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rail zip

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rail zip
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 27, 2006 8:26 AM
has anyone tried this stuff? will it work with the 3927 track cleaning car? what methods do you use to clean your track. I do get arcing when any car that uses voltage runs over the switch tracks. I have cleaned the wheels and wiped down the track with no change in the arcing.
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  • From: Watkinsville, GA
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Posted by Roger Bielen on Sunday, August 27, 2006 9:39 AM
It may not be the car/engine.  If the switches are the non-derailing type, ala Lionel, it may be with the switch.  Try wiping down the rails with GooGone, alcohol, or other.
Roger B.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 27, 2006 10:11 AM
they are lionel non derailing. is the arcing normal with these?
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 27, 2006 3:27 PM
I haven't used Rail Zip myself, but what I have heard about it is not good!  Apparently, on some types of track it will actually eat into the rails.  I heard about one person whose trains weren't running good on his layout.  He kept using lots of this stuff, thinking his track was dirty.  It turned out that his using Rail Zip on the track was the problem and he had to relay new track on his whole layout.  There are other brands of track cleaner of course, though.  Like I say, I haven't used this stuff myself.  Perhaps others on here have had experience with it and can confirm or deny the bad things I heard about it.
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:43 PM
I've used Rail-Zip on rails in other scales (brass and nickel silver in Z, N, and HO) without any adverse effects, but have never tried it on tubular or other O gauge track, which I generally clean with LGB smoke/cleaning fluid or alcohol.  I can't imagine Rail-Zip, which has been around for years, would cause problems with any type of track, but can't say that for certain.  I've just never heard or read about any problems with the product, and haven't had any problems myself.

I'm looking at the label on a bottle of the stuff right now, and it states "restores electrical conductivity; penetrates existing corrosion; retards rate of corrosion; safe for plastics; lasts 8-12 weeks."  And on the back label: "Safe--no alcohol, solvents, acids; concentrated chemistry, fantastic economy."

To use it, you simply apply a thin coat over the entire area (track) to be treated with a scrap of clean cloth (without rubbing); allow it to work overnight; then wipe off with a clean, soft cloth moistened with water (yes, water).



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Posted by chuck on Sunday, August 27, 2006 4:56 PM
Rail Zip is an oxidation barrier that is conductive.  It won't do any harm but I don't know how much of an improvement you will see given that tin plated track will form tin oxide which is pretty conductive though slightly greasy in feel.  I believe tin oxide is a little better that ns oxide in electrical conductivity.  

Also, as Allan pointed out, it's a two step procedure, sort of a "wax on/wax off" process so I don't know that a standard claning car will do well applying it.
When everything else fails, play dead
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 27, 2006 10:05 PM
thanks for all the replys, very helpful. I will give it a try.
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Posted by phillyreading on Monday, August 28, 2006 6:48 AM

Sounds like you are using Lionel 027 switches, they arc a whole lot, have not found a cure but it don't hurt the 027 switches other than cleaning the place where it arcs.

Lee

Interested in southest Pennsylvania railroads; Reading & Northern, Reading Company, Reading Lines, Philadelphia & Reading.

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