Gargraves RH Switch Question

[tex702]

My main line layout is made of gargraves phantom track.  I have installed a gargraves right hand remote controlled switch to switch off my main line and onto the track leading to my train yard.  When I connected it and used the switching button it works great.  I even rolled a few cars over the switch track and everything seemed ok.  When I put the locomotive on the track and powered it up, when it goes over the switch it is real rough.  I anchored it down onto the table to make sure it was secure and still it is real rough when it goes over the switch.  Any suggestions on how to make it a little smoother?

[csxt30]

I have the same thing with mine. I don't think they have very good tolerances or quality. I just try to keep mine in good enough order so as not to derail anything. If you want smooth, most guys try to go to Ross switches. They are known for their quality.

Thanks, John 

[tex702]

Thanks John I just sent an e-mail to Gargraves telling them I am not pleased at all with their product.  I have had good relations with Gargraves up to this point.  Lets see how they react to this problem.  For the price of these darn switches you expect them to work properly.  Thanks again John

[csxt30]

I know of a fellow that bought I think, 35 Of they're switches & sent most back & got Ross. I thought they're new ones with the Diecast points would be great, but that's what this guy got & wasn't satisfied. I think it's cause of these new & bigger engines & maybe the smaller engines would go through them ok, not sure.  

Thanks, John

[tex702]

Again thanks a lot John.  I will definaltely let you now the outcome.  I probably wont hear from them until Monday or Tuesday but as soon as I do I will let you know.  Keep watching this forum for a message from me to you.  I probably will go Ross and I hope they will be smoother.

 

[csxt30]

Great Tex, maybe someone will have some info on making the Gargraves repairable yet. I've never seen anything on repairing them yet or improving their operation, only about going to Ross. There's another Company, called Curtis that is know for the same quality as Ross but you have to wait a while for them I believe.  I'll be watching hear & if you have extra time, come on over to "The Coffee Pot" !!  Don't forget "Sunday Photo Fun" also !!

Thanks, John

[Roger Bielen]

Tex, I had similiar problems with the 2 Gargraves I have on the layout, on mine the frogs werem't deep enough and the wheel flanges of the engines would ride on the bottom of the frog instead of the rail.  I used a dremel to deepen the grooves and switched to Ross for the rest of the layout.  No problems with the Ross units.

[hastymike]

Tex,

Which type of turnout?  O42,072,0100 etc are you having problems with?  All my turnouts are Gargraves (not the latest, mine still have hollow switch rails) and while they are a little rough as compared to Ross/Curtis, I haven't had any major problems.  Like another poster I've had to use a dremel on the frog.  The one that I've had the most problems with is an 042.  On this type of turnout  the rails just but up to the plastic frog.  When an engine (usually a steamer) would run into the frog it had a tendency to ride up (pilot truck) and de-rail.  This required the use of a dremel to smooth the transistion.

In hindsight, I agree with another poster and should have ponied up the extra bucks in the first place for  Ross/Curtis turnouts, but if you are willing to tinker with them.  You can make a Gargraves work OK.

Thanks
Mike

[tex702]

Thanks HastyMike, Roger and John for all the information you three provided.  It seems to me that if Gargraves sells the product for X amount of money then it should work properly without any kind of remodeling from us.  Its about time someone tells Gargraves and make them live up to their reputation if they have one or want a good one.  What I find out in the next few days will dictate wheter or not I buy anymore products from them or recommend anyone else to them.  Sometimes word of mouth can cause things to happen both good and bad so we will see.  Thanks again guys and watch for any updates from me in the next few days.

[poppyl]

Tex;

I'm one of those guys who has had a lot of "experience" with GG switches.  I'm assuming that you are talking about an O42 switch since my experience with the larger GG switches has been pretty good.  The same can not be said for the O42's as about half of mine have required some work.  Because of this I have replaced them with Ross.  IMO, price and quality tend to move in the same direction when it comes to switches.

That having been said, you can improve your operation through the switch.  If you don't have a Dremel, you will need a file or coarse sandpaper to reduce various plastic edges in the switch.  Manually roll your loco throught the switch in all directions to observe what is happening.  If the wheels and particularly the front truck on a steamer, are jumping, the outside plastic edges need to be smoothed down and back where they transition with your track.  If you enter the switch from a curve, pay particular attention to the right side front edge.  When taking the turnout you will want to smooth the edges where the wheels transition from the track to the plastic edging.  In other words, anywhere that the wheels ride up on the plastic edging could be a source of jumping.  The pickup roller can also cause jumping.  A particular source of trouble here is the plastic guide that the roller must go over when taking the turnout.  Using a piece of wood or level you may see that this guide is higher than the frog center that the roller is on.  The roller hits this bump, is forced up to the body, and causes the entire loco to jump.

"Fixing" the switch can be frustrating with a certain degree of trial and error involved but with the appropriate smoothing/reduction in some of the plastic, performance can improve significantly.

Poppyl 

[phillyreading]

No one mentioned this as yet but are the switches 100% level?  Any grade variation within two feet of a GarGraves switch causes major problems, this happened to me when I bought a new MTH steam locomotive, derailed every time at one switch so I took the track apart and started over making sure every thing was level and the switch screwed down.  Also don't use adapter pins or adapter track within two feet of a switch as this will cause derailments.

Lee F.

[poppyl]

Good catch, Lee.  I had forgotten that point.

Poppyl

[tex702]

Thanks for the input Lee.  I have done all the above and still no help.  I have emailed Gargraves with the problem and they hae answered me with a bunch of questions like who I brought it from (the manufacture or course) the type of locomotive Im trying to run, the date of manufacture of the switch etc.  I have sent them all this information and I am now waiting for a reply.  It just seems that I have chose the wrong track to go with.  Everyone ha said how great Ross is but its a little more expensive.  Im like everyone else is about money but if I spend $60.00 plus for a switch I shouldnt have any problems with it at all.  If I have to spend a few dollars more for a good trouble free switch I guess I have no alternative but to get one.    I can tell you one thing I am getting pretty tired of this mess.  I am spending more time trying to straighten out a swith problem then I am working on my train.  I am at a point where I cant go any further until my track and switch problems are taken care of.  Thanks Lee for your time.  I appreciate it.

[tex702]

Poppyl,

 

     No I am talking about an O Gauage 0-72 switch.  What I am getting at is that I shouldnt need a dremel to file anything down.  If I have to do all these alterations to this swith then I really dont need it.  If I do have to do all this alterations then I should be in the business of making the switches.  I paid to much money to have to be going through this.  I am hell bent on making Gargraves fix the problem or give me my money back and I will go somewhere else.  I do apperciate your time trying to help me with this problem.  Everyone is telling me to go to Ross and pay a little extra money.  That is starting to sound like good advise.

[palallin]

I'm using three Gargraves 1000" switches on my layout.  The newest one is quite smooth.  The older two are a little rougher.

I consider that realism:  switches are rougher than straight track.  Real trains rumble when they go over real switches.