and I wanted to find better trucks for it. The trucks it has are identical to the ones on Lionel's old FM H-24-66 Trainmaster, and they hardly support the unit at all especially around curves. Does somebody make a modified version of this truck with all wheels flanged and powered, (or at least the outer axles) which uses the same motor and sideframe mountings? The way it rides now, with the 2 close axles powered (the center with a traction tire) and the far axle unflanged, unsupported, and basically useless; all the weights on the center axle and traction tire. The tires will wear out after just a few hours.

Thanks for taking the time to read this!
Matthew Imbrogno
-Mechanical Vollenteer, Arizona Railway Museum
www.azrymuseum.org

 

Helping to keep Baldwins alive in the 21st century!
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Plymouth, MI
  • 1,615 posts
Posted by chuck on Thursday, November 9, 2006 4:57 PM
Plastic ic ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene).  It can be glued with Tennex 7R and Super Weld-on 3 or 4.  Cuts /sands like styrene (which it is related to).    You will need to some work to find/match the colors/finish.  Good luck on the trucks.
When everything else fails, play dead
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: South Western PA
  • 139 posts
Posted by Smoke Stack Lightnin' on Thursday, November 9, 2006 8:58 PM

In Baldwin Diesels 2 by Jim Boyd, it looks like the oval and rectagular stacked AS-616's are to the side as you mention, but the round stacked look more to the center.  MTH does take liberties, but probably the only "store in town" for the AS-616.  My C&O runs very good on tubular 072 and 054.  I've got 76 hours on it and the tires are holding up very well.  Wish somebody made a Baby Face (I have the Shark and Centipede units also).  Good to hear from a Baldwin fan, most people think the lot of them (diesels) are just plain ugly! 

Good Luck in your modifications.  If it doesn't turn out so good, you can cover it up with "weathering".

Rich F.  

  • Member since
    December 2001
  • From: Austin, TX
  • 10,096 posts
Posted by lionelsoni on Friday, November 10, 2006 8:46 AM
Have you considered simply replacing the trucks and motors with ones from a Lionel Train Master?  The Lionel frame is just sheet steel, which should be easy to replicate in the truck areas.  You would get magnetraction in the bargain.

Bob Nelson

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