Just got my first MTH engine!!!

[Demon09]

Hello All,

I just got my first MTH engine and I love it!  It's an older engine, a GP-38 with Proto 1.0, but it is fantastic compared to the lower end items I've had in the past.  My favorite feature is the remote couplers.  Really makes freight movement easier on my layout....  The Freight yard sounds are OK, they can get a little bit irritating at times.  It took nearly all night to figure out how to work things while reading the instructions online (I bought the engine used, in near mint condition, but the box was slightly tattered with no instructions).

All in all, it's looking to be a very fun weekend.  And also, I will have some pictures to post in Sunday Photo fun once again!!

 

One quick question though.... Now that I have seen Proto 1.0, I am curious as to what is different about Proto 2.0.  Is it just the sounds themselves that are different, maybe some more sayings or things like that.  Or is it a matter of different/more features, easier usability?

Thanks!  Take care all!

[riverrailfan]

2.0 is more reliable than 1.0 but in order to work everything the engine is capable of with 2.0, you need DCS. I have a MTH GG-1 and all I get is the engine sound, horn and bell. To use anything else, I need DCS. I have 2 engines with Proto 1.0 and enjoy them. The one switcher I have nails the sound of the engine and horn. The horn in this engine is the most realistic I've heard in engines with sound.

[willpick]

Glad to hear that you are enjoying your new engine! the main difference between PS1 and PS2 is in the quaility of the sounds, the cruise control system, and the ease of use to acess the features that are available in conventional operation.  If you can afford the DCS system at some point, it makes sense to get it so that you can use all the built-in features. HTH!

[ChiefEagles]

Be sure to keep the battery charged.  Replace the battery in there now with a BCR type.  Dead batterry = scrambled chip.  Enjoy.

[daan]

On my layout there are 2 proto 1 units (also a gp38, in BNSF livery). On both units I dumped the NiCad battery and changed it for a NiMH battery. Those battery's have a better (longer) charge and no memory effect. They work more like a car battery..

You know far in front when the battery is weak. Sound fades away during the powerless seconds between the change in direction. You can hear it also at the end of the shut down process, normally the engine shuts down, then the engine is quit and after a few seconds you hear a "cracking" sound from the speaker. The time it takes for the speaker to make that weak cracking noise indicates the charging of the battery, the longer it takes, the better the battery is. During operation I leave them in idle at about 14 volts now and then (indicated by the clicking of the coupleroperation relay; you'll hear a weak click when the voltage is high enough to operate the couplers) to charge the battery a bit. One of them is in use for more then a year now and didn't need external battery charging in between.

I also like the machines a lot. After a while you'll get used to the operation and then it's easy to work with. And besides that, they are very much value for their money, even when I add the shipping costs to europe to them, they are a bargain! Sound is awesome, details are great (specially the premier machines) and all the lights make them spectaculair in the dark. It's a shame that they've changed it into PS2 where it's necessary to buy an extra expensive unit to get all the features. PS1 has all of that and doesn't need extra devices..

[Demon09]

I think I eventually will upgrade the battery to this new type I hear about....  I just read on here, and on the MTH site that it can fry the board if the current battery goes bad.  That kind of worries me.... I didn't pay very much for the loco, but I already love it and couldn't imagine losing it to something stupid like a battery.

And does anyone know what the reserved function (function 27) does in proto 1?  I am kind of curious as to why they would include it on the list in the manual, but not say what it does.  I wanted to try it and see what changes, but I didn't in case it was a defaulting function of some kind that will mess up the board or something like that.

Thanks all!

[daan]

The only function I needed once was the "reset to factory" function. Logically they devided their programmable functions into departments, like one for sound, one for operating possibilities, one for reset options etc. Those steps are marked by a number. Function 27 is probably a loose step in their programming.

In logical computers used in machinery (PLC's) the programming also contains loose steps. That gives possibilities to add programming rules in the future without the need of having to make a complete new program. MTH also does that, probably function 27 is used on other type's of locomotives, may be the puf's per revolution on steamers or something else a diesel doesn't need. They want to use their board and programming for every type of engine they make, so they will make the board as universal as possible. Function 27 being a loose end is one of the side effects of their programming for this type of engine.

The dead battery doesn't fry the board but since the processor will not have power to power up or shut down normally that could make the processor block. Usually when the shutdown mode (occurs most in that case) can't be completed, just start it up immediately. The processor will not produce the power-up sounds, but will shut down first. Then directly change the battery!!

If everything else failes, your board will not power up anymore. (But you've had several problems changing direction, fading sounds etc far before the processor fails, indicating that the battery is needing replacement or charge) You'll need a reset kit, which is nothing more then a new RAM memory with the setting for your locomotive. If your locomotive isn't available anymore, any other locomotive reset chip will do, but your engine will sound different (logical; another locomotive's reset kit.)

However, if your processor scrambles due to a flat battery that hardly occurs without giving very clear signs that things are going wrong. Only if you don't pay attention to it and keep on using the engine, the processor will block after a while, simply because you don't shut it down the way it should.

So don't be too afraid, just charge the battery if it starts acting funny with direction switches, sound fading away during them or not hearing the engine shut off after powering off the engine. It's not something which happens "just over night", simply don't neglect the engine..